Some fun testing - motec sidewinder

[Brent68]

Anything further happening with this build?

Yes, just getting ready to switch back to winter mode. I’ve been focused on my car project, had a blast with it all summer!

On this build, the engine internals have been fully upgraded. Head has been ported and polished. Custom grind cams have been installed. All valves have been Swain coated. Header has been modified to work with the big turbo. Installed a 4 bar map, upgraded the inter cooler. New drive shaft, drivers, and track. Installed srx springs on all shocks. I will post pictures soon. Bring on winter!

 

[cannondale27]

View attachment 149769
Yes, just getting ready to switch back to winter mode. I’ve been focused on my car project, had a blast with it all summer!

On this build, the engine internals have been fully upgraded. Head has been ported and polished. Custom grind cams have been installed. All valves have been Swain coated. Header has been modified to work with the big turbo. Installed a 4 bar map, upgraded the inter cooler. New drive shaft, drivers, and track. Installed srx springs on all shocks. I will post pictures soon. Bring on winter!

Really interested in your feedback on the Winder springs. Did it lower the rear noticeably?

 

[Brent68]

Really interested in your feedback on the Winder springs. Did it lower the rear noticeably?

I couldn’t really notice the rear height. However, the front A arm angle now matches the SRX.

 

[Brent68]

Just about ready for final assembly, and thought it would be worth posting a few things I learned on this build.
1. If you have to bleed the brakes, forget about trying to use the conventional method. The only why I was able to get them to bleed was to completely remove the bleed fitting and then use a syringe to push brake fluid through the line and into the reservoir.
2. Make sure to check alignment of the brake line for proper clearance from secondary.
3. When filling the coolant, you have to top it off a number of times. It helped speed the process when I raised the front of the sled.
4. When fitting the TD header you will need to trim the heat shield on the tunnel. Notice I added heat shielding after cutting out the required section on the PTO side of the heat shield. See the pictures.
5. The mid-pipe heat shield needs to be reshaped a little to make the lower mounting holes line up.
6. The studs in the head, used to hold the header, are M9X1.25. This is a very hard to find bolt size. After finding them, I did go with bolts (allen cap screws) on 4 of the six holes. It greatly speeds installation and removal. Not sure this change was necessary, how many times will I be removing the header....hopefully never!
7. I'm debating on whether or not to add a little extra heat shielding on the header at the intersection of the tunnel and mid pipe heat shield....see pic below.
8. The big custom ground cams idle very smooth. I expected a rough idle, nice surprise.
9. Jet Hot works very well for coating the muffler. You can't put your hand on it after running, but it's significantly cooler than without the coating.
10. Piston/rod oil squirters in the block interfere with the carrillo rods and must be adjusted.

 

[sledding rocks]

Just about ready for final assembly, and thought it would be worth posting a few things I learned on this build.
1. If you have to bleed the breaks, forget about trying to use the conventional method. The only why I was able to get them to bleed was to completely remove the bleed fitting and then use a syringe to push brake fluid through the line and into the reservoir.
2. Make sure to check alignment of the brake line for proper clearance from secondary.
3. When filling the coolant, you have to top it off a number of times. It helped speed the process when I raised the front of the sled.
4. When fitting the TD header you will need to trim the heat shield on the tunnel. Notice I added heat shielding after cutting out the required section on the PTO side of the heat shield. See the pictures.
5. The mid-pipe heat shield needs to be reshaped a little to make the lower mounting holes line up.
6. The studs in the head, used to hold the header, are M9X1.25. This is a very hard to find bolt size. After finding them, I did go with bolts (allen cap screws) on 4 of the six holes. It greatly speeds installation and removal. Not sure this change was necessary, how many times will I be removing the header....hopefully never!
7. I'm debating on whether or not to add a little extra heat shielding on the header at the intersection of the tunnel and mid pipe heat shield....see pic below.
8. The big custom ground cams idle very smooth. I expected a rough idle, nice surprise.
9. Jet Hot works very well for coating the muffler. You can't put your hand on it after running, but it's significantly cooler than without the coating.
10. Piston/rod oil squirters in the block interfere with the carrillo rods and must be adjusted.
View attachment 150584 View attachment 150585 View attachment 150586 View attachment 150587 View attachment 150588

the td header is a nice clean fit , plus u will have lots of clearance between the header and gas tank , like u said the heat shields needs to be worked to line the bolts up properly

