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Getting rid of the roll over valve

How hard is it to pull the IC? Something i may look into tomorrow
5 minutes. Remove front bumper hoop and filler panel right in front of fuse block. Remove boost tubes. Remove the two clips holding IC in at the bottom of IC. Lift IC out. 5 minutes to remove.
If you've never had it out, my bet is there is allot of goo in bottom!
 

Anyone think of adding a big drain with external access to very bottom of I.C. ? Could flush it in sled then. Or what about adding a second catch can with drain a guy could drain every few rides? Sorry but that open hose to ground and air just seems so Hack and would never work for me in a rollover which is very nice to do on occasion.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-85465?rrec=true
 
Funny you mention this Steve! I just did this "Hack" lol on the daughter's Viper. Blew a bunch of oil in the airbox a couple weeks ago when the ball in the canister was frozen and leaked out the 2 holes in the bottom and made a mess of the inside belly. Leaked out the steering bellows and all over the place. Just looked awful.

IMG_0286.jpg IMG_2765.jpg IMG_2766.jpg
 
Funny you mention this Steve! I just did this "Hack" lol on the daughter's Viper. Blew a bunch of oil in the airbox a couple weeks ago when the ball in the canister was frozen and leaked out the 2 holes in the bottom and made a mess of the inside belly. Leaked out the steering bellows and all over the place. Just looked awful.

View attachment 147665 View attachment 147666 View attachment 147667
I know I know. But if you have ever been in position of being minutes ahead of your Doo buddies and dicking around decide to burn down a berm on trail and end up rolling sled but cannot get it back up before the Doo buddies come upon you and see a huge oil spill and your frustration you will know what I feel because I have been there.
 
I don't have any technical details on this yet or whether there will be a way to retrofit it but here's a pic of the electrically heated rollover valve on a 2020 winder. Also note the fitting on the inlet to the valve appears to have a shoulder now which may prevent the fitting from moving in and out like the current ones seem to do.
View attachment 147603

Good job Yamaha!
 
So like I’ve mentioned before. Long time member. Hardly ever post. I did a rant not long ago on my disappointment with Yamaha regarding 2020 sleds. However I was going to post a more up beat response since I just bought a 2018 Sidewinder LTX SE w/ 500 miles and full YES until 2023. I Took it on a trip 2 weeks ago and did about 500 miles in 2 days before our season ended pretty much here in Maine. My impressions of the Sidewinder. WOW. Great handling. Crazy power. Love it... until I put it in the garage and notice the other day a puddle of oil on the ground. Check and find the same issue you guys have been talking about for the last 41 pages that I’ve been reading. Not sure if the ROV froze causing excess pressure to blow the seal out of the tank or just a poor sealant of the tank from the factory. I’ve read all your fixes. I’m with the many that did state here that as much as we pay for these sleds we shouldn’t be the ones coming up with the solutions. Yamaha should be. Called my old dealer in NY this morning to pick his brain since he knows these machines inside and out. Said take the sled to my dealer here in Maine to have the oil tank resealed. It happens. He doesn’t expect Yamaha to voluntarily provide a solution to the ROV freeze issue and if you want the heated one that the 2020’s have you likely can buy it and adapt it but don’t expect Yamaha to give us those as a solution. Disappointed now. More so because I saddlebag for a week in Quebec every year and never once an issue with the Apex. Now I have to worry my oil tank will fail during my 1000-1500 mile week.
I was thinking. The oil fill cap is just that on these machines. It’s not like it has a dipstick. Wouldn’t drilling a very small hole in the top of the oil fill cap create an escape for any pressure from a stuck ROV? It’s not like the oil is anywhere close to the top of the tank so it’s not going to leak out.
Or how about someone fabricating a pcv type check valve as the oil fill cap and the ball valve relieves the pressure?
Any thoughts on that? Or do you think the PCV valve will freeze as well? I sure would love a solution. I’d even consider a 4 sided sealed tank if someone made one just for piece of mind. I really don’t want to hack the original plumbing up especially being under warranty.
 
I think Yamaha put a buliton out telling dealers to cut a 1” slit in the hose between the tank and rov. It will vent if the rov sticks and builds pressure for any reason. Previous Yamaha four strokes had this slit in the crank vent hose going in to the air box in case it froze in extreame cold conditions.
 
I heard about this from another reliable source..
Anybody here a dealer or know one to confirm ?
 
Port Yamaha! Pretty sure that’s who told me that any way.
 
So like I’ve mentioned before. Long time member. Hardly ever post. I did a rant not long ago on my disappointment with Yamaha regarding 2020 sleds. However I was going to post a more up beat response since I just bought a 2018 Sidewinder LTX SE w/ 500 miles and full YES until 2023. I Took it on a trip 2 weeks ago and did about 500 miles in 2 days before our season ended pretty much here in Maine. My impressions of the Sidewinder. WOW. Great handling. Crazy power. Love it... until I put it in the garage and notice the other day a puddle of oil on the ground. Check and find the same issue you guys have been talking about for the last 41 pages that I’ve been reading. Not sure if the ROV froze causing excess pressure to blow the seal out of the tank or just a poor sealant of the tank from the factory. I’ve read all your fixes. I’m with the many that did state here that as much as we pay for these sleds we shouldn’t be the ones coming up with the solutions. Yamaha should be. Called my old dealer in NY this morning to pick his brain since he knows these machines inside and out. Said take the sled to my dealer here in Maine to have the oil tank resealed. It happens. He doesn’t expect Yamaha to voluntarily provide a solution to the ROV freeze issue and if you want the heated one that the 2020’s have you likely can buy it and adapt it but don’t expect Yamaha to give us those as a solution. Disappointed now. More so because I saddlebag for a week in Quebec every year and never once an issue with the Apex. Now I have to worry my oil tank will fail during my 1000-1500 mile week.
I was thinking. The oil fill cap is just that on these machines. It’s not like it has a dipstick. Wouldn’t drilling a very small hole in the top of the oil fill cap create an escape for any pressure from a stuck ROV? It’s not like the oil is anywhere close to the top of the tank so it’s not going to leak out.
Or how about someone fabricating a pcv type check valve as the oil fill cap and the ball valve relieves the pressure?
Any thoughts on that? Or do you think the PCV valve will freeze as well? I sure would love a solution. I’d even consider a 4 sided sealed tank if someone made one just for piece of mind. I really don’t want to hack the original plumbing up especially being under warranty.

Jagged Customs was looking into designing a real 'self' contained tank but I have not seen or heard from them. They have made tanks for the Nytro and Apex.

Drilling a small hole in the cap may work, but my fear is that moisture may collect there and freeze and you may be no further ahead. Possibly oil residue may reside there and block as well. The solution is making a larger hole which becomes problematic in itself.

I bypassed the ROV since day one. I can say watching the vent line this season a fair bit of moisture moves through that line. In the morning on start up, you can see ice come out the bottom that coated the inside of the line. No big deal because as the sled heats up all the moisture will be thawed out of the line. Also during operation, usually in the first hour of the day, the line is pulsing visible moisture vapour out of it. I can see how the ROV would fill with moisture laden goo and freeze over night.
MS
 
I don’t think that the case in this situation.
May not have been Vmaxkids problem but it sounds like he was looking for answers to prevent freeze up. I think a poor seal from the factory caused most of the failures?
 
May not have been Vmaxkids problem but it sounds like he was looking for answers to prevent freeze up. I think a poor seal from the factory caused most of the failures?
Pretty sure MrSled meant that Port probably didnt say that there was a Yamaha Bulletin to cut a slit in the line. I agree. Have not seen a bulletin saying that either.
 


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