MCApex44
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Ok...I want to make sure I have it right before I install OSP adjuster.
-I had my secondary machined by Ulmer and I am running the 8dn belt. What do I need to do to install the OSP adjuster?
-I had my secondary machined by Ulmer and I am running the 8dn belt. What do I need to do to install the OSP adjuster?
Blue Dave
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If you had Ulmer machine the secondary to allow the sheaves to be closer together then you need to remove the three hex head bolts and washers on the back side of the secondary AND you need to remove the three large black philips screws and the gold colored plate that are inside of the clutch (you have to take the clutch apart to access the philips screws and the plate.)
The three philips screws that retain the plate are Loctighted so you will need to use some heat to break them free or you will strip the heads out like I did.
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Blue Dave
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Here are pictures of mine. With the threaded split collar flush with the end of the tool and the cupped plate just barely putting pressure on the helix, my new 8JP belt is riding with the ribs just above the secondary sheaves. This is basically a half turn in from being loose which was causing a very slight squeal at idle.
Interestingly when I ran the belt up and down in the clutch by running the sled on the track stand and let the track coast to a stop, the belt was much lower than this. However after letting the track spin slowly for a while at idle the belt worked its way back up to where it is shown in this picture.
This tool is so awesome! It makes belt deflection adjustment super easy! Every Viper owner should have one. To make it even more useful make a temporary spacer as described in my post on the previous page and then the tool can be used to easily remove the belt!
In hindsight if OSP had made the threaded part of the tool 7 mm longer and the cupped plate 7 mm thicker (with 14 mm of relieved area instead of 7 mm) then the tool would be able to do both tasks easily (belt deflection adjustment & belt removal). I believe that there is enough clearance for the added length without cutting into the foam on the side panel. If just the cupped plate is made thicker (without making the tool longer) you will end up with the threaded split collar being locked down hanging out past the end of the tool & not utilizing all of the threads in the collar.
For me this is no big deal as it is easy to carry the temporary spacer in the tool kit and simply install it whenever replacing the belt. Installing and removing the temporary spacer during belt replacement adds less than a minute to the belt replacement process. Struggling to spread the sheaves with your hands takes far longer and usually results in scraped hands, frustration and foul language. LOL!
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stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
! The helix will not always return to its fully open position, skewing your results. Check the helix/secondary and make sure the moveable sheave is completely back to the stop.
Wouldnt Ulmer tell his customers to remove the plate?
Blue Dave
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Or remove the plate himself when machining the sheaves?
I cant believe he wouldnt do that. Are you sure its necessary? I dont know what is involved in the machining I thought it was done on the primary for overdrive.
Blue Dave
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Yes, overdrive is achieved by machining the primary and that would have nothing to do with belt height in the secondary
I am not familiar with the 8DN belt mod but I am guessing that it involves machining the secondary sheaves so they can be closer together and drive the thinner 8DN belt higher in the sheaves. If so, I would think that the plate must be removed or it will be the limiting factor making the machining useless.
I am not familiar with the 8DN belt mod but I am guessing that it involves machining the secondary sheaves so they can be closer together and drive the thinner 8DN belt higher in the sheaves. If so, I would think that the plate must be removed or it will be the limiting factor making the machining useless.
Not if you machine under the plate. That is what they do. Totally not needed with OSP.
I did not know about removing the plate and mine will not get the 8 JP anywhere near the top of the secondary. I will look into it in the morning
I will get more shop time Friday. Thanks for all the information. I have either an alignment issue or secondary not wound up enough? Either way it have to get it running again before I can do testing, so electrical first.uggg
2014 viper, mpi
2009 Phazer 144"
2014 viper, mpi
2009 Phazer 144"
MCApex44
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I'll have to check and see once I get to it. The way it presently sits...Allen did mention that after I get miles on a new (8dn) belt that I may need to add a thin shim. I wonder how much I will need to shim (or adjust the osp adjuster) considering I throw on a new belt at the beginning of every season and only do 1500+/- miles each season.
Not much mc. I would leave that plate on unless using the adjuster. Those screw used stock really take a pounding and you would be digging out aluminum when they hit.
Blue Dave
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As we determined a page earlier in this thread, if you are running the OSP adjustment tool on a stock (non machined) secondary then there is absolutely no benefit to removing the plate. The plate is NOT the contact point when the secondary clutch is fully closed.
Because there seems to be some confusion on plate removal it is important that nobody removes the plate if they are running the OEM set-up with the three adjustment bolts and washers on the back side of the clutch. As Cannondale pointed out, the plate needs to be there on the OEM set up or those three adjustment bolts will dig into the aluminum.
If Ulmer is machining under the plate as Cannondale posted then perhaps there is no scenario which requires the plate to be removed. Perhaps Cannondale can elaborate further on this.
I had my secondary machined by Ulmer as well. I like gadgets myself, but I see no need to repeatedly adjust my deflection so I just picked up some extra shims. Saves readjusting every time a clutch change is made. It's not that difficult to remove the secondary and pop 3 bolts out, add washers and reinstall. I have 1.5mm of washer in mine right now. Next step is 2.0 then 2.5 and if I keep the belt long enough then I would remove the bolts to get the 3.0 equivalent. I did opt for the quick belt change tool. I really like that idea.
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