My RTX LE 50th BUILD THREAD-ROCKERDAN

[number1kyster]

Dan,

I'm getting ready to run through my sled and this thread has been so helpful. Thank you for all this information. I know you just sold this sled. I'm not sure which direction you are heading. Hopefully we will be blessed with another awesome build thread down the road!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Thanks, and glad this helped.

I hope to build upon this thread moving forward when I get my next 998.

I will always be here to answer anything from this thread in the meantime too!

Dan

 

[74Nitro]

Alright Dan, I'm going to give that belt a shot. My Kimpex rep was in and said that this belt will be replaced under warranty if it blows. He said just keep the cardboard holder that the belt comes in.
I have no problem with the 8DN, except 2 issues. The 8DN sits a little too high in the secondary and when taking off full throttle can cause the revs to be slightly high. The other is that I'm loosing 3-4 top end speed.
I will still be running my modified stock weights and basically the stock secondary set up, with hurricane offset spec.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Alright Dan, I'm going to give that belt a shot. My Kimpex rep was in and said that this belt will be replaced under warranty if it blows. He said just keep the cardboard holder that the belt comes in.
I have no problem with the 8DN, except 2 issues. The 8DN sits a little too high in the secondary and when taking off full throttle can cause the revs to be slightly high. The other is that I'm loosing 3-4 top end speed.
I will still be running my modified stock weights and basically the stock secondary set up, with hurricane offset spec.

I really like the Ultimax XS.....I have been reading all over the forums(other brands) and the Doo and Cat guys are also loving the Ultimax. I really think TIMKEN has made the Ultimax XS even better. I have never used such a clean running belt.

Remember, the 8DN is the longest belt out of them all we tried. 8JP stock belt is shortest. Ultimax is longer then stock but shorter then the 8DN and will have a closer top end 'MAX' to the stock length belt. Many guys have good luck with 8DN but being so hard, they are mostly guys who run more pressure in clutching to make them bite.

As for warranty, they can take some time to get it back but with receipt and properly filled out cardboard sleeve and there is a fee you need to send too, Timken will send you back a new belt. I did not blow my 2nd Ultimax, after I got the clutches setup and offset corrected, mine lasted all season. So if you dont blow it within one year, then warranty is over.

Dan

 

[Carpet Guy]

Gap Flasher with Hurricane 240r, 270r, 290r - 'Jukebox'

Got my clutching all squared away and got to get some test runs in using the Live Data via GAP FLASHER App and my iPhone mounted with my case setup. All of this worked incredibly well! I used the fairly recent iOS 11 feature(screenshot recording) to capture a couple of the runs. This allows me to go back and look at my run frame by frame anytime in a video form which aids in clutching among many other things. Video capture below.

My initial test today with new clutching was just about spot on where I wanted things first try. I can't say enough about Dalton components and how perfectly my engine RPMs thru the shift curve with this setup. I will post more details on clutch setup with pics in a follow up post very soon.

Watch these 3 videos in order....as this was how I went about it today.

Short description below above each specific video. -Dan




Just a short video of the GAP flasher APP on my iPhone X. There are more parameters in the app, and lots more to do on initial setup but this is basically showing the live data aspect of the GAP flasher with my Hurricane maps, also known as "jukebox".

This is my first test run using the Live Data in the GAP Flasher app. My iPhone X/app connects via BT to the flasher and is mounted to a RAM mount on the riser as shown in previous video. This is two back to back 2400 to 2500ft test runs with 240r HP map first , then 270r HP map. Sitting tall and not even tucking down, as this was just a test, and the raw power is simply incredible! I did not hold it WOT for more then 1500 ft or so, as I rolled into it as seen on live data capture. Hurricane tunes using GAPs Jukebox. This is an iPhone screenshot recording so obviously no sound. Watch carefully the 4 parameters I have set for RPMS, SPEED, (IAT)Intake Air Temp, and BOOST. Also watch after first run where I open jukebox and swap instantly to 270r map......Knock protection blipped after approx 2300ft total run on 270r map which was expected on the fuel in the sled currently. For the purpose of this video capture, I set the phone/case vertically(Portrait).

Some observations after first few runs using the live data with iPhone through the GAP FLasher app.....also new clutching impressions and some early GPS speeds. Not 100% sure where the APP gets it's top speed from, I assume the speedo but I could be wrong. Will be asking Dave this question soon. GPS doesn't lie though and all that really matters.

Is this set up with the 22 gear did u notice a difference between the 2 on the bottom and midrange by changing it

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Is this set up with the 22 gear did u notice a difference between the 2 on the bottom and midrange by changing it

I went back to 21 gear.

