Getting rid of the roll over valve

[stgdz]

Yeah it's been relatively stable.


I have realized over time, based on personal experience of oil drops, that even small amounts of oil can spread out a lot. Just figured I would ask.

 

[Kevin]

I figure any oil residue coming out of the hose will give me extra slide lube = more speed....lol

 

[1nc 2000]

I would rather have a small drop of oil in the snow than oiling down my intake system and sensors.
This is the main reason I did the roll over valve delete.

 

[Simplespeed]

Good to hear …. Send it Safe …. Lol

 

[Simplespeed]

I would rather have a small drop of oil in the snow than oiling down my intake system and sensors.
This is the main reason I did the roll over valve delete.G.

Agree

 

[STAIN]

has anyone been leaving the key in the "on" position before starting? This is supposed to heat the valve and get rid of any icing.

 

[1nc 2000]

Still dumps oil into airbox and drips on clutch.
Emissions only. Get rid of it.

 

[stgdz]

I would rather have a small drop of oil in the snow than oiling down my intake system and sensors.
This is the main reason I did the roll over valve delete.

Yeah that was a good realization for me. "That's not going into the air box now"

 

[Confused]

has anyone been leaving the key in the "on" position before starting? This is supposed to heat the valve and get rid of any icing.

In my case it wouldn't have mattered. Mine blew the BOP seal out WITH the engine temp at ~150F while warming up. Could be a faulty ROV heater. Either way I chose to bypass to eliminate another ruined trip.

 

[Kevin]

I also noticed that with this mod the exhaust stain on the lower panel is pretty well not happening

 

[f16_fixr]

This is what I’ve done to get rid of the problematic valve. Just a hardware store 5/8" ID hose wrapped with foil heat tape, looped it up and over down to under the running board. Let bottom hang and inch or two below the board. You can see how much blowby you have also.

I plugged the line where the stock hose went into the turbo intake with a rubber 3/8" ID cap stretched over the intake turbo tube nipple and clamped.

Now the intake is not getting that blow-by exhaust and no worry of the supposed factory "roll over" valve sticking shut and blowing out the oil tank seal again.

It worked fine on my turbo 1200 Doos for years this exact same way.

I was going to install a 1200 roll over valve but haven’t yet as the space to do so is pretty limited. It’s been over 20 years since I’ve rolled any machine and am not to worried about it not having a valve, for now anyway.

Not telling anyone to get rid of it, but I’m not going to have my oil tank seal blown out on a trip. I’ve already sealed it once as it was leaking.

View attachment 135444


View attachment 135445


This is a real roll over valve from a 1200 Rotax I had planed to use, but space is tight and I may or may not put it in down the road. I'm not to worried about rolling over anyway. The old Suzuki 1100 turbo never had a roll over valve either...

View attachment 135446

I want to do this mod. This should virtually stop all of the oil/condensation mixture I always have in my intake tube whenever I look down in behind my air filter, right? What about the breather hose that goes directly into the airbox? I'm not sure where that comes from exactly. Will that be eliminated too?

 

[KnappAttack]

I want to do this mod. This should virtually stop all of the oil/condensation mixture I always have in my intake tube whenever I look down in behind my air filter, right? What about the breather hose that goes directly into the airbox? I'm not sure where that comes from exactly. Will that be eliminated too?

It will eliminate the oil/condensation you see behind the air filter yes.

The other breather hose coming from the top of the valve cover stays put and is not an issue.

The only change I have made to my original design is to replace the clear hardware store hose, is to use 5/8" fuel or oil hose just this season. I did it because the end of my hardware store hose got burned and brittle from the exhaust heat.

Dont use heater hose or hose not designed for oil or fuel use. It will get gooey, soft and start to disintegrate.

 

[f16_fixr]

It will eliminate the oil/condensation you see behind the air filter yes.

The other breather hose coming from the top of the valve cover stays put and is not an issue.

The only change I have made to my original design is to replace the clear hardware store hose, is to use 5/8" fuel or oil hose just this season. I did it because the end of my hardware store hose got burned and brittle from the exhaust heat.

Dont use heater hose or hose not designed for oil or fuel use. It will get gooey, soft and start to disintegrate.

Awesome, thanks for the info! I'm in the middle of cracking open my chaincase cover (for the first time) to see what, if any, issues I've been reading about are taking place so thought I would do this other mod while I have everything apart.

 

[Sevey]

Awesome, thanks for the info! I'm in the middle of cracking open my chaincase cover (for the first time) to see what, if any, issues I've been reading about are taking place so thought I would do this other mod while I have everything apart.

Go to a Parker store or one that sells hydraulic type hoses. Explain you need a hose that does not break down exposed to oil and is resilient to heat - and they will set you up.

Reading comments here, many underestimate the condensation cycle the engine goes through when started and heating up to operating temps. The bottom of my bypass hose will have visible moisture puffing from it after the sled has been run for 1/2 hr or so. That's taking cold oil that collects moisture and then slowly starts evaporating it as it warms. It otherwise would wind up in the intake leaving an oily scum.

Also, i had my oil tank apart in the middle of summer and was surprised the top of the tank had condensation drops. No doubt this is common, but was surprised.
MS

 

[Phatboyc]

Anyone noticed how much vapor comes out of the hose at 3/4 or full throttle by any chance? I have my bypass going under the engine on top of oil filter access door. Belly pan stayed relatively clean at the end of the season as I keep my oil level in the middle.

But I wonder if under full throttle in throws so much hot vapor under the engine...enough to make my belt slip? I busted my xs825 belt at only 3100km. I am all stock besides this belt and bypass mod.