OSP SR Viper belt adjuster with float

[cannondale27]

Odd my 8DN has 1500+ mi on it. 1.351 in so narrow to begin with and I can run it at top easy. I set mine just so it squeaks once in a while at idle.

 

[cannondale27]

I really like the adjustability.

 

[Blue Dave]

I really like the adjustability.

X2 Like I said earlier, every Viper owner needs to buy one of these!

 

[WVTurboLTX]

I don't get why you are taking the plate out. With the three screws removed my clutch sheves touch each other. With no belt on it you can feel them rubbing each other. I removed it again to check and sure enough the very bottom is in full contact with the plate still installed.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

By the way. I have ulmer's clutching and the 8DN on it and was able to get it adjusted with room to spare.

 

[Blue Dave]

I don't get why you are taking the plate out. With the three screws removed my clutch sheves touch each other. With no belt on it you can feel them rubbing each other. I removed it again to check and sure enough the very bottom is in full contact with the plate still installed.

I was wondering the same thing but I was going to wait until I had the secondary off to double check this myself before posting that question. I do not have the plate removed (just the three bolts) and I recall that my secondary sheaves were touching each other (fully closed) making me wonder what added value there was to removing the plate.

I think that only those guys that had their secondary machined to accept the 8DN belt need to remove the plate.

Happy New Year!!!!!! Let's hope that 2015 brings us some much needed snow!

 

[cannondale27]

The 8dn machining just moves the plate inward allowing the sheaves to close FURTHER. Removing plate does same thing. You CANNOT remove the plate without the OSP adjuster because the three stock belt deflection screws would dig in ruining clutch. The reason for removing the plate or machining is simple. Eventually you will not get proper belt deflection running 8dn either because of wear or a narrow 8dn. Guaranteed. With this setup any 8dn will work properly. But if you are happy don't do it. I run minimum deflection and run my belt a entire season with minimum deflection. That's usually 3000mi. It seems to me that either some are just getting lucky and purchased a wide 8dn,center to center varies or some just don't set belt deflection as tight as could be. If not set as tight as is proper you are losing performance at engagement unless you like taking off in second gear.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

The 8dn machining just moves the plate inward allowing the sheaves to close FURTHER. Removing plate does same thing. You CANNOT remove the plate without the OSP adjuster because the three stock belt deflection screws would dig in ruining clutch. The reason for removing the plate or machining is simple. Eventually you will not get proper belt deflection running 8dn either because of wear or a narrow 8dn. Guaranteed. With this setup any 8dn will work properly. But if you are happy don't do it. I run minimum deflection and run my belt a entire season with minimum deflection. That's usually 3000mi. It seems to me that either some are just getting lucky and purchased a wide 8dn,center to center varies or some just don't set belt deflection as tight as could be. If not set as tight as is proper you are losing performance at engagement unless you like taking off in second gear.

I understand all of that. What im saying is that the contact point between my sheaves isn't the plate. It is the sheaves themselves so removing the plate will not allow them to close any further. Maybe the clutches on the 15' are slightly different than the 14' in how they are machined?

 

[Blue Dave]

I understand all of that. What im saying is that the contact point between my sheaves isn't the plate. It is the sheaves themselves so removing the plate will not allow them to close any further. Maybe the clutches on the 15' are slightly different than the 14' in how they are machined?

Now you have my curiosity up. I am going to look at my '15 RTX DX secondary clutch this morning which has the plate still installed.

With the OSP tool fully backed off (not touching the helix) I will see if my sheaves are fully in contact with each other. I will report back shortly.

 

[cannondale27]

I understand all of that. What im saying is that the contact point between my sheaves isn't the plate. It is the sheaves themselves so removing the plate will not allow them to close any further. Maybe the clutches on the 15' are slightly different than the 14' in how they are machined?

Look again. Contact point is the plate that is how the deflection screws and shims adjust deflection stock. Once plate is removed of course sheaves will hit without OSP adjuster but you just gained .080 in of adjustment. That is way more than will ever be needed using a 8DN. If what you are saying were correct adding washers to screws would do nothing. I hope I explained this well enough since I have moved on to other mods. It really is as simple as stated. I would not remove the plate without the OSP adjuster in place and adjusted.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

I agree that IF the screws are installed that them and the plate are the contact point. I'm telling you that with the screws removed and the plate still in place the plate and the other sheve are NOT the contact point the sheves are. At least on my secondary that is how it is. Not sure if everyone is like this. I was just sharing my experience with the adjuster.

You can see the plate is still in place and on the rim you can see the contact point now that the screws are removed.

Contact point on the other side.

 

[cannondale27]

Thank you and I agree. I get it. I just assumed the contact would be the plate screws or plate itself. Pics worth thousand words. So with OSP adjuster nothing is needed for full life of 8dn. No Machining and no plate removal. Sorry for any trouble anyone had getting plate off. You guys are right. Just checked mine and that is contact point on all Yamaha clutches with screws removed. This make 8DN conversion even simpler.

 

[cannondale27]

Just checked another old secondary I have. Same thing. Nothing needed for full adjustment using 8dn and OSP adjuster just remove stock adjustment screws and shim washers and you are set. Glad you guys are on the ball! Sorry again.

 

[WVTurboLTX]

No problem. When I did mine yesterday I realized I don't have my torch here to heat the screws up so I just put it together with the plate in place. While installing the spring I felt a grinding when I rotated the sheves to tighten down the helix. Stopped where I was and took it back apart thinking that the screws holding the plate on were touching the other side. That's when I found this. Anyways, Ulmer Clutch Kit installed and OSP adjuster on. No more spring bind, and I can run the 8DN without machining. With the turbo on it I might still send both clutches to Allen next summer just to get more top speed out of it. Waiting to see what I can run on the lake on the GPS before dropping the coin.

 

[Blue Dave]

Thank you and I agree. I get it. I just assumed the contact would be the plate screws or plate itself. Pics worth thousand words. So with OSP adjuster nothing is needed for full life of 8dn. No Machining and no plate removal. Sorry for any trouble anyone had getting plate off. You guys are right. Just checked mine and that is contact point on all Yamaha clutches with screws removed. This make 8DN conversion even simpler.

I wish I had waited to see your results before digging into mine. Exact same result here after removing the plate which involved stripping out all three of the screw heads that hold down the plate. They had blue Loctite on them but it felt like red! Even with a #3 phillips screw driver the screw heads stripped. I ended up using a vice grip on the outer edges of the screw heads to remove them.

The plate is absolutely NOT the contact point when the clutch is fully closed with the three OEM adjustment screws removed. I set the plate in place unsecured and closed the sheaves tightly with my hands and shook the clutch and I could actually hear and feel the plate sliding loosely around inside.

I took some pictures but I guess that it is now a moot point. For those of you with a stock secondary (not machined to close further) there is absolutely no benefit whatsoever to removing this plate except to drop a few ounces of sled weight! LOL!