UP bushman
VIP Member
Hey riders thanks for the feedback on the product always good to here others results. I plan on keeping my MTX for a long time to come as many others plan to do the same. With that being said the effort is to make a one time long lasting cost effective product that will last. TY is a great info site and the users are great to deal with thanks again Rob.
marpolsdofer
TY 4 Stroke Guru
So this is what I got for a evaluation so far. I got about 150 mi on them. 36 mi on the track and the rest is practicing, jumping, and bashing the front end of my sled were it should not go (especially this sled). They were still tight and felling good. I had the front end removed yesterday to replay that bold. The bolt was striped when I put it together for the race. So I took the bushing out and inspected them. They still looked new besides the grim and grease that I never got off from the posts, so it carried over with it. As of right now I have the stock bushing back in there. I had them set aside for the night and my day moved them. The garage is a really mass and full of carp, I will be lucky if I can find it, if my dad put them in a scrap metal bucket.
I think they will hold for the long haul, they should be able to take the abuse as well. The bolts will go before the bushings, seeing how I broke a few of them.
I will post a video of some of the stuff I have done while I had them in. There will be no race footage I accidentally left the SD card in the other camera.
I would like to continue testing them. However, I am am trying to secure a SP 600 for next season. I twas my fault for riding one and want to get back on one. So the phazer will have to go to pay for the sled.
I think they will hold for the long haul, they should be able to take the abuse as well. The bolts will go before the bushings, seeing how I broke a few of them.
I will post a video of some of the stuff I have done while I had them in. There will be no race footage I accidentally left the SD card in the other camera.
I would like to continue testing them. However, I am am trying to secure a SP 600 for next season. I twas my fault for riding one and want to get back on one. So the phazer will have to go to pay for the sled.
UP bushman
VIP Member
Hey riders did another inspection of the product and still looking great. I did have some more play in the bars and noticed the nut in the picture attatched came loose. The clip that Yamaha puts in there is a joke to prevent the nut from backing off. I did not have time to get another nut to double nut the thing I wanted to ride and will do that later. Tightened it up and back to the tightness I'm used to and the sled does have almost 6000 miles on it not so bad.
Attachments
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
That is good news - I got mine today. So when reassembling do I put blue Locktite on all the bolts? I couldn't get the tierods knocked off the pivots (difficult to access) so I had to loosen the arms from the spindles and then from the pivot assembly.
UP bushman
VIP Member
UP bushman said:Hey riders did another inspection of the product and still looking great. I did have some more play in the bars and noticed the nut in the picture attatched came loose. The clip that Yamaha puts in there is a joke to prevent the nut from backing off. I did not have time to get another nut to double nut the thing I wanted to ride and will do that later. Tightened it up and back to the tightness I'm used to and the sled does have almost 6000 miles on it not so bad.
BombaPolaYama said:That is good news - I got mine today. So when reassembling do I put blue Locktite on all the bolts? I couldn't get the tierods knocked off the pivots (difficult to access) so I had to loosen the arms from the spindles and then from the pivot assembly.
When I checked the bolt and nuts on the steering pivot arm assy. where the bushing kit is installed they were still tight. In the long run a bit of loctite never hurts, there is a pin on the bolts but if the nut were to back off it would do the same thing as listed above in picture on subframe.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Upbushman,
I noticed in the diagram you sent with the kit there are a lot of points where grease/light oil should be added. Is that indicating to grease the tierod ends/knuckles or some other points?
thanks,
I noticed in the diagram you sent with the kit there are a lot of points where grease/light oil should be added. Is that indicating to grease the tierod ends/knuckles or some other points?
thanks,
kodak
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
bomba that pic comes from manual cannondale haS IT POsted in sticky it show grease for bushings old plastic ones but I think you are placing ulmers one in. but up knows more than me.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
I think I got it figured out now. What I thought was requiring light oil is indicating threadlocker (Locktite) - ahah!kodak said:bomba that pic comes from manual cannondale haS IT POsted in sticky it show grease for bushings old plastic ones but I think you are placing ulmers one in. but up knows more than me.
I'm doing both bushing kits the A-arms and the pivot assembly. I still see slop though above the pivot assy either in the triangular bracket where the tierod attaches on the right side or in the steering block just below the handle bars. I believe ther is an aftermarket thing for that as well - Oft racing maybe.
kodak
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
yes oft should have mine any day now will let you know how it works out.
UP bushman
VIP Member
Hey there riders thanks for the interest in the product and support. I will be adding a washer kit for the top of the steering pivot assy. with the existing kit and they are available if your interested.
kodak
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I"m interested just wondering if you will post some install pics for us and post price or pm me when you figure out the details . Yamaha should hook you up with a phaz for helping to make their product better . love my yam but plastic bushings break my heart.
UP bushman
VIP Member
Update at beggining of thread.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
2-Shim Washers for under linkage arm for steering pivot arm:
I can't remember if there was slop in mine there or not - are they generally needed? Is it difficult to get the retaining clip back on with the shims installed? Are the shims plastic or metal? What is the cost to buy just the shims if needed and shipping to Canada? Have you considered anything for the triangular bracket on the right side of the steering linkage that a tierod connects to? I noticed up and down slop in mine there.
thanks,
I can't remember if there was slop in mine there or not - are they generally needed? Is it difficult to get the retaining clip back on with the shims installed? Are the shims plastic or metal? What is the cost to buy just the shims if needed and shipping to Canada? Have you considered anything for the triangular bracket on the right side of the steering linkage that a tierod connects to? I noticed up and down slop in mine there.
thanks,
Ruckus
TY 4 Stroke Master
There's a used phazer at the local shop that has so much yamaslop in it is almost funny. I know exactly what it needs though.
BombaPolaYama
TY 4 Stroke Master
Upbushman,BombaPolaYama said:2-Shim Washers for under linkage arm for steering pivot arm:
I can't remember if there was slop in mine there or not - are they generally needed? Is it difficult to get the retaining clip back on with the shims installed? Are the shims plastic or metal? What is the cost to buy just the shims if needed and shipping to Canada? Have you considered anything for the triangular bracket on the right side of the steering linkage that a tierod connects to? I noticed up and down slop in mine there.
thanks,
Questions above, thanks.
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