TD Max Pump 17 Issues

[actionjack]

If you are not going to run Powertrail or higher I would start with the 70g Dalton weights. Although maybe my low RPMs are partly due to the 1.6 track. Just my experience so far at 1150 miles.

 

[Blue Dave]

I am about to install my 3 bar MAP sensor. Can anyone please tell me where this sensor is located on the Sidewinder?

 

[34pontiac]

Second one from the left if you're standing in front of sled has a hose coming out the bottom of it

 

[Blue Dave]

Thanks!~ That is exactly correct. Second from the left as you are looking into the nose of the sled from the front.

 

[Blue Dave]

I installed the Turbo Smart BOV and the GAP 3 Bar MAP sensor then loaded my new Max Spool 17 tune yesterday. All I can say is wow! Unbelievable pull from any speed all the way up to 130 MPH. I need more studs for sure now. I got out of and back into the throttle hard at 100 mph and the back end tried to go sideways on me. This thing is truly a wicked beast!

I have the TD CAI, TD Turbo Force muffler, Dalton DTYA-1 weights @ 76 g, black - green primary spring, black - orange secondary spring, the stock helix is wrapped to 70 degrees (6 - 1). I am running the stock belt & stock gearing. I have 144 1.500" studs down the middle of my stock 137" 1.25" lug track.

With a full tank of fresh 93 octane plus 16 oz of Torco I had no knock indications during multiple long pulls at 125+ mph. RPM's were 8900 - 9100 consistently. Now I just need to figure out the datalogging option that I purchased so I can look at my runs in detail.

I switched sleds with a buddy and rode his new (just out of break in period) completely stock Doo 850 Renegade. The 850 was real snappy and had a top end of 120 mph on the speedo but it lacked the torque of my Winder. When we would race from any speed the Winder would destroy the Doo which should be expected considering the HP difference.

I will be doing some more "testing" (racing) today and I will try to remember to bring my infrared temp gun to check clutch temps which I forgot to do yesterday. As I said earlier, if any of you are on the fence about tuning up your Winder you won't regret going with TD. Best products and customer service money can buy IMO.

 

[@123]

I installed the Turbo Smart BOV and the GAP 3 Bar MAP sensor then loaded my new Max Spool 17 tune yesterday. All I can say is wow! Unbelievable pull from any speed all the way up to 130 MPH. I need more studs for sure now. I got out of and back into the throttle hard at 100 mph and the back end tried to go sideways on me. This thing is truly a wicked beast!

I have the TD CAI, TD Turbo Force muffler, Dalton DTYA-1 weights @ 76 g, black - green primary spring, black - orange secondary spring, the stock helix is wrapped to 70 degrees (6 - 1). I am running the stock belt & stock gearing. I have 144 1.500" studs down the middle of my stock 137" 1.25" lug track.

With a full tank of fresh 93 octane plus 16 oz of Torco I had no knock indications during multiple long pulls at 125+ mph. RPM's were 8900 - 9100 consistently. Now I just need to figure out the datalogging option that I purchased so I can look at my runs in detail.

I switched sleds with a buddy and rode his new (just out of break in period) completely stock Doo 850 Renegade. The 850 was real snappy and had a top end of 120 mph on the speedo but it lacked the torque of my Winder. When we would race from any speed the Winder would destroy the Doo which should be expected considering the HP difference.

I will be doing some more "testing" (racing) today and I will try to remember to bring my infrared temp gun to check clutch temps which I forgot to do yesterday. As I said earlier, if any of you are on the fence about tuning up your Winder you won't regret going with TD. Best products and customer service money can buy IMO.

question where did you put the set screw tip or heel?

 

[Blue Dave]

question where did you put the set screw tip or heel?

The set screws are bottomed out at the end of the threaded holes which is the tip end of the weight.

 

[@123]

The set screws are bottomed out at the end of the threaded holes which is the tip end of the weight.

k thks!!!! i just order a set so , i never played with those weight before

 

[Fleecer]

Dave,
Great write up. I'm running a 22t top gear and at half throttle will net 112 mph on speedo. When you give it the other half, oh my goodness...the sweet note coming out of that pipe, then the sled squats, the skis come off the snow, and the thing just plain turns violent!!! I absolutely love it!!! Best part..... trail riding will net 15mpg even with some routine flogging!!! It certainly is a great time to be alive!!! Lol. TD Rocks!!

