• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

My RTX LE 50th BUILD THREAD-ROCKERDAN

Bar end 3" dia

Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk
44c1c0798ba49c20cccb36ecde44fdc4.jpg
a11adc31ad00c367a676fde05ad04976.jpg
 

Dan, can you please help me find link to oil ratings comparison?

Joe
 
Yes for sure.....

I really think the noise might be combination of harmonics of the triple and the weights rattling at idle.

I was checking the clutch and the weights are loose in there when sitting, and would bet at idle there is not enough side pressure on them to keep them from rattling.

Dan
Dan: I've got a fairly loud rattle, coming from the primary I believe, so much so that I can feel vibration through the running boards (17 SW with 2900kms). The roller bolts are loose (as you mentioned) and have about 1/16" of free play. Shouldn't they be at least "snug"? Didn't feel vibration or hear rattle until today. Is there a spec for them? Did your rubber O rings quieten things down or did you switch to felt washers? Sorry for all the questions and look forward to your insight.
 
Dan: I've got a fairly loud rattle, coming from the primary I believe, so much so that I can feel vibration through the running boards (17 SW with 2900kms). The roller bolts are loose (as you mentioned) and have about 1/16" of free play. Shouldn't they be at least "snug"? Didn't feel vibration or hear rattle until today. Is there a spec for them? Did your rubber O rings quieten things down or did you switch to felt washers? Sorry for all the questions and look forward to your insight.
O rings did basically nothing.....still loud at idle. Not really worried.
 
Dan great write up. Spent all afternoon reading your posts. looking dropping the hammer on same sled but in a 137" skid.

Currently on a 2006 apex with all basic mods

2 questions ?
1/why did you choose 129 over 137" skid ? thought traction would be big issue with 200 hp. Did hear though that the 137" has no transfer what so ever
2/ With those Cat hand guards (look sweet by the way )will a mid height trail windshield fit without hitting the hand guards ?
 
Dan great write up. Spent all afternoon reading your posts. looking dropping the hammer on same sled but in a 137" skid.

Currently on a 2006 apex with all basic mods

2 questions ?
1/why did you choose 129 over 137" skid ? thought traction would be big issue with 200 hp. Did hear though that the 137" has no transfer what so ever
2/ With those Cat hand guards (look sweet by the way )will a mid height trail windshield fit without hitting the hand guards ?
I have never owned anything longer then 129. And the transfer on 129 is better, lots about that here on the site.

I think the guards will work with any window. The way the handlebars turn they dont seem to hit. But Ive only used them with stock window or SE window now.
 
Procross LED HandGuards-Arctic Cat

I hemmed and hawed for some time about Handguards. I was pretty much set on the Powermadds, but was not a big fan of the large mirror look, and also the brackets are basically same as they were yrs ago. I just wanted something abit more like the DOO brackets with a more factory look.

I saw a guy with procross Guards end of last season, and I was really impressed with the size, the solid feel, and the really nice brackets. They do not offer a mirror as of now though, so I knew I had to make my own mirror setup, which I did today and they turned out even better then I had hoped.

I did not like the instruction,which has you mount the LED white box(power transformer) over the header on right side, top of spar. Too much heat there IMO, so I mounted it on left side where there is alot less heat. It comes with a pigtail you must use down near chaincase, that taps into stock wire harness. Easy peasy. The two wires coming from each Guard, can easily be dressed in and behind the main harness coming down front of riser from bars to under hood, I was able to dress in these wires and also the GPS main cable which is rather fat. Looks nice, and much easier then my doo with the adjustable riser that made all the wiring much harder.
Hey Dan I got a cottage on Lake Bernard in Sundridge . Getting tired of riding on my own.. All my friends are done with it. Sad part is I do got allot time to ride . I'm off most of the winter. I see you you got a cottage in Huntsville .. If you ever need another body to go with or to meet some where it would be awesome to go for ride with you .
Dan

View attachment 131753

View attachment 131746

View attachment 131747

Showing where I mounted the white LED box, left side.
View attachment 131793

View attachment 131794


View attachment 131748

View attachment 131749

View attachment 131750

View attachment 131756


View attachment 131757

View attachment 131758

View attachment 131759

View attachment 131774

View attachment 131775

View attachment 131776

View attachment 131795

View attachment 131796

View attachment 131797

View attachment 131798
 
I would only extend the offer to Dan, being somewhat local to me, with his following on here etc and write up skills. Still stands have not heard yet.
 
Dan, we live in an imperfect world. With that said. This works prefect.

IMG_20180204_124027901-640x380.jpg
 
Already screwed up, bought the Yamaha 4th wheel kit before I saw this post...
J&T Products Four Wheel rear axle kit - 'stealth big wheel kit'

Just about everyone knows since 2012, the stock "tri-hub" rear axle design is a weak point. I had one of the J&T axle kits back in 2012 on my cat, so I was sure to order one for my RTX.

Got it on sale end of summer, and its worth every penny. It is a top design IMO, and better then "add on" 4 wheel kits for sure. This kit removes the stock tri-hib entirely.

The key to installing these kits is relieving the pressure on rails, enabling them to be separated enough to make the install easier.

So the first thing is loosen the track way off to the max, with sled up on lift.

Remove the two rear axle bolts at rear wheels.

Remove the bolts for the transfer blocks/rod. Remove the transfer block/rod from skid.

Now loosen off the 2 bolts that are at bottom of scissors, bolts to rails. Just loosen them 3/4" or so, no need to remove them. These have a ton of loctite on them, and will need a decent size breaker bar.

Now you should be able to work the tri-hub free from skid.

Reinstall the center section of the new kit, making sure you have the adjuster seats in proper orientation. This can be abit tough alone, so take your time getting it back into place.

Once in place, you can start to tighten the adusters some, and also start to tighten the scissors bolts back up, bringing the rails closer together.

At the end, install the outer two wheels.....adjust your track tension align track as usual, then tighten real axle bolts when done, and install the black caps.

the RTX stock wheel size is 7" OD. The new Stealth kit RTX wheel size is 7.5" OD.

Dan


View attachment 131690 View attachment 131691 View attachment 131692 View attachment 131693 View attachment 131694 View attachment 131695 View attachment 131696 View attachment 131697 View attachment 131698 View attachment 131699 View attachment 131700
 
Wow looks like you guys had a great trip Fantastic video.
thanks for sharing
 


Back
Top