My RTX LE 50th BUILD THREAD-ROCKERDAN

[number1kyster]

Dan,

When will you be sharing the transfer mod?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan,

When will you be sharing the transfer mod?

RTX Transfer rod MOD

Yeah it seems to be holding up well...I personally love this setup.

I moved the transfer rod rearward.....7mm from edge to center punch.

MORE INFO HERE:
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/my-rtx-le-50th-build-thread-rockerdan.149801/page-38#post-1477971

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

.

 

[Erik 295]

Rollover Valve Removal

With the ultra cold temps early this winter, we saw some issues with the rollover valve freezing up, and in turn could cause too much pressure in the OIL tank. And eventually we saw plenty of sleds(more 17s then 18s) with seeping oil tanks. The oil tank is sealed to the chaincase cover with silicone, and so apparently once too much pressure builds the silicone seal cannot hold it back and it starts to push oil. Not good.

A secondary thing many of us dont like, is even when the rollover valve works as designed, it blows the oil vapors back into the intake tract, which in turn ends up in your charge tubes. Not good either IMO.

A simple/easy solution to both of these problems is deleting it altogether. This is not something everyone should do. If your sled is rolled over, oil MAY be lost, and who knows what else can go wrong, so this should be done with extreme care/caution. Nuff said about that.

Just a few pics and a short vid.....should explain it all.

Dan

View attachment 136037 View attachment 136038 View attachment 136039 View attachment 136040 View attachment 136041 View attachment 136042 View attachment 136043 View attachment 136044


Be sure to use fuel line(NOT HEATER HOSE) as it will sweat oil eventually thru heater hose.

Rollover Valve Removal


With the ultra cold temps early this winter, we saw some issues with the rollover valve freezing up, and in turn could cause too much pressure in the OIL tank. And eventually we saw plenty of sleds(more 17s then 18s) with seeping oil tanks. The oil tank is sealed to the chaincase cover with silicone, and so apparently once too much pressure builds the silicone seal cannot hold it back and it starts to push oil. Not good.

A secondary thing many of us dont like, is even when the rollover valve works as designed, it blows the oil vapors back into the intake tract, which in turn ends up in your charge tubes. Not good either IMO.

A simple/easy solution to both of these problems is deleting it altogether. This is not something everyone should do. If your sled is rolled over, oil MAY be lost, and who knows what else can go wrong, so this should be done with extreme care/caution. Nuff said about that.

Just a few pics and a short vid.....should explain it all.

Dan

View attachment 136037 View attachment 136038 View attachment 136039 View attachment 136040 View attachment 136041 View attachment 136042 View attachment 136043 View attachment 136044


Be sure to use fuel line(NOT HEATER HOSE) as it will sweat oil eventually thru heater hose.

Did you use heather hose on your role over valve?

 

[Erik 295]

Did you use heater hose on your Rollover valve bypass?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Did you use heater hose on your Rollover valve bypass?

No, you need hose that is good for FUEL, so it does not end up seeping through. Get hose rated for FUEL or Oil use.

Dan

 

[Erik 295]

No, you need hose that is good for FUEL, so it does not end up seeping through. Get hose rated for FUEL or Oil use.

Dan

I watched a video of how you installed it it says heater hose on yours that’s why I was questioning it I just want to make sure to get the right hose!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I watched a video of how you installed it it says heater hose on yours that’s why I was questioning it I just want to make sure to get the right hose!

Early on, we all were using heater hose as its easier to find and buy. We all found out after about 4 weeks of use, the coolant type rubber would actually start to sweat the oil right thru the rubber!

So I googled up oil or fuel line...alot harder to find. But its all good now with the fuel line.

Dan

 

[Sevey]

Go to specialty store like Parker Hannifin and tell them you want a hose that is compatible with petroleum products. They have everything you can imagine.
MS

 

[JayM]

RTX Transfer rod MOD

Yeah it seems to be holding up well...I personally love this setup.

I moved the transfer rod rearward.....7mm from edge to center punch.

Dan

View attachment 146352 View attachment 146353 View attachment 146354 View attachment 146355 View attachment 146356 View attachment 146357

Finally pls add link to 1st page. What made you decide on 7mm? Seems really close to the original hole but there's no forward pressure I guess so it's not going to collapse.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Finally pls add link to 1st page. What made you decide on 7mm? Seems really close to the original hole but there's no forward pressure I guess so it's not going to collapse.

What I did was remove skid, springs taken off....so I could collapse rear and watch how it articulates. When the scissors moves back, it also goes down on an arc.....So you need to make the new location low enough, so the scissors still hit the blocks with enough coverage.

Since the holes need to be lowered, you can only move them rearward so much, since you are at the bottom edge of the rail. And this was my worry, that it would crack being so close. But it has held up to a pounding all winter. And it sure made a big difference, more then I thought it would.

Now, i did also lengthen straps a tad more by ovalling out each hole at both ends of straps to gain a tad there, and I also sped up the Rebound clicker(top of rear shock-w/screwdriver) on the rear shock, so when hitting the flipper, the rear shock motion would be faster which makes for quicker transfer.

Dan

 

[JayM]

What I did was remove skis, springs taken off....so I could collapse rear and watch how it articulates. When the scissors moves back, it also goes down on an arc.....So you need to make the new location low enough, so the scissors still hit the blocks with enough coverage.

Since the holed need to be lowered, you can only move them rearward so much, since you are at the bottom edge of the rail. And this was my worry, that it would crack being so close. But it has held up to a pounding all winter. And it sure made a big difference, more then I thought it would.

Now, i did also lengthen straps a tad more by ovalling out each hole at both ends of straps to gain a tad there, and I also sped up the Rebound clicker(top of rear shock-w/screwdriver) on the rear shock, so when hitting the flipper, the rear shock motion would be faster which makes for quicker transfer.

Dan

Nice, I figured there was a well thought out method to your madness Makes a lot of sense. If I decide I'm keeping this thing I will do that for next season for sure. The Yellow of the MXZ might be calling my name, just not sure I can handle an 850 2Stroke after being on this R-TX. Trying to find someone local to let me test drive.

 

[actionjack]

What I did was remove skis, springs taken off....so I could collapse rear and watch how it articulates. When the scissors moves back, it also goes down on an arc.....So you need to make the new location low enough, so the scissors still hit the blocks with enough coverage.

Since the holes need to be lowered, you can only move them rearward so much, since you are at the bottom edge of the rail. And this was my worry, that it would crack being so close. But it has held up to a pounding all winter. And it sure made a big difference, more then I thought it would.

Now, i did also lengthen straps a tad more by ovalling out each hole at both ends of straps to gain a tad there, and I also sped up the Rebound clicker(top of rear shock-w/screwdriver) on the rear shock, so when hitting the flipper, the rear shock motion would be faster which makes for quicker transfer.

Dan

Gonna try this next year.

How much threads are visible on your rear shock?

I agree I would like my sled to have a
much lighter front feel. My buds 850 can lift the skis at will and still makes corners easily.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Gonna try this next year.

How much threads are visible on your rear shock?

I agree I would like my sled to have a
much lighter front feel. My buds 850 can lift the skis at will and still makes corners easily.

Threads on rear shock? I dont follow.

Maybe you mean center shock?

My transfer mod is on my 129". Make sure you do this on a 129" at your own risk, not a 137.

Dan

 

[Erik 295]

Threads on rear shock? I dont follow.

Maybe you mean center shock?

My transfer mod is on my 129". Make sure you do this on a 129" at your own risk, not a 137.

Dan

Some of the guy I ride with took the stop off completely. Not sure if it helped or not.