When is it time to replace front drive axle bearing??

[klr650r]

No sence putting a new bearing on this

Good catch...but now I would recommend you rebuilt it...doubt a dimple would cut it.

 

[lilrez]

Good catch...but now I would recommend you rebuilt it...doubt a dimple would cut it.

Oh for sure lol. It would have to leave a 30thou protrusion lol Getting new shaft

 

[klr650r]

Oh for sure lol. It would have to leave a 30thou protrusion lol Getting new shaft

Get the new shaft built too

 

[lilrez]

Get the new shaft built too

Going with a shaft sold by hurricane

 

[geez150]

I also wonder about putting the light weight shaft in. As well as a lighter track and brake rotor. All less rotating weight. Easier to spin, faster and more efficient one would think. If I had unlimited time and money I would love to see the difference if any via a track Dyno.

 

[Turboflash]

X2!

 

[74Nitro]

I switched tracks on my 19, so I drilled a hole and put a set screw in as per others recommendations on this site.

 

[Turboflash]

With regards to mass, acceleration, inertia, etc this link is an interesting read.
On a snowmobile, seems like the biggest gain should be track (which, to the drive system is really a flywheel). There is even a calculator in this article where if you know the weights and pysical dimensions, you can calculate the effects.

https://www.w8ji.com/rotating_mass_acceleration.htm

 

[KnappAttack]

I also wonder about putting the light weight shaft in. As well as a lighter track and brake rotor. All less rotating weight. Easier to spin, faster and more efficient one would think. If I had unlimited time and money I would love to see the difference if any via a track Dyno.

Been there, done that. One would think it would be a huge gain. We've all heard the old 1 lb rotating is worth 7 lbs static gain I'm sure.


Took 8lbs. off my track once with all Ti studs and cleats over steel studs and cleats. No gain on the timers whatsoever! Not even a hundredth! That was an expensive waste of $$

Also tried a lightweight carbon/composite disc on the drive shaft another time. Another zero gain, high cost item that actually blew into pieces at the end of the first run! That was fun to try and get stopped on a 157 MPH run on asphalt, I was lucky the track had a long shutdown!

 

[74Nitro]

I don't see the sense in spending dollars on lightweight this-or-that on these machines when way bigger gains are easy to come by with horsepower mods.

 

[sideshowBob]

Been there, done that. One would think it would be a huge gain. We've all heard the old 1 lb rotating is worth 7 lbs static gain I'm sure.


Took 8lbs. off my track once with all Ti studs and cleats over steel studs and cleats. No gain on the timers whatsoever! Not even a hundredth! That was an expensive waste of $$

Also tried a lightweight carbon/composite disc on the drive shaft another time. Another zero gain, high cost item that actually blew into pieces at the end of the first run! That was fun to try and get stopped on a 157 MPH run on asphalt, I was lucky the track had a long shutdown!

LOL...I built a light weight aluminum brake rotor for my 866 Mod Vmax4...lasted one run then spun on shaft and seized up against brake caliper. I had to pound it back with a hammer and socket extension so I could compete for the rest of the day. I ran all day and never had any brakes...just never told anyone!

 

[sideshowBob]

I don't see the sense in spending dollars on lightweight this-or-that on these machines when way bigger gains are easy to come by with horsepower mods.

On these Sidewinders...I could not agree more.
270+++hp makes any sled feel real light...LOL even an Apex.

 

[klr650r]

Going with a shaft sold by hurricane

Post back here with some feedback once you've got some miles on her.

I also wonder about putting the light weight shaft in. As well as a lighter track and brake rotor. All less rotating weight. Easier to spin, faster and more efficient one would think. If I had unlimited time and money I would love to see the difference if any via a track Dyno.

Never had any luck reducing rotating mass at the track. Or cog area or clutch. Noting noticeable for the money anyways. And that and the jackshaft I much prefer a heavy full shaft. Broke a jackshaft before and it ain't no fun.

 

[sledheadgeorge]

I remember the hollow shafts Polaris came out with years ago. "Weight loss ". Friggin things were twisting under load.

 

[journeyman]

Getting back to replacing bearings.....I am assuming there are better bearings available than the stock OEM ones? What brand is the best choice?