grizzly660
Extreme
just in time for them to have come up wiht two different tank solutions 
grizzly660
Extreme
so what are the solutions
Scott MacDonald
Newbie
From talking with NWTW this week, nothing has really been started with the developement of their new 10 gal tank yet. The Trail tank showed last year how long things can take when Seth started working on his. Dec-Jan might even be pushing to see tanks ready to go, but I hope not. Myself and a cousin of mine are interested in their stage 1 kits and like the idea of a new molded 10 gal tanks that are not cut and welded. Just anal about things that way I guess.
grizzly660
Extreme
I kind of suspected they would nt be ready in time so I sent my tank to a plastic welding place in california and had it professionally cut and welded. They did a very nice job. I filled with half race fuel and half 91 octane and it held 7 gallons, I am also going to carry an extra 2 gallons on my sled.
BBNytro
Extreme
Stage 1!! I thought we were goin Stage 2!! Eh Scottie
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
That is one awsome looking sled..
grizzly660
Extreme
welterracer said:
Well thanks, but I havent posted any pics of mine yet, haha
ttabs
Extreme
The 2009 season is almost upon us!!!!!!
OK fellas. Looks like the snow is starting to fly in Montana and I'm amazed at what the guys have to ride in just 4 hrs down the road. Soooooo, it's time to fire up the mod shop and get things going for this year!
In the posts to follow, I'm going to go through the entire back end of my Nytro and mod the seat, install a new tunnel dump exhaust I designed this summer, replace the track, and add a new timbersled rear suspension. Also on the agenda, we may have a new gas tank coming specifically designed for the NW Turbo kits that may hopefully give us 8 or more gallons of gas in the main and I've got a great idea for packin' along extra gas. We'll dramatically increase storage space on this machine (something that it desperately needs) and then we'll have a good clutch discussion. There'll be a bunch of little things to mention along the way and a few twists to keep ya thinkin'.
And of course, I'll give a pictorial step by step of what I'm doing and open it up for discussion.
Let's get started for 2009 ..........
OK fellas. Looks like the snow is starting to fly in Montana and I'm amazed at what the guys have to ride in just 4 hrs down the road. Soooooo, it's time to fire up the mod shop and get things going for this year!
In the posts to follow, I'm going to go through the entire back end of my Nytro and mod the seat, install a new tunnel dump exhaust I designed this summer, replace the track, and add a new timbersled rear suspension. Also on the agenda, we may have a new gas tank coming specifically designed for the NW Turbo kits that may hopefully give us 8 or more gallons of gas in the main and I've got a great idea for packin' along extra gas. We'll dramatically increase storage space on this machine (something that it desperately needs) and then we'll have a good clutch discussion. There'll be a bunch of little things to mention along the way and a few twists to keep ya thinkin'.
And of course, I'll give a pictorial step by step of what I'm doing and open it up for discussion.
Let's get started for 2009 ..........
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Sweet, I enjoy reading through your posts. Always lots of good ideas.
ttabs
Extreme
First - here's a little project. How many of you have busted a screw or two on your windshield out in the field. I happen to have three of these things broken off. Yamaha did a poor job of this fastening system. I've decided to make an easy fix here.
First - I went to Lowes and rummaged through their fastener boxes. I found these grommet type GM plugs that polaris used on their old RMK's. I bought a good supply of these ....
I used a 3/8" drill and opened up the holes on the windshield ....
and I popped out the retainers that were in place on the white shroud ....
Now, I simply plug these grommets in and I'm done. If on the trail and I happen to bust one of these, I can practically fix it with my gloves on. Of course I'll pack a few spares. EASY!!!!!!
First - I went to Lowes and rummaged through their fastener boxes. I found these grommet type GM plugs that polaris used on their old RMK's. I bought a good supply of these ....
I used a 3/8" drill and opened up the holes on the windshield ....
and I popped out the retainers that were in place on the white shroud ....
Now, I simply plug these grommets in and I'm done. If on the trail and I happen to bust one of these, I can practically fix it with my gloves on. Of course I'll pack a few spares. EASY!!!!!!
ttabs
Extreme
On my last ride of the season, I destroyed my drivers and I knew that replacing them was going to be a must. Infact, the stock drivers have been quite troublesome to a lot of riders and I've heard more negitive comments about them than I care too. So, if you plan of putting a turbo in your sled, plan on putting a driver replacement on your list of things to do. I got 300 miles on my stockers and they're toast.
Also, the Maverick track has been the root of many complaints. Looking at the design and softness of the paddles, I've decided to replace the track. I'm not throwing the baby out with the bath water though. I'm going to recycle that Maverick and put it on my REV 800 .... BACKWARDS!!!!! It may be a diamond in the rough and I got'sta know. Hey - if it works, we'll all have a hot market to sell our tracks to! eh! I'll be a hero to you all!!!
So, here's where we begin our project .....
We'll replace the drivers, install the track, add on my new exhaust gizmo, and fix up the whole darn tunnel and then we'll turn our attention to the skid and suspension.
To get started, first we need to remove the brakes ....
