Getting rid of the roll over valve

[XP123]

I don't care about the sludge. I care about the oil tank seal blowing. I think having the hose hang down below the running boards in really cold snowy conditions is asking for trouble. Just like when you have a strap from your saddlebags hanging down and you end up with a baseball size chunk of ice on the end of it.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I did a few changed to mine today.....

I cut even more angle into my hose end, its now angled back more then before so snowdust wont build there as easily. I also cut a slit a few inches upward, where its warm. The sit does not allow any vapor out as its cut thin with razor, but will allow it out if end happened to freeze, so its just a failsafe.

I also re routed the hose to go under the wire loom, and its zip tied side by side now, as the side panel was pushing the wire loom closer to heat shield when closed, so now it has more space this way.

I dont think this will be an issue, as I never had it freeze before, but just precautionary.

Also just wanted to say, I removed my clamp and hose from tank connection, and there was ICE right there! It was not sealed over but some ice. So the vapors freeze up inside the hose even at hot areas, but when I fired it up could see it blow out. I can see why the valve would freeze for sure. Bizzare how much vapor come out of this hose and how it freezes. Sure seems like the oil on these sleds must get alot of water in it quickly.

Few pics....

Dan

 

[Sevey]

There does seem to be a lot of moisture. This cant be any different from the 1049's or 998 apex engine in the past. We just never saw it.

My nytro always snorts oil back in the air intake and if you look at it after a run there is some evidence of moisture. Just never paid attention to how much.
MS

 

[ROCKERDAN]

There does seem to be a lot of moisture. This cant be any different from the 1049's or 998 apex engine in the past. We just never saw it.

My nytro always snorts oil back in the air intake and if you look at it after a run there is some evidence of moisture. Just never paid attention to how much.
MS

Makes me wonder how my 4tec was...the oil tank on the doo is attached to backside of engine, and not too sure how that all gets recirculated on that sled. But I know the oil looked clean on that engine for a long time.

Where as my Winder at only 500 miles the oil looked black as hell and the next morning at minus 25 in garage had ICE skin on top of the full oil pan that I had drained the night before. I thought maybe I had just dripped some melted snow into pan, but I actually now think there is a fair amt of water in the oil due to vapors.

Dan

 

[SUC_doo]

Its just a vent....with very minimal pressure from the oil tank,,,, its not like the engine is pressurizing it. Remove the Innards from the valve eliminate the roll over valve and no mor moil is going to go in the airbox then it was stock?

 

[GlennM]

Its just a vent....with very minimal pressure from the oil tank,,,, its not like the engine is pressurizing it. Remove the Innards from the valve eliminate the roll over valve and no mor moil is going to go in the airbox then it was stock?

What? [emoji51][emoji23]

Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk

 

[XP123]

That's how I ran mine Dan. When I first put the hose over top it was pushing down on the fuel line and the hood rubbed on it so I went under the wire loom instead.

I also did not wire tie it to the fuel line. There is a loop on the upper frame above the fuel line and that's where I tied it. I also cut the hose the exact same place you did. I hope we are good now.

 

[SUC_doo]

What? [emoji51][emoji23]

Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk

Why run this line? Why not just take the spring out of the roll over valve making it no longer functional

 

[jaydaniels]

Why run this line? Why not just take the spring out of the roll over valve making it no longer functional

You can likely do this and eliminate the seal blowing out issue but it doesn’t eliminate the oil mist going back into the intake which ends up going through the Turbo and inter cooler. How much of an issue is debateable but I’ve seen some pictures of guys actually draining oil from their inter cooler. Basically there are 2 seperating issues here and it’s personal preferace on how you solve it

 

[34pontiac]

Stuff that comes out of my hose.

 

[XP123]

I did a few changed to mine today.....

I cut even more angle into my hose end, its now angled back more then before so snowdust wont build there as easily. I also cut a slit a few inches upward, where its warm. The sit does not allow any vapor out as its cut thin with razor, but will allow it out if end happened to freeze, so its just a failsafe.

I also re routed the hose to go under the wire loom, and its zip tied side by side now, as the side panel was pushing the wire loom closer to heat shield when closed, so now it has more space this way.

I dont think this will be an issue, as I never had it freeze before, but just precautionary.

Also just wanted to say, I removed my clamp and hose from tank connection, and there was ICE right there! It was not sealed over but some ice. So the vapors freeze up inside the hose even at hot areas, but when I fired it up could see it blow out. I can see why the valve would freeze for sure. Bizzare how much vapor come out of this hose and how it freezes. Sure seems like the oil on these sleds must get alot of water in it quickly.

Few pics....

Dan


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Do you think that the moisture and gunk can flow down the hose and freeze at the oil tank where the hose is connected? Maybe a 3/4 hose would be better there instead of the 1/2 inch we are using. I'm sure I'm over analyzing this whole thing but I'm planning a couple week long trips up north and I don't want to deal with this crap while I'm touring. I never ever even thought about this on my Apex - Nytro or 1200 Doo but now it just consumes me.

