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Knockout kit

When you guys are reinstalling the stub shaft are you installing the shaft first, then getting the seal back in and then installing the bearing and housing last?
I cant see any other way to properly install the seal behind the stub shaft bearing.
 

I replaced the stub shaft bearing on a buddies sled this past spring. Using my 12 ton press. It was like a bomb going off when it released. Scared the crap outta me.
 
Installed a kit today was an easy install and it does quiet things up. Not sure how long the grease will stay in there but a pretty clever idea.
When you install did it just slide in the end or did you have to press in slightly. I installed on my 17 and I used a press and pressed in flush with the end.on my buddies his slid in by hand you can pull in and out it’s a very loose fit any ideals.
Thanks Pan
 
When you install did it just slide in the end or did you have to press in slightly. I installed on my 17 and I used a press and pressed in flush with the end.on my buddies his slid in by hand you can pull in and out it’s a very loose fit any ideals.
Thanks Pan
What year was the other sled where it fit loose?
 
What year was the other sled where it fit loose?
2021 and mine had blue grease the 2 kits he bought had red. From what I understand the blue was first run of bushings and red was second run.
 
They went to the red apparently because it was more tacky. That’s what I heard anyways
 
I've heard back in the day on the 3 cylinder greasing the splines quieted the clutch rattle, but then after a few hundred miles the rattle came back. What's to keep the grease from coming out and rattling again?

Some people even tried loctite, but it too of course came out and rattled again. The grease is just acting as a cushion and eventually will work its way out right.....
 
I've heard back in the day on the 3 cylinder greasing the splines quieted the clutch rattle, but then after a few hundred miles the rattle came back. What's to keep the grease from coming out and rattling again?

Some people even tried loctite, but it too of course came out and rattled again. The grease is just acting as a cushion and eventually will work its way out right.....
Isn't that the purpose of the sleeve with 0-ring?
 
Isn't that the purpose of the sleeve with 0-ring?

Thats what I dont quite understand. The shaft is open to the inner bearing, I also thought that shaft slid into the inner bearing. Its been a while since I've had a stub shaft out to know, but I don't see how that collar on the outer shaft with a o-ring on the inside of it is supposed to hold the grease in even if the shaft doesn't go into that internal bearing.

I have to take my 23 apart to loctite that bearing from moving in the housing, so I'll have a closer look then, but wanted to ask the question to the guys that have done this "kit". If it does indeed contain the grease, the shaft would hydraulic should the shaft try to move, otherwise I just don't see the grease staying put and stying quiet over time if its not packed in and sealed in. Myself, I don't see this kit working over a period of time without being sealed, and at that point the shaft couldn't move inward if it needed to.
 
Why does the shaft need to move inwards ?

The collar and o ring sit just beyond the splines on the crank , I’d imagine this will be something that needs to be re greased over time.
 
Why does the shaft need to move inwards ?

The collar and o ring sit just beyond the splines on the crank , I’d imagine this will be something that needs to be re greased over time.

It doesn't need to, but if it were to move inward from a belt explosion, would it transfer that energy to the crank and perhaps bend it from the hydraulic factor with the grease in there. I know it sounds like a stretch, but could it be possible if that should occur, and its not a pressed together crankshaft like a two-stroke, but just wondered what would happen to the energy should it try to move.

I'd like to dampen out the noise if this lasted any length of time, but if it had to be repacked every few hundred miles then not so much.

Got a picture on how the oring is supposed to seal the grease in at all? Looking at the ad pictures, I don't see how the collar and o-ring can hold the grease in place at all myself, perhaps I'm missing something though, thats why I ask.
 
Turboflash just posted this pic in the other stubshaft thread. It confirms exactly what I thought and how I remembered the shaft went into the inner bearing for support, so I'm not going crazy or senile, yet anyway..... As you can see, the inside of the stub slides into the inner bearing, how does the collar go on to that inner portion of the stub shaft and still go into the inside bearing?

From what I can see of the picture on TD's website, the o-ring sits inside the collar. I can't for the life of me see how that collar could get used on the shaft and go into the bearing still. What am I missing and how does the grease get sealed into the splines and not get pushed right out into the engine internals?

Thanks Turboflash for the picture!


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How does this collar with internal o-ring allow for the stub shaft to go into that internal bearing?

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Can see the o-ring inside this collar that looks like its supposed to go over the stub shaft, but wouldn't that collar prevent the stubshaft from going inside the bearing? Where is the grease being sealed into the splines this way? I'm really missing some things here on how this works without it in hand.

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. The stub shaft Is mated with the male splines.

ALSo the bearing on crank if anything would go over the the stub shaft not in it
 
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