Getting rid of the roll over valve

[SnoWarrior]

I had mine ice up pretty bad. Was up in Quebec for 7 days really cold, minus 20 F. Actually had solid ice covering the hole in the running board under my right toe.
Lots of snow dust and a few runs in powder. Checked a few times and the hose had ice built up around it, and almost closed off.
I just did what theewarrior did and re-routed the hose to the chain case.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I had mine ice up pretty bad. Was up in Quebec for 7 days really cold, minus 20 F. Actually had solid ice covering the hole in the running board under my right toe.
Lots of snow dust and a few runs in powder. Checked a few times and the hose had ice built up around it, and almost closed off.
I just did what theewarrior did and re-routed the hose to the chain case.

View attachment 137532

I was thinking exact same spot....keeping it out of the snowstream and in where its warm. It will drip out of that hole where you tighten the bottom screw for chaincase.

Also cutting the end on a angled cut helps, making the opening elongated and larger, harder to freeze.

Only reason I held off on that spot as its now tough to know if your chaincase is leaking as that area will always have oil laying in it.

Dan

 

[jaydaniels]

I know it’s likely already been discussed but 25 pgs is a lot off scrolling lol. What’s the issue with just removing or bypassing the valve and retaining the stock plumbing which vents back to the intake? Apexes and Nytros all vented back to the intake I believe. They ran thousands of miles with no issues.

 

[XP123]

I know it’s likely already been discussed but 25 pgs is a lot off scrolling lol. What’s the issue with just removing or bypassing the valve and retaining the stock plumbing which vents back to the intake? Apexes and Nytros all vented back to the intake I believe. They ran thousands of miles with no issues.

I think there are a few who are doing this and it's probably a very good option.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I know it’s likely already been discussed but 25 pgs is a lot off scrolling lol. What’s the issue with just removing or bypassing the valve and retaining the stock plumbing which vents back to the intake? Apexes and Nytros all vented back to the intake I believe. They ran thousands of miles with no issues.

You mean sending all the vapors back into intake? Most of us dont want that. It will fill up the charge tubes and intercooler and need to be drained or performance will go down.

 

[jaydaniels]

You mean sending all the vapors back into intake? Most of us dont want that. It will fill up the charge tubes and intercooler and need to be drained or performance will go down.

Ok I didn’t realize there was that much oil coming out. My apex and Nytro didn’t seem to accumulate any oil in the air box so figured these would be similar.

 

[SnoWarrior]

Ok I didn’t realize there was that much oil coming out. My apex and Nytro didn’t seem to accumulate any oil in the air box so figured these would be similar.

Similar, but no turbo to ingest the residue.

 

[1st.yammy]

I just added this 5 psi pressure relief in the by-pass hose in case it freezes over at the end of the hose.

 

[**sj**]

I just added this 5 psi pressure relief in the by-pass hose in case it freezes over at the end of the hose. View attachment 137542

Nice idea but couldn't that relief valve freeze also?

 

[1st.yammy]

Anything is possible. It was just thought i had and Hopfully it's not needed but I figured I'd just throw it in there and see what happens.

 

[jonlafon1]

Im sure one could route the hose to the bellypan below engine, and just let it drip into the pan, it surely would not freeze there but would be messy id think.

I just keep eye on mine and its never froze up, can always just tap on it to break off any ice on end.....likely a combination of deeper power and not enough speed to make heat in the vapors. Starting and stopping alot allowing ice to build up..... Also the routing is important, I have mine tight to oil tank so its warm area....

Maybe Hasselhoff should post pics.

i ran it this way for hundreds of miles. Actually not a lot of residue in the belly pan area at all. I guess my ONLY concern was the oil going somewhere if tipped. I have since ran my hose to under foot right side. I do not run a loop. I understand the risk but I just don't off trail and in 3500 miles have never come close to tipping. Honestly in super cold temps running it to the under belly pan area isbest IMO. I just feel your odds are better with it under foot if tipped. But honestly the sled HAS two overflow hoses going into under belly pan area. It's the logical place in my mind. Especially with a loop in place. My 2 cents

 

[ROCKERDAN]

A 1 inch vertical slit a few inches upward is best solution if you somehow got a frozen tip.....

I think if you cut the end so it's angled and rearward its very hard for it to freeze, as mine has not had issue.

 

[POWERHAULIC]

A 1 inch vertical slit a few inches upward is best solution if you somehow got a frozen tip.....

I think if you cut the end so it's angled and rearward its very hard for it to freeze, as mine has not had issue.

The angle cut works perfect. Did this for years on carb vent tubes to prevent icing.

 

[SUC_doo]

Why can't you use remove the innards of the valve so it won't work =, now acting like an apex with no roll over valve? .....This has so many pages now its crazy,,,,,So we all have this hose coming out at the bottom of our sleds? Wat did you do with yours dan

A 1 inch vertical slit a few inches upward is best solution if you somehow got a frozen tip.....

I think if you cut the end so it's angled and rearward its very hard for it to freeze, as mine has not had issue.

 

[theewarrior]

Half the reason I think most are removing the valve is to eliminate the sludge people are getting built up in the intercooler