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Getting rid of the roll over valve


After tank reseal yes
Haven’t warmed it up now just noticed it’s down a bit as it sits in the garage
 
I've seen oil usage differences in various brands of different oil myself, but the ROV removal should make no difference in oil consumption at all.
 
Likely left with it a bit over full
Now just below 1/2 of the two red lines
Answer to your first question is 'no'. If anything, because there is zero pressure in oil tank to push oil anywhere, there could be less consumption but there really shouldn't be any anyway.
Angle sled is sitting at affects how oil level looks more than you'd think. Also, oil level goes up reference to those red lines as sled heats up cuz oil heats up and expands. Which means, oil level goes down as sled cools. Also, oil level is affected by very short run sessions, meaning if you fire it up and unload it or load it, when you check oil level is may change compared to sled just sitting level in garage or trailer.
General consensus is to keep oil level somewhere in middle to even closer to bottom line, not topped up to top line. If you have it at top line cold, it will be over full when hot.
 
Your fine , run it and it should stay about where it is… Because you changed the oil, it took some in filter, some in the lines and what everyone else told you … SEND IT…. Lol
 
I have not seen a decrease in oil level since deleting. I only check the oil level with engine up to operating temp and letting it sit off for a few min.
 
just curious, what if you drilled a small hole in top of the filler plug... would it vent enough to stop seal poping if ROV freezes?? it wouldnt freez cuz the heat from header and muffler are right there. or put nipple and ran back to valve cover
 
Feedback from a different approach...

I took the ROV apart and drilled 4 small holes in the plunger and put it back together with a light coating of silicone. (It's just a pressed fit) This seemed to work well for the past couple of years until last weekend. After starting on a 4 degree morning I heard a pop and it was the ROV popping apart. Sooo. I have to assume the holes froze shut. I'm going to go back to full bypass. I did that initially, but that hose takes up some room by the wires and I have a lot going on there so I wanted to free that up. I do have the bypass from Travis, but I want to see others use it more before going that route. I worry about it freezing with such a small hole. (using the jet inline)
 
The reason why this has been a problem from the start is condensation. Point at which water vapor turns to moisture which forms that condensation which turns to ice and freezes either the line and or roll over metal value or both. The bypass that Knapp shared has worked for me ( Thank You Mike ) but Iam wondering if a insulated hose 5/8” inside diameter would help those still having a problem. Condensation only forms from hot and cold mixing so you can stop it two ways.. Air movement or dew point separation.. Don’t let the two meet with a insulated hose.. Its obvious that it freezes so stop it that way.
 
Noticed some film on the tail of the sled after a ride. Put about 400 miles on since deleting


Could be something else but just asking
 

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Film from the ROV delete? Your kidding right??

You think thats oil on your finger???

I'm just not even going to comment on what I think here and let it go as bad as I want to say something I'll regret and get kicked off......
 
Relax Mike

I have been seeing some oil droplets on the snow. Not sure if others have seen a mix of snow dust and snirt with oil droplets getting kicked up on the back.

I didn't see this before the delete but saw it after. It can be a variety of things but I figure I would ask.
 


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