 

[@123]

do you

I installed the Turbo Smart BOV and the GAP 3 Bar MAP sensor then loaded my new Max Spool 17 tune yesterday. All I can say is wow! Unbelievable pull from any speed all the way up to 130 MPH. I need more studs for sure now. I got out of and back into the throttle hard at 100 mph and the back end tried to go sideways on me. This thing is truly a wicked beast!

I have the TD CAI, TD Turbo Force muffler, Dalton DTYA-1 weights @ 76 g, black - green primary spring, black - orange secondary spring, the stock helix is wrapped to 70 degrees (6 - 1). I am running the stock belt & stock gearing. I have 144 1.500" studs down the middle of my stock 137" 1.25" lug track.

With a full tank of fresh 93 octane plus 16 oz of Torco I had no knock indications during multiple long pulls at 125+ mph. RPM's were 8900 - 9100 consistently. Now I just need to figure out the datalogging option that I purchased so I can look at my runs in detail.

I switched sleds with a buddy and rode his new (just out of break in period) completely stock Doo 850 Renegade. The 850 was real snappy and had a top end of 120 mph on the speedo but it lacked the torque of my Winder. When we would race from any speed the Winder would destroy the Doo which should be expected considering the HP difference.

I will be doing some more "testing" (racing) today and I will try to remember to bring my infrared temp gun to check clutch temps which I forgot to do yesterday. As I said earlier, if any of you are on the fence about tuning up your Winder you won't regret going with TD. Best products and customer service money can buy IMO.

do you run your stock helix shimmed or not?

 

[Blue Dave]

Stock helix no shim.

 

[Soupy]

He's running an aftermarket secondary spring so probably doesn't need helix shimmed.

 

[74Nitro]

I believe I'm being haunted by a gremlin and would be interested in hearing input in developing a path forward in hopefully finding a cure. First a little history:

2017 Yamaha Sidewinder RTX SE with 2200 miles, bought brand new last winter, put TD Eco Trail Flash with a SQ muffler. For clutching I ran Dalton QAY-70 weights loaded with the 1 inch allen (4.1 grams) for a total of 74.1 grams. Springs/helix everything else stock except for updated torlon rollers in rear secondary. Sled would spin 9000-9100, once in a while if hot running is soft snow might drop to 8900. Sled ran flawless all winter and was a blast.

This year I loaded TD Max Pump 17 and also a CAI and OSP Racing muffler which is basically the same as a TD Turboforce. Per Ben's instructions I loaded Qay-70s to the hilt at 77.4. Would only spin 8300, so dropped weights a gram to 76.3, would spin 8400, dropped weights another gram to 75.4 and added stiffer secondary spring (TPI orange) and would spin 8700. Bear in mind, I know this thing isn't right so I'm holding it 4-5 seconds and letting go as it doesn't feel right. In my head I'm thinking the sled feels no different than last year and my butt dyno is telling that this thing isn't making the claimed 285 hp as it should.

So this morning I figured I'd go back to basics and eliminate some variables. I set sled up just like I had it last winter, SQ muffler, stock airbox, Dalton weights loaded to 74.1 grams, stock springs and stock helix. Took sled out for some testing and assumed this thing should be banging off the rev limiter!! To my dismay, would only pull 8700 rpm. It's turning 3-400 rpm less than last years Eco trail????? WTF??? I'm making less power???

So......I'm thinking I must have a boost leak. I removed all the panels, checked......double checked... and then triple checked all the hoses, clamps, air box, intercooler, and can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary. I was thinking perhaps the BOV crapped out so I removed it, checked the plunger and all looks legit. I pushed on the spring valve and it needed a very healthy push with my thumb to get it to open.....so I'm thinking this looks to be sufficient also.

I could take it to the dealer, but he'll blame it on the tune. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should go next?

 

[74Nitro]

I believe I'm being haunted by a gremlin and would be interested in hearing input in developing a path forward in hopefully finding a cure. First a little history:

2017 Yamaha Sidewinder RTX SE with 2200 miles, bought brand new last winter, put TD Eco Trail Flash with a SQ muffler. For clutching I ran Dalton QAY-70 weights loaded with the 1 inch allen (4.1 grams) for a total of 74.1 grams. Springs/helix everything else stock except for updated torlon rollers in rear secondary. Sled would spin 9000-9100, once in a while if hot running is soft snow might drop to 8900. Sled ran flawless all winter and was a blast.

