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Getting rid of the roll over valve

Not sure. I blocked my rov and put the hose on the tank with the loop up and back down and also put a slit in the hose because I heard of a case where the hose like I have froze up also. As long as I keep it shiney side up I think it will work.
 

Pretty sure MrSled meant that Port probably didnt say that there was a Yamaha Bulletin to cut a slit in the line. I agree. Have not seen a bulletin saying that either.

Thats exactly what I meant, sorry. You cant slit the stock version of a sideiwnder, there is more to it.
 
This is what I’ve done to get rid of the problematic valve. Just a hardware store 5/8" ID hose wrapped with foil heat tape, looped it up and over down to under the running board. Let bottom hang and inch or two below the board. You can see how much blowby you have also.

I plugged the line where the stock hose went into the turbo intake with a rubber 3/8" ID cap stretched over the intake turbo tube nipple and clamped.

Now the intake is not getting that blow-by exhaust and no worry of the supposed factory "roll over" valve sticking shut and blowing out the oil tank seal again.

It worked fine on my turbo 1200 Doos for years this exact same way.

I was going to install a 1200 roll over valve but haven’t yet as the space to do so is pretty limited. It’s been over 20 years since I’ve rolled any machine and am not to worried about it not having a valve, for now anyway.

Not telling anyone to get rid of it, but I’m not going to have my oil tank seal blown out on a trip. I’ve already sealed it once as it was leaking.

View attachment 135444


View attachment 135445


This is a real roll over valve from a 1200 Rotax I had planed to use, but space is tight and I may or may not put it in down the road. I'm not to worried about rolling over anyway. The old Suzuki 1100 turbo never had a roll over valve either...

View attachment 135446
Hi where do I get the plug for the engine side and what does it look like?
 
Just a rubber plug that fits the nipple where that hose was attached. Auto parts store, McMaster-Carr, etc.
3
 
Anyone have the hose freeze up? My bypass hose gets a lot of moisture in it. It has been very cold. after an hour long stop I will have ice at the bottom of the hose, and after a days ride I park the sled in a heated garage and in the morning there will be a 1 to 3 inch white milky spot on the concrete beneath my bypass hose. I am concerned that with a two or three day trip (no warm garage time) that the hose will totally freeze and will not vent and cause the so called TANK to leak.... again. Also, concerned I may get some condensation in my oil tank. At least I don't have oil in my air cleaner and dripping on the clutch anymore.

Thanks
 
Some guys are cutting a slit in the house about an inch from the bottom to help Incase the bottom freezes up
 
Anyone have the hose freeze up? My bypass hose gets a lot of moisture in it. It has been very cold. after an hour long stop I will have ice at the bottom of the hose, and after a days ride I park the sled in a heated garage and in the morning there will be a 1 to 3 inch white milky spot on the concrete beneath my bypass hose. I am concerned that with a two or three day trip (no warm garage time) that the hose will totally freeze and will not vent and cause the so called TANK to leak.... again. Also, concerned I may get some condensation in my oil tank. At least I don't have oil in my air cleaner and dripping on the clutch anymore.

Thanks

it is common for moisture to form around in the inside of the hose and freeze. Upon start up, as the engine warms I have seen slivers of ice deposit at the bottom of the hose. I would argue that the likelihood of the entire hose freezing shut is slim to none. Don’t forget once the sled is started, everything is heating up - engine, oil, oil tank, exhaust- so any ice will soon be moisture. Lots of heat in the right side of the sled

as for moisture goo- totally normal. That’s the result of oil in the moist air being vented.

I have vented my sled since new and spent weeks in northern pq with no issue in -20 and -30 C. If anything the hose helps evacuate the moisture from the oil and oil tank way more efficiently, than plumbing it back into the intake system.
Ms
 
Right on!

Don’t let ice builup at the end,,,
For safety, i have 4,5 olfa slice in that hose:)
8D01DD15-15A7-453E-BE04-BC2A874159A6.jpeg
Some guys are cutting a slit in the house about an inch from the bottom to help Incase the bottom freezes up
 
In all the years since I've done this venting on this sled, I've never had it freeze up. I'm actually running my old original hardware store clear reinforced hose

There are some things I've learned along the way however.

1. Heater hose is not designed for oil and can't be used. It turns into a oily gooey mess of a hose.
2. 1/2" hose is more prone to freezing or attempting to freeze vs. a 5/8" hose.
3. The hose IMO needs a rearward angle cut into the bottom of it so if running in deep snow the snow makes no attempt to enter the hose.
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I may have a heater hose because it is red, it is 5/8 and says all purpose but seems to be holding up ok. ... so far.
Hi Mike, cold enough in Welch these days.
 
I've bitched to my dealer and got the newer heated rov free of charge, very simple install and work's great
 
I've bitched to my dealer and got the newer heated rov free of charge, very simple install and work's great


Works until it doesn't, just like what happened to Muskrat.

I've been removing the heated valves on machines with them and bypassing them too.
 
I've bitched to my dealer and got the newer heated rov free of charge, very simple install and work's great

It still vents oil to the intake.
I'll try to send a pic of the intercooler i just cleaned out. It had a couple ounces of oil in it.
 


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