 

[Sevey]

Do you think that the moisture and gunk can flow down the hose and freeze at the oil tank where the hose is connected? Maybe a 3/4 hose would be better there instead of the 1/2 inch we are using. I'm sure I'm over analyzing this whole thing but I'm planning a couple week long trips up north and I don't want to deal with this crap while I'm touring. I never ever even thought about this on my Apex - Nytro or 1200 Doo but now it just consumes me.

Its not really an issue on the Nytro, Apex or 1200. They are NA, so no intercooler for oil and moisture to pool in. Watching the nytro it vents its fair share of moisture into the air box for recirculation - so its not perfect. They also have real oil tanks that can structurally withstand any back pressure - not an oil tank missing an entire side cheaply 'glued' to the chaincase.

Would still be interested if someone would fabricate a contained tank to match the mounting holes on the cat, and this problem would go away.
MS

 

[KnappAttack]

Do you think that the moisture and gunk can flow down the hose and freeze at the oil tank where the hose is connected? Maybe a 3/4 hose would be better there instead of the 1/2 inch we are using. I'm sure I'm over analyzing this whole thing but I'm planning a couple week long trips up north and I don't want to deal with this crap while I'm touring. I never ever even thought about this on my Apex - Nytro or 1200 Doo but now it just consumes me.

If anything, the 1/2" hose flows volume thru it faster and should keep it clear. That picture above from 34 Pontiac with the emulsified foam in it, is what comes out of my buddies new sled with low miles on it and drips on the floor overnight, but I don't get anything like that at all coming from mine while sitting or riding. I'm thinking that lower mile sleds may have a bit more blowby coming out of them perhaps, but who knows, It could also be from the brand of oil being used too maybe.

You see the angle cut Dan posted earlier, that is also how mine is with the angle to the back. I see he also posted a pic on cutting the slit in the hose for a pressure relief should the end freeze up. This is the best that one can do to try and prevent any issues. IMO the base are covered like this.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Do you think that the moisture and gunk can flow down the hose and freeze at the oil tank where the hose is connected? Maybe a 3/4 hose would be better there instead of the 1/2 inch we are using. I'm sure I'm over analyzing this whole thing but I'm planning a couple week long trips up north and I don't want to deal with this crap while I'm touring. I never ever even thought about this on my Apex - Nytro or 1200 Doo but now it just consumes me.

Yeah Joe we are all overthinking this...Knapp has the most miles on sleds with similar setups. Im sure anything is possible where a certain condition/riding style can get enough snowdust into the tip, but likely rare.

I had a angled cut before, but made it even larger now, but the ice hanging off tip always would fall right off. Powder could be alot different and so I would check it more often if riding off trail, and the slit higher up should allow pressure to blow out if need be. I dont think many mt type powder riders are even doing this mod anyway.

I dont see the entire tube ever freezing solid....but when cold in AM there is some ice around outer edges within the tube, and when I started mine I could see them blow out tube onto my floor....

Yeah more room for sure with re-route under the loom and up, I also zip tied to the fuel tank tab which is perfect.

In the end, the idea is great from Mike and likely stopped many of us from oil leaks thru the poorly designed oil tank seal. If the tank was solid and had nowhere to push out, then the PRESSURE would eventually push out any ice. But instead the pressure pushes the silicone in this bad design.

Best of all, NO crap vapors/moisture being recycled back thru engine, filling charge tubes ect. To me that is the bigger point many are not understanding.

Dan

 

[SUC_doo]

Yeah Joe we are all overthinking this...Knapp has the most miles on sleds with similar setups. Im sure anything is possible where a certain condition/riding style can get enough snowdust into the tip, but likely rare.

I had a angled cut before, but made it even larger now, but the ice hanging off tip always would fall right off. Powder could be alot different and so I would check it more often if riding off trail, and the slit higher up should allow pressure to blow out if need be. I dont think many mt type powder riders are even doing this mod anyway.

I dont see the entire tube ever freezing solid....but when cold in AM there is some ice around outer edges within the tube, and when I started mine I could see them blow out tube onto my floor....

Yeah more room for sure with re-route under the loom and up, I also zip tied to the fuel tank tab which is perfect.

In the end, the idea is great from Mike and likely stopped many of us from oil leaks thru the poorly designed oil tank seal. If the tank was solid and had nowhere to push out, then the PRESSURE would eventually push out any ice. But instead the pressure pushes the silicone in this bad design.

Best of all, NO crap vapors/moisture being recycled back thru engine, filling charge tubes ect. To me that is the bigger point many are not understanding.

Dan

I just dont understand how any substantial amount of vapour or oil is getting to the turbo through a line that goes to the oil tank and isn't under pressure. How is this even blow by? its just a vent?