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My RTX LE 50th BUILD THREAD-ROCKERDAN

Still lots of snow here.... good till mid April at least
 

Hey All,
In the midst of doing my first oil change on winder a

Is Loctite required for drain plugs?
 
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Hey All,
In the midst of doing my first oil change on winder a

Is Loctite required for drain plugs?
Hummm, if you're asking that question I'm not sure you should be doing it yourself !
 
Hi Glenn,
I’m a beginner, I do not have any Yamaha certified credentials, I am not a mechanic by Trade but I do like to tinker with my toys. ( I’m a farmer, so if you have questions on servicing a bailer, feeder, or tractor feel free to ask me or if you have a question about Toyota. I also manage a Toyota dealership!

So why I asked : On my old ‘04 RX-1 you had to use Loctite Glenn, even the dealer told me to. This may have been just a characteristic of that particular machine as it always leaked oil from drain plug on engine block when Loctite was not used. So, if I’m gonna do it, Ill do it right the first time and seek advise from the experts on TY4STROKE like yourself when I am unsure
I did not use Loctite FYI. Torqued it to spec with new washer installed. Looking forward to a leak free snowmobile. Check out my build thread time to time and let me know how I’m doing: again I am a beginner

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/2018-yamaha-sidewinder-ltx-le-beginner-build.153263/
Sorry about that, didn't mean any disrespect, I've just never heard of using Loctite on oil plugs!
 
Fall maintenance...

Several things need attention before riding season. At approx 1450miles on ODO most things look pretty good still. Not nearly as good as my doo's with similar miles but no major issues.

I did begin to have an oil tank seep last spring, like many guys seem to get. So that will be one thing I will be fixing. Also found a leaking front shock, and so dealer got me a new replacement from YAM....

Also I decided to go back to stock 21/41 gearing to try to get my belt life more respectable, the 22 top gear is coming out. I also decided to add the RR front upper cross shaft to beef up that area as the stocker can break and cause catastrophic damage to the tunnel. Also want to add some sort of coolant hose protection, so these can both be done while skid is out, and then I can check sliders and idlers.

Some pics from todays tear down...

Dan

New Fox Qs3r
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Next skid removal.....
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I removed the 4 wheel rear axle,loosened transfer block shaft, made it easy to remove skid from track.
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Found the washers on 4wh axle are cupped/bent inward, due to the way the wheels don't sit flush onto outer axles....Im looking into a way to fix this.
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Skid out
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Slider wear is astonishingly good on these sleds....1450 miles, many not great conditions, and these sliders look NEW still....not even a worn area, completely even!
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IMG_2866.jpeg


First issue I saw was the 2 inner idler wheels are losing rubber. Outers all look mint, and all bearing are perfectly quiet still. I know these Soucy brand wheels are not the best, and since I have studs up the middle I attribute the inners getting bad due to the studs. I will try to source PPD idlers for replacement.
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More to come.....
Dan
 
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Woody's 8'' ACE Carbides(for pilot 6.9s)

Trying these this season, heard good things. These are more aggressive which i think will bode well for the 6.9s. Tall rectangular bar, sorta like a shaper but solid and claim tallest on the market, and hold up well....these are the full size 8". (actual carbide 7.25" as shown end to end 60 degree with hard weld in front of the bend)

Dan



IMG_2945.jpeg
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I have the same issue with the inner idler wheels! My sled has 2500 miles on it but r
They are not as bad as seen in the photo here. Would also like to find replacements.
 


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