My RTX LE 50th BUILD THREAD-ROCKERDAN

[Yamatario]

2017 BTX Seat

One of the first things I did was slap on the new seat. I knew ever since early LAST season I wanted the Mountain style seat. I rode a BTX at the demo, and also saw another cat with one and just loved the feel of it. And the bonus is, it allows for more tunnel space behind the seat for my LinQ setup(more on that later) as I wanted to keep the smaller stock tunnel bag in place.

I priced out buying mt. seat foam and doing the swap ect....sure its cheaper but after some talking with my dealer, and the price he gave me on a new seat...I felt it was smarted to just buy a new seat all ready to slap on, has heater and all. So The bonus is I can sell stocker, or keep it for when sled goes down the road later. And have a mt. seat for a future sled.



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Just remove the screw at back of seat tail, and unclip the clip, unplug seat heater cable, slide seat rearward & seat pops right off....reinstall new one, dont forget to plug in seat heater cable.
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Comparison pic of shorter MT. seat vs stocker at tail....
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BTX(MT.)Seat installed
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Thanks Dan...just picked up my seat today. Found out if you want the seat heater model you have to order the 2017 part number which is the one you listed. 2018 seats do not have the heater option.

 

[Fredsleds]

GlennM,

Do you have a Skinz part number for the SW?

Thanks,

Fred

 

[LouTurbo]

Noone said to use heat on pads ......I surely would not.

Correct, I meant to say do not use heat, speaking from experience, I had the edges separate trying to warm it , but used to much heat and made a mess.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Correct, I meant to say do not use heat, speaking from experience, I had the edges separate trying to warm it , but used to much heat and made a mess.

Good to know for those guys wanting knee pads....not something I like personally, i ride right close always.

 

[Fredsleds]

Well, this is my first "non traditional" sled. Have had Apex , Vectors, Vipers, SRX's, V-Max's, etc, always a more "upright" position, the SW with the stock seat is really rider forward. Even the cheap OEM knee pads made going through the bumps very comfortable IMO. Anyway, I may try the Skinz ones as they are even thicker with padding then the OEM.

Dan, do you have any options on brand of SS rivenuts/ rivet gun for the right front bottom piece. I saw that you used aluminum ones from Harbor Freight and were disappointed, and were thinking about using SS ones . Anyway, making that piece easily removable was pure genius on your part. It makes working on this beast so much easier.

Fred

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan, do you have any options on brand of SS rivenuts/ rivet gun for the right front bottom piece. I saw that you used aluminum ones from Harbor Freight and were disappointed, and were thinking about using SS ones . Anyway, making that piece easily removable was pure genius on your part. It makes working on this beast so much easier.

Fred

This is not so cut and dried. I spent some time searching up "rivnuts" and "nutserts". Lots to look at on ebay when you search. The problem is, you need the tool to install them. So it ends up that the tool is where the bigger cost lies.

This was why I ended up grabbing the cheapo at harbor freight, since It was something I might only use once. And i had seen on ebay guys trying to sell the same HF tool(only) for much more. So I figured I would just try the kit as it was so cheap. At least the alum rivnuts would not rust. I ran into the most issue where its a thicker section to attach to on the sled. So you need a deeper(longer) rivnut. The two near right foot close, are only into one thickness of the footwell and so those two worked perfectly.

I think this gun I have will work OK, just not as good as a pricey gun. And who knows, I may next fall just bite bullet and buy a good rivnut gun and have it for any future use. Ebay seemed to have alot of choices when I dug in to the searching.

I would advise to do this when you have lots of time(summer/fall) and not trying to ride quickly. Mostly cause then you can drill out the side panel/remove it. And at this time you can then see exactly what I mean and what sizes will work. I tried to gather all my stuff ahead of time and once up here its alot harder to find this type of item.

After doing mine, I realize in several spots, we could simply use a bolt and nut, cause you can get your hand at backside. So this is also a simple option.

PM me if you need anymore help with specifics...

Dan

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Dan,

Just a note of thanks for all the pics and video's you posted in this thread... especially oil change and chaincase service. I just finished up both (500 mile maint) and referencing this post made the job go much smoother and confidently! You are an asset to all of us! Kudo's!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan,

Just a note of thanks for all the pics and video's you posted in this thread... especially oil change and chaincase service. I just finished up both (500 mile maint) and referencing this post made the job go much smoother and confidently! You are an asset to all of us! Kudo's!

Thanks very much, Very glad it helped!

I think working on this sled will be the best part of this season, since the riding seems like it will be very little with these thaws that seem to be never ending.

 

[XP123]

Thanks very much, Very glad it helped!

I think working on this sled will be the best part of this season, since the riding seems like it will be very little with these thaws that seem to be never ending.

We need to head north Dan and ride these sleds instead of talking about them!

I would also like to thank you for your build thread! I'm picking up my BCX seat today at Dons. I may have to pick up a few side jobs now that I'm retired just to cover the stuff I'm buying for this Winder!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

We need to head north Dan and ride these sleds instead of talking about them!

I would also like to thank you for your build thread! I'm picking up my BCX seat today at Dons. I may have to pick up a few side jobs now that I'm retired just to cover the stuff I'm buying for this Winder!

Joe....you said it brother!

These last two big storms went by, mostly freezing rain here yet two hrs north of me, all snow and then further up Val-d'or has been getting it good. We had been planning to do a run up there anyway, but now its beginning to look like we need to head up there alot earlier if I want to ride.

Let me know if you head that way, as you know Im not that far below there and getting very ANTSY!

Dan

 

[snowbeast]

Boost leak testing(All credit to Beerman)

After a few conversations last winter, I was fairly certain I would opt for an aftermarket BOV, as it had been said the stock BOV starts to seep around 17psi. So knowing I will be wicking up the boost shortly, I decided to grab a TurboSmart BOV.(part number below)

That being said, Ben and a few others have found leaks on some sleds over the past yr. Not all, and likely very few....but felt it would be nice for my OCD mind to know I have no leaks. So when beerman came up with the tester, I was all in. As you all know by now...Art has been kind enough to make up two testers and will be sending it around to anyone who wants to test their own. For US guys who want to use his tester Yankees Go Here , And for our Canuk brothers who want to use the leak tester, Canuks Go Here.

I have it now, and got my testing done today....I will say right off the bat, that mine had no leaks. What I found interesting is mine did not let go of any PSI(quickly) all the way up to 30psi. I had to hold the clutch at TDC as 30psi would want to turn the crank. lol

Now, I will also say my stock BOV held just fine, and the PSI does seep down slowly, which I believe is normal after watching Art's video. However mine does not seem to let go as his did in his video, which we think may be cause mine is brand new with ZERO MILES on ticker.

I installed the BOV I got from TurboSmart as I know I will be wicking up the boost soon, Just a few pics below and also a few of the tester. See this post for detailed info before installing the TurboSmart BOV

Huge shout out to Beerman, thanks Art!

Dan


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So Dan that turbosmart BOV is a direct bolt in,same hook up as stocker?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

So Dan that turbosmart BOV is a direct bolt in,same hook up as stocker?

Yes.....works nicely.

 

[GlennM]

Yes.....works nicely.

Is it noisy? I'm guessing it's not needed on a stock sw?

 

[snowbeast]

Yes.....works nicely.

ok thanks dan.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Is it noisy? I'm guessing it's not needed on a stock sw?

No, its quiet if installed same as stock. Likely not needed on stocker.