Getting rid of the roll over valve

[XP123]

Joe, ever since shag the Hoff man chimed in on his frozen hose i have been checking mine like a fat kid waiting for the ice cream truck! Every time i reach down i get a finger full of oil at the end of the hose. Today of all days i should have froze up due to the complete powder blizzard behind me while i rode, with the scratchers still down mind you, in a foot of new powder. I sure as hell wouldn't want that crap in the intake.

Man o man I miss the ice cream truck!!

I checked mine today and there was nothing there. I'm heading to Quebec next week for 7 days and I'm counting on this roll over valve mod to make my trip trouble free as far as oil tanks leaking. I'm hoping I'm right about this.

 

[fatchance]

Man o man I miss the ice cream truck!!

I checked mine today and there was nothing there. I'm heading to Quebec next week for 7 days and I'm counting on this roll over valve mod to make my trip trouble free as far as oil tanks leaking. I'm hoping I'm right about this.

Just cut the end of the hose at an angle so it"s about a 3 inch cut and put the relief slit in the hose up by the heat of the exhaust. no worries. Just keep checking the oil daily because i think we will see a little more pushed out than if there was pressure building.

 

[POWERHAULIC]

IMHO The condensation you all are finding in the end of you OPEN hoses comes from it being OPEN in cool air.
Those who are venting in the belly prob have next to no milkshake in the hose ends as it is venting in warmer air.

I have chosen to install a tee where the valve was and use a dog leg on the bottom of the tee as a liquid trap.

 

[SUC_doo]

So they did have issues?!?

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one 5000 miles before seal blew. Lots of guys on here will never even see that many miles. No problems since took the guts out of the roll-over valve making it not function but left the hose stock. I was just saying 6000 miles and 11000 miles with no performance issues with the hose stock.

 

[RogerThat]

I've been following the post from the beginning. I had the rollover valve freeze at 700km after 3 days of riding sub -25C days. Had it resealed by the dealer and did the rollover bipass mod see pics. After 3 days of riding 1500km in close to -40C before adding windchill up in Hearst I pulled it apart today and found oil all over including the hose. The hose clamp was tight and no tears in the 5/8 hose. I called a buddy who rode the same weekend and did the same mod and he's got oil too. Possible solutions - Am I looking at rerouting the hose as it might be restricted by the side panel and adding the additional slit I'm reading about? I thought I'd be done with this by now. But the story continues. [emoji23]

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[cannondale27]

I know this sounds nuts but there may be a point at certain temps and conditions where underhood heat and closing off vents might be your friend. Think about it. Trucks and anything that moves in cold weather blocks radiator which is the major source of air. Srx had vent block offs. Never used them here but something to consider with all the complex systems underhood. Maybe guys with trouble take note of temp and conditions so others would know when to get the Duct Tape out.

 

[ryama]

Damm it....I have done mine exactly the same. Going out to the garage as soon as I finish this post and doing the slit.

 

[actionjack]

Several pages back were pictures of insulating the roll over valve. That may be the best solution. Clearly the valve is only going to freeze over night after condensation builds up while riding. If insulated maybe enough of the the built up heat will keep it from freezing.

 

[actionjack]

I did clean a little oil out of the intake yesterday.

 

[GlennM]

I did clean a little oil out of the intake yesterday. View attachment 137801

I did mine twice and both times there was a lot more oil and muck than yours

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[sledheadgeorge]

Wow. What a write up.
Many good points but the seal can be fixed, ROV can be replaced with a better unit that works regardless of temperature, or removed but venting into the charge tube is nasty. Don't Know If The SW has a variable vain turbo but this oil and moisture that's sent into the charge tube can and will cause turbo issues down the road. I would definitely disconnect that tube and plug up the nipple.

 

[GlennM]

Wow. What a write up.
Many good points but the seal can be fixed, ROV can be replaced with a better unit that works regardless of temperature, or removed but venting into the charge tube is nasty. Don't Know If The SW has a variable vain turbo but this oil and moisture that's sent into the charge tube can and will cause turbo issues down the road. I would definitely disconnect that tube and plug up the nipple.

Can you be more specific ie, seal, better rov?
Where does the oil and muck go if you disconnect that hose going into the charge tube?

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[NYTurbo]

In my opinion it' not the roll over valve freezing it's the condensation in the hose before the valve.

 

[sledheadgeorge]

Can you be more specific ie, seal, better rov?
Where does the oil and muck go if you disconnect that hose going into the charge tube?

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Extend the tube down to drain that "muck" away from your intake.

 

[stevewithOCD]

In my opinion it' not the roll over valve freezing it's the condensation in the hose before the valve.

My valve was stuck from being "gummy" in the summer. I had a summer leak. Anything can cause this valve to get stuck & blow out the oil seal.
Also the first time i took my air cleaner off, there was a puddle of oil in the tube like ACTIONJACK's picture.
So no matter what, i don't want the valve. I'll take my chance on a 5/8ths hose.