Space behind primary?

[sxr70001]

Nice Find!

 

[Soupy]

Press the bearing to place in the bearing house and the shaft will follow with the bearing.

Looking at the gap from the bearing outer race to the housing pictured, I agree that the shaft/bearing got pushed in. How do I press the bearing back into the housing with that seal in the way? Pressing on the end of the shaft, which then presses on the inner race, didn't seem like a very good idea to me, or is that how it's done?

 

[Big_Phil]

My dealer talked about a change in 15 I think it was? I know he said it was some change the same yr the vipers had the rod or crank recall thing. Maybe he will chime in. But that was when something was changed to make the new engine easy to be used in other power sports.

Your dealer is mistaken, the stub shaft is there on all the 4 stroke 3 cylinders. You cant mount a clutch right to the crank on these engines or it would destroy the crank bearings.

 

[Sevey]

Looking at the gap from the bearing outer race to the housing pictured, I agree that the shaft/bearing got pushed in. How do I press the bearing back into the housing with that seal in the way? Pressing on the end of the shaft, which then presses on the inner race, didn't seem like a very good idea to me, or is that how it's done?

I had overhauled my shaft assembly on the nytro 2 summers ago. I think you are kind of cooked here to get that bearing pushed into the housing to snug it up. Once you start pressing on that bearing even if you can get at it, you risk damaging it. You may have to buy a new seal and bearing and start from scratch.
Cut seal - press shaft out of bearing - then press bearing out of housing.
I had some special pieces of pipes cut to help hold the assembly and push on the bearing and shaft to get it in there - it was fun.
MS
MS

 

[Sevey]

Your dealer is mistaken, the stub shaft is there on all the 4 stroke 3 cylinders. You cant mount a clutch right to the crank on these engines or it would destroy the crank bearings.

Thanks for picking up on this. This type of design has been on all 1049's and now the new 998's. It has been around for awhile.
MS

 

[ClutchMaster]

Looking at the gap from the bearing outer race to the housing pictured, I agree that the shaft/bearing got pushed in. How do I press the bearing back into the housing with that seal in the way? Pressing on the end of the shaft, which then presses on the inner race, didn't seem like a very good idea to me, or is that how it's done?

It’s a thrust rated bearing I would not worry about it, just push it back in.

 

[ClutchMaster]

They should have made the bearing housing a little longer and put an internal snap ring to prevent this. My frickin Boggie wheels atleast have that!

 

[Soupy]

Is it possible that this couldve been making excessive heat in the clutch?

 

[staggs65]

Let's keep this on track guys. I've had to delete more posts than there are left. Not exactly how I wanted to spend my lunch break

 

[Beerman]

Is it possible that this couldve been making excessive heat in the clutch?

I would think yes. I have same issue but haven't removed the stub shaft yet, per recommendation from @sj I got some SS bolts with a shallower head that won't rub the backside of the clutch. Dumb question, how do you get the stub shaft assembly out once you remove the 4 bolts? Slide hammer?

 

[Beerman]

What do you mean by that

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@**sj** got bolts with a shallower hex head for added clearance, I did the same as the back of my primary looks just like the one pictured in the beginning of this thread. Planning to deal with this after the season is over.

 

[Soupy]

I would think yes. I have same issue but haven't removed the stub shaft yet, per recommendation from @sj I got some SS bolts with a shallower head that won't rub the backside of the clutch. Dumb question, how do you get the stub shaft assembly out once you remove the 4 bolts? Slide hammer?

Yes, convert clutch bolt to slide hammer, it should come right out. The fact that shorter head bolts are needed should be a red flag.

 

[Sevey]

I would think yes. I have same issue but haven't removed the stub shaft yet, per recommendation from @sj I got some SS bolts with a shallower head that won't rub the backside of the clutch. Dumb question, how do you get the stub shaft assembly out once you remove the 4 bolts? Slide hammer?

I heated the housing up good with the heat gun and used some penetrating oil. It come off easily with the slide hammer.
Ms

 

[saskattakman]

so looks like to tell if this shaft has moved is to just remove the primary and see if there is any gap between bearing and housing?

 

[Soupy]

so looks like to tell if this shaft has moved is to just remove the primary and see if there is any gap between bearing and housing?

From what I can see the shaft could also slide out of the bearing as well.