This year I loaded TD Max Pump 17 and also a CAI and OSP Racing muffler which is basically the same as a TD Turboforce. Per Ben's instructions I loaded Qay-70s to the hilt at 77.4. Would only spin 8300, so dropped weights a gram to 76.3, would spin 8400, dropped weights another gram to 75.4 and added stiffer secondary spring (TPI orange) and would spin 8700. Bear in mind, I know this thing isn't right so I'm holding it 4-5 seconds and letting go as it doesn't feel right. In my head I'm thinking the sled feels no different than last year and my butt dyno is telling that this thing isn't making the claimed 285 hp as it should.

So this morning I figured I'd go back to basics and eliminate some variables. I set sled up just like I had it last winter, SQ muffler, stock airbox, Dalton weights loaded to 74.1 grams, stock springs and stock helix. Took sled out for some testing and assumed this thing should be banging off the rev limiter!! To my dismay, would only pull 8700 rpm. It's turning 3-400 rpm less than last years Eco trail????? WTF??? I'm making less power???

So......I'm thinking I must have a boost leak. I removed all the panels, checked......double checked... and then triple checked all the hoses, clamps, air box, intercooler, and can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary. I was thinking perhaps the BOV crapped out so I removed it, checked the plunger and all looks legit. I pushed on the spring valve and it needed a very healthy push with my thumb to get it to open.....so I'm thinking this looks to be sufficient also.

I could take it to the dealer, but he'll blame it on the tune. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should go next?

I believe I'm being haunted by a gremlin and would be interested in hearing input in developing a path forward in hopefully finding a cure. First a little history:

2017 Yamaha Sidewinder RTX SE with 2200 miles, bought brand new last winter, put TD Eco Trail Flash with a SQ muffler. For clutching I ran Dalton QAY-70 weights loaded with the 1 inch allen (4.1 grams) for a total of 74.1 grams. Springs/helix everything else stock except for updated torlon rollers in rear secondary. Sled would spin 9000-9100, once in a while if hot running is soft snow might drop to 8900. Sled ran flawless all winter and was a blast.

This year I loaded TD Max Pump 17 and also a CAI and OSP Racing muffler which is basically the same as a TD Turboforce. Per Ben's instructions I loaded Qay-70s to the hilt at 77.4. Would only spin 8300, so dropped weights a gram to 76.3, would spin 8400, dropped weights another gram to 75.4 and added stiffer secondary spring (TPI orange) and would spin 8700. Bear in mind, I know this thing isn't right so I'm holding it 4-5 seconds and letting go as it doesn't feel right. In my head I'm thinking the sled feels no different than last year and my butt dyno is telling that this thing isn't making the claimed 285 hp as it should.

So this morning I figured I'd go back to basics and eliminate some variables. I set sled up just like I had it last winter, SQ muffler, stock airbox, Dalton weights loaded to 74.1 grams, stock springs and stock helix. Took sled out for some testing and assumed this thing should be banging off the rev limiter!! To my dismay, would only pull 8700 rpm. It's turning 3-400 rpm less than last years Eco trail????? WTF??? I'm making less power???

So......I'm thinking I must have a boost leak. I removed all the panels, checked......double checked... and then triple checked all the hoses, clamps, air box, intercooler, and can't seem to find anything out of the ordinary. I was thinking perhaps the BOV crapped out so I removed it, checked the plunger and all looks legit. I pushed on the spring valve and it needed a very healthy push with my thumb to get it to open.....so I'm thinking this looks to be sufficient also.

I could take it to the dealer, but he'll blame it on the tune. Does anyone have any ideas on where I should go next?

I ran powertrail with SQ and DTYA-1's empty for most of winter, sled ran great, used 8DN belt. RPM's about 8800-8900
I uploaded MAX 17 before the snow left last week, left everything else unchanged. RPM's stayed the same, it was hard to tell if the sled was faster or not.

 

[DMCTurbo]

I ran powertrail with SQ and DTYA-1's empty for most of winter, sled ran great, used 8DN belt. RPM's about 8800-8900
I uploaded MAX 17 before the snow left last week, left everything else unchanged. RPM's stayed the same, it was hard to tell if the sled was faster or not.

I just went through the exact same thing. My stock bov was leaking at 15.4lbs. How I found this out is after discussions with TD and 1100saber I reversed my bov and my boost went up to high 16s which is as high as the stock map sensor reads. I purchased a TS bov and all is good now.