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upper gear bushing

Dan,
Actually, under high load (accelerating), the rear of the chain is super tight (remember - the jackshaft is increasing in RPM), the front side where the tensioner is, chain is looser. It's under hard breaking that the front side of the chain is tight (assuming the throttle is allowed to return to closed).
IMO, this busing condition seems to exist to a much higher degree in Sidewinders rather than Cats? If so, question is WHY? What's different? The only thing I can come up with is the Yamaha secondary clutch is different than Team Cat one. Is it possible there is resonance or harmonics going on here? Again, just brain-storming.
I run my 280 tune ZR9000 998 chain at 1.5 turns out from hand tight. When I've had my chaincase apart, that seems to be about right for chain tightness. BTW- based on your nightmare story about the roller screw failure, mine is welded. Thanks!
I will brainstorm with you. Could it be that smaller upper gear(20-21-22) VS 24 tooth wear more on the bushing? The chain has more force on the smaller gear vs bigger gear. Think about the track that runs on bigger idler wheels ,its running more free and more HP to the ground VS smaller wheels. Also if the chain is stretch and you have nearly nothing left to go on the chain adjuster the chain is wearing more on the upper gear becouse of the angle of the chain. Less angle on the chain less stress on the upper gear and more hp to the track and ground.
 

24/50 - 50 tooth gear is pretty big and puts chain at less of an angle......... Bushing coating was just starting to disappear at 6000kms.
Swapped to a 21/37 which will have 4000km soon and will be able to compare.
 
24/50 - 50 tooth gear is pretty big and puts chain at less of an angle......... Bushing coating was just starting to disappear at 6000kms.
Swapped to a 21/37 which will have 4000km soon and will be able to compare.
Jepp,i have 24/50 on my Btx and the bushing is still fine and also little stretch on the chain. Running 305hp for 2 years now.
 
My Winder has pretty significant engine braking, in the twisties I use the brakes a lot as if I was driving a go-kart come into a corner, brake to scrub a bit of speed then hammer out of corner. My brakes started squeeling last week at around 5000km's so I will be replacing the pads and rotor.
 
Oil type and level? Half Siteglass or Full SiteGlass
I have used this gear oil in my drag nytro in 4 years and now been using it in my Sidewinder. I fill my caincase so the oil is just above full site glass. I do this beacouse of the 2 chains and lots of parts that oil stick to.
 

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When I first rode my '17 Cat ZR9000 (Team clutching) I was surprised at how much engine braking there is compared to any other sled I've ridden. After 3700 miles, it's still very noticeable at how much engine braking there is. Riding this one, I don't have to use the brakes nearly as much as all the other sleds I've ridden. It takes getting used to for sure. It's just a personality of the Cat w the Team clutching. I've tried different gearing too. Engine braking didn't seem to change. I ran 22/37 (.595) for a season but went back to 21/38 (.553) due to too many belt issues with the taller gearing.
So questions remains - WHY does top sprocket bushing wear out relatively quickly, seemingly more on Winders than Cats? Since chain cases and shafts are the same, the only thing I can think of is Yam secondary clutch being different than Cat. Still suspect harmonics/resonance differences. Facebook Turbo forum on this subject seems to show this issue particular to Winders. I've haven't seen any Cat guys talking about it. It would be interesting to switch a Winder to Team clutches for a test on this. Find out if the issue goes away? As my pic showed, with 3700 miles, my top sprocket bushing looks like brand new still.
Cats have been wearing this bushing out since day one and continue to do so. Have seen many.
 
Yamalube has been change,there is something in the oil that Yamaha dont use anymore. Anyone that knows what they dont use anymore?
 
Jackshafts are different Yamaha and Cat, their also secured different on the secondary side bearing retainer.
 

I don't know how much it helps, but I use this lucas stuff in all my gear cases.
 
24/50 - 50 tooth gear is pretty big and puts chain at less of an angle......... Bushing coating was just starting to disappear at 6000kms.
Swapped to a 21/37 which will have 4000km soon and will be able to compare.
25/45 gearing on mine same wear as stock.
 
Sad,maybe there is nothing to do with this shitty design of a chaincase :( Just buy new chain,upper gear and shaft every year to be safe?And driveshaft and bearing.
I just get bushing every year, Stock components Lasted 9000mi and were still fine when I replaced but I am not at power level you guys are.
 


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