IMO gearing that tall is harder on belt life, and really not needed unless you are speed/radar running.

Bottom line, going 133 vs 126mph is are speeds most guys wont ever have the place to do. So again, if you are running speed runs sure I get it, go for it. But for me I trail rode my sled for 4100 miles and the 21 works better.

Going a step further, when I swapped with a buds Cat(24/50 gears) that sled corner to corner felt incredibly snappy and it was not tuned. My old rule of thumb was to gear for the speeds you will achieve occasionally. Cats are geared for like 118 or so, and really work well, and are easier on belt life, and snappier corner to corner.'

It all comes down to what you want from your sled.

Dan

 

[74Nitro]

I went back to 21 gear.

IMO gearing that tall is harder on belt life, and really not needed unless you are speed/radar running.

Bottom line, going 133 vs 126mph is are speeds most guys wont ever have the place to do. So again, if you are running speed runs sure I get it, go for it. But for me I trail rode my sled for 4100 miles and the 21 works better.

Going a step further, when I swapped with a buds Cat(24/50 gears) that sled corner to corner felt incredibly snappy and it was not tuned. My old rule of thumb was to gear for the speeds you will achieve occasionally. Cats are geared for like 118 or so, and really work well, and are easier on belt life, and snappier corner to corner.'

It all comes down to what you want from your sled.

Dan

The other nice thing about a 24/50 or 24/48 like I run, is the chain isn't making contact with that post in the case.

 

[74Nitro]

The other nice thing about a 24/50 or 24/48 like I run, is the chain isn't making contact with that post in the case.

Dan, what do you estimate the difference in belts equates to in top speed. I read through some old threads recently, and I am thinking I must be giving up about 5mph top speed with the 8DN belt, higher than the 3 I had estimated.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan, what do you estimate the difference in belts equates to in top speed. I read through some old threads recently, and I am thinking I must be giving up about 5mph top speed with the 8DN belt, higher than the 3 I had estimated.

Hard to get too specific without good testing. I felt like it was 3mph.

I did not have any luck with 8DN at all. I felt it was not pulling nearly as hard anywhere along the power band. The Ultimax XS is the only belt I will ever run from here on out, on the Winders and will do same on a DOO.

Dan

 

[74Nitro]

Hard to get too specific without good testing. I felt like it was 3mph.

I did not have any luck with 8DN at all. I felt it was not pulling nearly as hard anywhere along the power band. The Ultimax XS is the only belt I will ever run from here on out, on the Winders and will do same on a DOO.

Dan

Looking forward to trying it next year! Just need to get a few seasons out of the way!

 

[MarkAttack]

A guy I knew had those on his Buick 225, he called them curb feelers.

I wonder if you can still get Curb feelers from JC Whitney Catalog ??

 

[DMCTurbo]

Clutch Offset part 2 - 59mm

Got my secondary back from my machinist.....

Had him take off 4mm off rear of hub, which makes it just a tad past flush when full shifted. And then I had him make me 3 shims, that are a slightly smaller OD then stock YAM shims, So they don't rub. This way I can shim it wherever I want, and it will allow the shim to go inside if need be.

I had him make me a 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm, shown in pic below....and then the stock 1mm which is larger OD.

I am now able to put my clutch anywhere from 58mm on up to 61. Where mine sits, I use the 1.5mm and end up right around 58.8mm or just under 59mm. Which I think is where I will put it now.

Dan


Remove spring, open fully
View attachment 141786

Stock, approx 3.8mm sticking out when max open without spring.
View attachment 141787


Take apart and take for machining
View attachment 141788 View attachment 141789

After machining off 4mm, just a tad past flush when opened fully.
View attachment 141775

View attachment 141776


Custom made(smaller OD) 2mm, 1.5mm, 1mm and the larger OD stock 1mm

View attachment 141790

Do you have to take the same amount off of the spacer that goes under the big washer on the secondary bolt? Or just machine off the hub?

Thanks

 

[Muskrat62]

Hi Dan,
How exactly did you get rid of the Artic Cat on the handguards? Stickers? Thanks

M

 

[Muskrat62]

Dan,
Thanks for sharing this great build. Extremely helpful! as in helping to spend my money. Seriously though, a big thank you.

 

[Kkurz]

Hi Dan,
How exactly did you get rid of the Artic Cat on the handguards? Stickers? Thanks

M

You could leave the emblem to remind yourself where the great ride came from... Lol!!!