OSP SR Viper belt adjuster with float

[cannondale27]

Sorry Dave. Like I said you need heat to remove those screws. I have my old ones that are fine if you need them.

 

[cannondale27]

Just so you know I have no intention of ever putting that plate and screws back in. Just saved 54 grams of rotating weight. Might be my edge!

 

[Blue Dave]

Sorry Dave. Like I said you need heat to remove those screws. I have my old ones that are fine if you need them.

No worries, I am going to leave the plate out now since it has no purpose when running the OSP tool.

I have been experimenting with using the 1 1/2 " PVC pipe to make the belt removal shim that I first made out of a plastic sheet with hole saws. The 1 1/2 " PVC pipe works great and is so much easier than cutting a shim out of flat plastic. I will post some pictures and more details shortly.

 

[Blue Dave]

Just so you know I have no intention of ever putting that plate and screws back in. Just saved 54 grams of rotating weight. Might be my edge!

Ha! Does that huge weight reduction include the three screws and the blue Loctite? LOL!

 

[cannondale27]

Yes! I am glad you are laughing at my mistake. I really am sorry and owe you guys a lunch for pointing it out if we ever ride . Thank you

 

[putz21]

I wish I had waited to see your results before digging into mine. Exact same result here after removing the plate which involved stripping out all three of the screw heads that hold down the plate. They had blue Loctite on them but it felt like red! Even with a #3 phillips screw driver the screw heads stripped. I ended up using a vice grip on the outer edges of the screw heads to remove them.

The plate is absolutely NOT the contact point when the clutch is fully closed with the three OEM adjustment screws removed. I set the plate in place unsecured and closed the sheaves tightly with my hands and shook the clutch and I could actually hear and feel the plate sliding loosely around inside.

I took some pictures but I guess that it is now a moot point. For those of you with a stock secondary (not machined to close further) there is absolutely no benefit whatsoever to removing this plate except to drop a few ounces of sled weight! LOL!

So if I have my secondary machined, do I need to removed the plate and the 3 screws or just the 3 screws?

 

[cannondale27]

If you have OSP adjuster there is no need for machining other than overdrive and as for adjustment and plate removal it would depend on how much overdrive they are machining for but you would have to ask someone who has it machined to check. I am not at point that mine would even pull overdrive. Since I know clutch is capable of 105mph stock.

 

[FAMILYMAN]

I read every page. What I have...8dn, Ulmer clutching, no machining, removed rear screws and double washers. Reinstalled with osp spacer, not enough squeeze to get belt on. Have lots of PVC, great idea. My problem is I can not get my belt back up to even the 1/8 above it was running. It's actually below by 1/2" with a loose locking collar. Anyone know what step I missed?
Kinda lost...not sure why.


2014 viper, mpi
2009 Phazer 144"

 

[cannondale27]

Just set the belt in there and see where it is at. I adjust the deflection by feel. It should creep and squeal if to tight just back off adjuster half a turn. Do this while riding but make sure you hold your brake when starting it. If too tight it will take off.

 

[kubba]

I read every page. What I have...8dn, Ulmer clutching, no machining, removed rear screws and double washers. Reinstalled with osp spacer, not enough squeeze to get belt on. Have lots of PVC, great idea. My problem is I can not get my belt back up to even the 1/8 above it was running. It's actually below by 1/2" with a loose locking collar. Anyone know what step I missed?
Kinda lost...not sure why.


2014 viper, mpi
2009 Phazer 144"

I had the same thing but my helix was hanging up just a small amount once I got the secondary to fully close up mine was at the top.

 

[Blue Dave]

I read every page. What I have...8dn, Ulmer clutching, no machining, removed rear screws and double washers. Reinstalled with osp spacer, not enough squeeze to get belt on. Have lots of PVC, great idea. My problem is I can not get my belt back up to even the 1/8 above it was running. It's actually below by 1/2" with a loose locking collar. Anyone know what step I missed?
Kinda lost...not sure why.


2014 viper, mpi
2009 Phazer 144"

After you called me on the phone this morning I realized that I did not ask you to check your secondary sheave width to make sure it can fully close shut. Without a belt installed and with the OSP adjuster backed off (not pressing on the helix) my secondary sheaves are 43.5 mm outside edge to outside edge.

There will be a very slight "gap in between the sheaves which will allow a piece of paper to barely slide into before hitting the actual sheave contact point which is just inside a bit. At this point the secondary sheaves are in physical contact with each other and the clutch is as narrow as it possibly can be.

You mentioned that perhaps your primary clutch is not opening fully (binding partially closed)? I doubt this but I gave you the outside edge to outside edge dimension to check. The rollers and weights should spin on their shafts (not in contact with each other) when the engine is off.

Really there aren't that many possible causes of a belt not riding high enough in the secondary at idle with the OSP tool backed off.

1) Secondary clutch not capable of closing all of the way (binding partially open).

2) Belt too thin in width.

3) Belt circumference too short.

4) Primary to secondary clutch center to center distance too great (highly unlikely)

5) Primary clutch not open all of the way (binding partially closed) (also highly unlikely)

Causes 3, 4, & 5 will certainly cause belt squeal even though the belt is too low in the secondary.

Always make sure that after installing a belt that you run the sled on a stand and run the belt up and down in the secondary before allowing the track to coast to a stop before making any observations regarding the belt position in the secondary.

 

[Blue Dave]

OK, back to the temporary spacer for easy belt removal. I experimented with different thicknesses and found that 7 mm is ideal. Any thicker than this adds no benefit because the spring will coil bind before you bottom out the cupped plate. A thicker spacer will also make it harder to get the split collar started because it will reduce the number of threads available for the split collar to spin onto.

The OSP "cupped" plate has a 7 mm cup (recessed area) so adding a 7 mm temporary spacer between the cupped plate and the helix allows 14 mm of secondary clutch sheave spreading, which as I said, is the point at which the secondary spring becomes coil bound.

14 mm of clutch sheave spreading ability is twice what the OSP tool by itself offers and is enough to allow a brand new 8JP belt to be easily removed. Simply cut a 7mm long piece of 1.5" PVC pipe with a miter saw to make sure it is square and then carry it with you in your tool kit to be used when you need to replace a belt.

Simply place the temporary spacer in between the OSP cupped plate and the helix then spin the OSP collar as tight as it will go. Your belt will then come off very easily which is important on a Viper since it is such a PIA to get your hands in there to spread the clutch by hand.

 

[tator]

ha dave i got an idea. maybe we should paten the "precision spacer" for the OSP belt adjuster. sell for 12 bucks each. split 50-50? well 45-45 and 10% back to TY! looks to work good.

 

[cannondale27]

Familyman this is where mine is set perfectly. Adjuster flush and belt just resting in secondary. This should be close. Within a half turn for sure. Back adjuster off till it squeals at idle then go in 1/2 turn. Do this while riding. If it squeals right away or even wants to creep just turn it in 1/2 turn at a time till it stops. You will be perfect at that point. I had best luck doing it with this method and never took more than two or three tries.

 

[Blue Dave]

ha dave i got an idea. maybe we should paten the "precision spacer" for the OSP belt adjuster. sell for 12 bucks each. split 50-50? well 45-45 and 10% back to TY! looks to work good.

Do you think that we can sell enough "precision spacers" for me to pay for the $100 power miter saw that I picked up the other day at Home Depot. LOL! I needed a power miter saw anyway and this project just reminded me that I needed to go buy one.