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Clutch rattle.... DRIVING ME NUTS

Yep and thats why cat clutches are much quieter. Tolerances are much tighter. Rode with guys driving 17 cats this weekend over 4000 miles and still quiet.

Other than the cat belt... What belt do they run?... I'm thinking the xs is good but pulls Rpms down some... Which xs?
 

Two guys I was with on weekend are still on original belts. Couple other guys I know are running the ultimax 827 with great results.

Xs825 on the sidewinder is working good. I'm also running this belt on my STMs and I'm at 1200 miles on it and it looks new with very little belt dust compared to the 8dn and 8jp.
 
How hard is it to run Cat clutches ? I can careless if they are a few mph slower if they have better belt life, don't hear much about King Cat blowing belts .
 
Go through some of my recent posts, I discuss this problem. Have your dealer install spider shims part #8BW-17654-20-00
Also, the spider buttons with the 0-ring behind them are known to start turning and wearing prematurely. Have your dealer check those also.
The spider slides need to be kept snug where they slide in the sheave to keep the noise to a minimum.
Thanks
 
Go through some of my recent posts, I discuss this problem. Have your dealer install spider shims part #8BW-17654-20-00
Also, the spider buttons with the 0-ring behind them are known to start turning and wearing prematurely. Have your dealer check those also.
The spider slides need to be kept snug where they slide in the sheave to keep the noise to a minimum.

That part checks out to be a sheave spacer from older models??????
 
I pretty much have fix the issue mine is nice and quiet now I’ll take a picture and post it later today It’s really a simple fix
Hey perhaps I missed it but did you describe your fix with photos yet. My apologies if you have and I missed it.
Thanks,
Ned
 
I pretty much have fix the issue mine is nice and quiet now I’ll take a picture and post it later today It’s really a simple fix

Any updates on your fix?
 
Lund and others in the MTX section seems to have confirmed its the stub shaft and crankshaft splines hammering together. The 630 loctite helps for a few hundred or more miles but comes back. I posed the question of drilling and tapping a small hole in the stub shaft and locking it down to the crankshaft spline with a Allen set screw to help eliminate any chance of movement. Without seeing one, not sure its possible.
 
I guess I don't understand the big deal about the rattle. Yes, I've never owned a sled that had this much "rattle" at idle, but I've also never owned a sled that had as much smooth power as this one. This is taking into account my previous well built tuned up 1100 turbo. If this "rattle" is inherent to this motor, then continue to sign me up for a noisey idle because this motor rocks.
 
Has anyone tried sending the primary out to be balanced? I know the clutch rattle is caused by the space between the splines on the stub shaft, causing a clutch rattle.. The shaft itself does not make the noise. The noise is gone when starting the sled with no clutch. Maybe a balance will help.
I would be very hesitant about locking the stub shaft and crank shaft together, they are linked together with the splines FOR A REASON. If they wanted the clutch mounted to the end of the crank, they would have done it and saved the trouble of an extra shaft.
 
Does anyone notice a difference in noise using a 911 cover? I swear it changed the tone a little on mine. I seem to remember some Primaries having a thick piece of rubber on them. Maybe Doo? That may be a route to take.
 


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