Space behind primary?

[KnappAttack]

I sure hope that fixes your belt slinging machine up! You've been thru enough with it already.

 

[Beerman]

I removed my stub shaft assembly and used a bench top press to push the stub bearing back against the outer housing. Thanks to @ClutchMaster for the help. I'll reinstall clutches tomorrow and re-measure offset. With ~262.5mm c-to-c @ClutchMaster recommends a 57 - 58mm offset, I'm not sure I can get that low but will see.

 

[Soupy]

I removed my stub shaft assembly and used a bench top press to push the stub bearing back against the outer housing. Thanks to @ClutchMaster for the help. I'll reinstall clutches tomorrow and re-measure offset. With ~262.5mm c-to-c @ClutchMaster recommends a 57 - 58mm offset, I'm not sure I can get that low but will see.

He's exactly right. Pics attached of a pretty crazy mockup I did tonight. It was a test to see if the belt was running parallel with the secondary when shifted. I found that I need about 57.5mm offset to run true. Had to machine the back side of my secondary, you might need to as well but pressing the stub shaft back out will certainly help. The only drawback I can find is that the belt will rub on the inner primary sheave at idle and possibly create heat. You can also increase your belts ride height in the secondary to help at engagement with the short c to c you have. Mine is 261.5mm and the primary was moving about 1/8" before the secondary would begin to shift.

It was refreshing to see my secondary float for the first time ever now that I think offset is closer to where it needs to be!

 

[ClutchMaster]

Soupy put a wrench on every motor mount and tighten them up just for giggles

 

[stevewithOCD]

Go get 'em SOUP!
You are like a Wolverine attacking a dead Elk carcass..........with duct tape
You are the most persistent Belt Blowing Bastard i've ever seen. We may have to re-name you Triple B or B Cubed.
I can't believe YOU haven't exploded yet.
I really hope you get it good enough to enjoy your trip coming up 'cuz this sled really is fun.

WE are going to learn a TON when you have this fixed........if you don't strangle someone & end up in jail first

HANG IN THERE SOUP!!!!!

 

[actionjack]

Is there anyone else who remotely has as bad of a belt problem as Soupy?
Doesn’t machining the back of secondary in combination with being one of very few extreme belt blowers suggest something like the motor is simply in the wrong place relative to the centerline of the sled?
Or even axially maybe the motor is canted or rolled askew a bit.

 

[Soupy]

Go get 'em SOUP!
You are like a Wolverine attacking a dead Elk carcass..........with duct tape
You are the most persistent Belt Blowing Bastard i've ever seen. We may have to re-name you Triple B or B Cubed.
I can't believe YOU haven't exploded yet.
I really hope you get it good enough to enjoy your trip coming up 'cuz this sled really is fun.

WE are going to learn a TON when you have this fixed........if you don't strangle someone & end up in jail first

HANG IN THERE SOUP!!!!!

I have a pretty good support group lol, a 4 yr old who has taught me patience and a pretty good dealer. I absolutely love the sled with the exception of the belt issue, so I'm persistent. I hope to put some of this back on Yamaha once resolved but obviously need to be armed with the proper info. I really appreciate everyone's help!

 

[ClutchMaster]

Is there anyone else who remotely has as bad of a belt problem as Soupy?
Doesn’t machining the back of secondary in combination with being one of very few extreme belt blowers suggest something like the motor is simply in the wrong place relative to the centerline of the sled?
Or even axially maybe the motor is canted or rolled askew a bit.

Well Soupy has checked all his alignment so everything is relative to the jackshaft. But there is one more check that I have never seen off so I don’t always check it. That would be checking the level of the motor in reference to the jackshaft.
Use a quality machinist square like a starett not a hardware store tee square. Place the tee square on the non movable sheave, same place you measured offset too. It will probably not read level, if not level jack up the low side of the sled until it reads level. Now take the square and place it on the primarys machined surface right next too the cover bolts. You may need to turn the primary so one of the slide towers are are in the correct position for measuring. If you use a good square it will be very accurate. I have never seen this measurement off far enough to worry about other than crashed sleds, but it’s worth checking on Soupy’s.

 

[ClutchMaster]

 

[shagman]

View attachment 138294

Hey. That looks just like mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ClutchMaster]

Place tee square where arrows are pointing. Keep the square as vertical as you can.
Obvious you want identical readings.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

What is easiest method to pull the shaft back outward? Anyone try to use the primary large bolt?

My offset is near impossible to get below 60mm, My primary is not quite hitting the cap bolts like SOUPYs was but it has moved in enough that I cannot get offset down to 58mm.

Dan

 

[Soupy]

First check for approx .200 clearance between primary sheave and water pump on the motor, like in the first posts of this thread. That'll tell you if the stub shaft needs to be pressed out or not. I tried a slide hammer on the clutch bolt to no avail. Others have removed the #*$&@'y and used a press to push it back into the bearing housing.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

My bolts are not hitting, but are close. Ill check a bunch more measurements tomorrow. But it sure seems it will be tough to get down even close to 58mm.

Also I notice the secondary(after machining) will be very close to hitting the bearing bracket(pic below) at full shift, since the bearing/circlip is set inward into that bracket quite abit. Im having several shims made so I can put it wherever I want.

Dan

 

[Soupy]

No point in pulling the stub shaft #*$&@'y if the problem is with the motor or chassis.