 

[ClutchMaster]

Just about ready for final assembly, and thought it would be worth posting a few things I learned on this build.
1. If you have to bleed the breaks, forget about trying to use the conventional method. The only why I was able to get them to bleed was to completely remove the bleed fitting and then use a syringe to push brake fluid through the line and into the reservoir.
2. Make sure to check alignment of the brake line for proper clearance from secondary.
3. When filling the coolant, you have to top it off a number of times. It helped speed the process when I raised the front of the sled.
4. When fitting the TD header you will need to trim the heat shield on the tunnel. Notice I added heat shielding after cutting out the required section on the PTO side of the heat shield. See the pictures.
5. The mid-pipe heat shield needs to be reshaped a little to make the lower mounting holes line up.
6. The studs in the head, used to hold the header, are M9X1.25. This is a very hard to find bolt size. After finding them, I did go with bolts (allen cap screws) on 4 of the six holes. It greatly speeds installation and removal. Not sure this change was necessary, how many times will I be removing the header....hopefully never!
7. I'm debating on whether or not to add a little extra heat shielding on the header at the intersection of the tunnel and mid pipe heat shield....see pic below.
8. The big custom ground cams idle very smooth. I expected a rough idle, nice surprise.
9. Jet Hot works very well for coating the muffler. You can't put your hand on it after running, but it's significantly cooler than without the coating.
10. Piston/rod oil squirters in the block interfere with the carrillo rods and must be adjusted.
View attachment 150584 View attachment 150585 View attachment 150586 View attachment 150587 View attachment 150588

Top Notch installation! Love your attention to detail.
Nice work!

 

[Brent68]

Getting some data to compare last year to this year. Notice rpm and injector duty cycle at same boost (115 kpa). Injector duty cycle is up 8.8 points and rpm is up 600. Clutching is exactly the same as last year. 14% more fuel being used at the same boost. Solid indication the engine is processing air more efficiently and it's making more power....cams, header, and head work do make a difference. Wish I could provide feed back which one helped the most. Shortly I will turn it up to a max power pump gas tune, slightly over 20 psi. Just want a little more time on the engine.

Nice to be back on the snow!

 

[ClutchMaster]

Wow 600 rpm and 14% more fuel! Solid gains, you have to be happy about that!
What is your target rpm?
Those cams and porting are really working good!
Congrats, CM

 

[Brent68]

Wow 600 rpm and 14% more fuel! Solid gains, you have to be happy about that!
What is your target rpm?
Those cams and porting are really working good!
Congrats, CM

Thanks. Yeah, target rpm. It’s kind of a guess for me because I’m not using a dyno to tune. This is going to be the snow version of street tuning a car. Based on the increased duration and lift of cams, the peak hp will be higher. To start I’m going to target 9400. After I get the tune set, I will use the TD gps timer and set the final rpm to what provided the quickest acceleration.

 

[74Nitro]

Thanks. Yeah, target rpm. It’s kind of a guess for me because I’m not using a dyno to tune. This is going to be the snow version of street tuning a car. Based on the increased duration and lift of cams, the peak hp will be higher. To start I’m going to target 9400. After I get the tune set, I will use the TD gps timer and set the final rpm to what provided the quickest acceleration.

It was my understanding that a boosted engine doesn't need increased duration(more overlap) the same as a NA engine. Or does the increased duration not result in more overlap?

 

[NYTurbo]

What cams are you using?

 

[74Nitro]

Nice results btw and thanks for sharing.

 

[Brent68]

It was my understanding that a boosted engine doesn't need increased duration(more overlap) the same as a NA engine. Or does the increased duration not result in more overlap?

You’re correct in most cases overlap doesn’t help with a boosted engine. That said, overlap and duration are two different measurements in a cam. You can increase duration without affecting overlap. This cam grind actually has more duration and less overlap than stock.

 

[74Nitro]

You’re correct in most cases overlap doesn’t help with a boosted engine. That said, overlap and duration are two different measurements in a cam. You can increase duration without affecting overlap. This cam grind actually has more duration and less overlap than stock.

Thanks.

 

[Brent68]

What cams are you using?

They are from Tommcat performance. He developed his own with the help of Webb cams.