(What a lousy pic. I'm using a wrench here to loosen the two bolts inback of the caliper.)
A "C" - clip remover will get the rotor off ....
then remove this outer sleeve ...
I then drained the gear oil here ....
I also unhooked the reverse shaft here .....
Then we can remove the chain cover by unscrewing the bolts around the parimeter. Lastly by removing these two screws in the center of the cover will allow the cover to slide off ....
Also, the Maverick track has been the root of many complaints. Looking at the design and softness of the paddles, I've decided to replace the track. I'm not throwing the baby out with the bath water though. I'm going to recycle that Maverick and put it on my REV 800 .... BACKWARDS!!!!! It may be a diamond in the rough and I got'sta know. Hey - if it works, we'll all have a hot market to sell our tracks to! eh! I'll be a hero to you all!!!
So, here's where we begin our project .....
We'll replace the drivers, install the track, add on my new exhaust gizmo, and fix up the whole darn tunnel and then we'll turn our attention to the skid and suspension.
To get started, first we need to remove the brakes ....
(What a lousy pic. I'm using a wrench here to loosen the two bolts inback of the caliper.)
A "C" - clip remover will get the rotor off ....
then remove this outer sleeve ...
I then drained the gear oil here ....
I also unhooked the reverse shaft here .....
Then we can remove the chain cover by unscrewing the bolts around the parimeter. Lastly by removing these two screws in the center of the cover will allow the cover to slide off ....
ttabs
Extreme
Well, when the cover comes off, you may hear things dropping into your cover behind the scene.
I really hate it when that happens!
I found a gear from the center shaft that came off, along with a washer. Then I noticed this little guy .....
I believe this spring goes on the center shaft between the gears to provide separation until you throw the reverse lever. But we'll check the Yami bible to be sure. I'll dig up a blown up version of the gear box for you all to look over. Anyways, there are lots of spacers, washers, collets, and things to keep track of.
Oh yea, remember that post earlier in my thread here mentioning that bolt that is too long and may be backing out of a few Nytros? Well, here's where that thing is located on the bottom shaft ....
Mine was tight and in good shape, but for the record I'll call the dealer and see if there's a fix for it ....
You'll want to check yours soon.
Now with the gears off, I can remove the bearing retainer ....
And head over to the other side of the sled. I removed the 4 bolts in a circular pattern around the shaft and found that the shaft could then be pushed through to expose the bearing and retainer....
It's not an allen head that holds it in place. Instead, it's one of those star bits (I call'em) and there are two of them to go after ....
Someone I'm sure will help me out with the name of them evil things ... lol
Once you loosen the two screws, the bearing assembly will slide off allowing you free access to remove the drive shaft.
I really hate it when that happens!
I found a gear from the center shaft that came off, along with a washer. Then I noticed this little guy .....
I believe this spring goes on the center shaft between the gears to provide separation until you throw the reverse lever. But we'll check the Yami bible to be sure. I'll dig up a blown up version of the gear box for you all to look over. Anyways, there are lots of spacers, washers, collets, and things to keep track of.
Oh yea, remember that post earlier in my thread here mentioning that bolt that is too long and may be backing out of a few Nytros? Well, here's where that thing is located on the bottom shaft ....
Mine was tight and in good shape, but for the record I'll call the dealer and see if there's a fix for it ....
You'll want to check yours soon.
Now with the gears off, I can remove the bearing retainer ....
And head over to the other side of the sled. I removed the 4 bolts in a circular pattern around the shaft and found that the shaft could then be pushed through to expose the bearing and retainer....
It's not an allen head that holds it in place. Instead, it's one of those star bits (I call'em) and there are two of them to go after ....
Someone I'm sure will help me out with the name of them evil things ... lol
Once you loosen the two screws, the bearing assembly will slide off allowing you free access to remove the drive shaft.
ttabs
Extreme
Now with the left side bearing removed, my drive shave could wiggle out and presto - here's a major problem with our stock drivers .....
I'm not sure what the story is behind these things other than they cannot handle the power of a turbo. That ground in pattern on the driver lugs caused a very annoying vibration and also malaligned my track. While I managed to realign my track, the vibration persisted and I felt a significant loss of power. It wasn't until I got the sled back on a trailer that I noticed this problem.
I'll do the diver replacement for ya next and then we'll reinstall the drive shaft with the new track. It'll be interesting to see if I can get that gear box back together with no left over parts.
I'm not sure what the story is behind these things other than they cannot handle the power of a turbo. That ground in pattern on the driver lugs caused a very annoying vibration and also malaligned my track. While I managed to realign my track, the vibration persisted and I felt a significant loss of power. It wasn't until I got the sled back on a trailer that I noticed this problem.
I'll do the diver replacement for ya next and then we'll reinstall the drive shaft with the new track. It'll be interesting to see if I can get that gear box back together with no left over parts.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
You did that the hard way. Yami engineers are smart. Leave the bearing retainer on the brake side, and remove the 6(the other two below the four you removed) bolts on the clutch side, the entire driveshaft will fall right out. Yami really did a good job on this. No need to take any bearings off.
