DMCTurbo
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Pressed back on real easy after having the shaft in the freezer for a couple hours.
Sevey
TY 4 Stroke God
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You heating with a heat gun or torch?
Whats your plan to get the new one in? Freeze it?
Heat from a heat gun should be sufficient. If you use torches better be careful how hot they can get, cause the housing is just aluminum. Heat gun will take a while but be safer.
MS
Sevey
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Glad you got the seal out, i was going to suggest using a socket and drive it out if you could get at it.
How difficult was it to get that whole bracket off.
When my time comes, hoping to avoid removing all that if possible.
MS
How difficult was it to get that whole bracket off.
When my time comes, hoping to avoid removing all that if possible.
MS
DMCTurbo
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Glad you got the seal out, i was going to suggest using a socket and drive it out if you could get at it.
How difficult was it to get that whole bracket off.
When my time comes, hoping to avoid removing all that if possible.
MS
The bracket comes off easy. I then put the bracket with the shaft in my press and drove the shaft out of the bearing. Then applied heat to the bracket and the bearing pressed out real easy.
DMCTurbo
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Heat from a heat gun should be sufficient. If you use torches better be careful how hot they can get, cause the housing is just aluminum. Heat gun will take a while but be safer.
MS
Propane torch, I was careful, just applied a little heat.
Sevey
TY 4 Stroke God
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The bracket comes off easy. I then put the bracket with the shaft in my press and drove the shaft out of the bearing. Then applied heat to the bracket and the bearing pressed out real easy.
Its crazy how they designed this sled to have that bracket as well as the whole chaincase to be removed to service the bearings.
Glad it worked out.
MS
Kevin
Lifetime Member
Is there any way to check to see if the bearing is spinning on the shaft without splitting the caliper and taking the rotor off?
Big_Phil
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How miles on the sled? It’s probably spinning. They seem to be last about 5-6000 miles before catastrophic failure. It’s easy enough to change that I put a new one every seasonIs there any way to check to see if the bearing is spinning on the shaft without splitting the caliper and taking the rotor off?
KnappAttack
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Is there any way to check to see if the bearing is spinning on the shaft without splitting the caliper and taking the rotor off?
I haven seen one not spin the bearing on the shaft unless its had a wedge installed from new. How many miles you have? I replaced my shaft at 2300 miles and then installed the BOP wedge, been good since.
No need to split the caliper, it should all slide off as an assembly as long as the circlip hasn't boogered up the splines on the shaft. If it has you'll need to make a puller to get the disc off. Take the brake pucks out and then remove it as an assembly.
Kevin
Lifetime Member
3500 miles
I did one on my last sled and use loctite sleeve retainer was just hoping there was an easy check now
I did one on my last sled and use loctite sleeve retainer was just hoping there was an easy check now
Last edited:
twyztid
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You are going to have to heat the crap out of the inner race of that bearing to get it off if it hasn't spun. That sleeve retainer is no joke.3500 miles
I did one on my last sled and use loctite sleeve retainer was just hoping there was an easy check now
74Nitro
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I changed the track on mine recently. 11000kms and zero wear. I did as Mike had suggested a couple years ago and put a small bolt in from inside the shaft, pressing against the inside of race.
twyztid
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A bolt... or like a set screw installed from the inside of the shaft?I changed the track on mine recently. 11000kms and zero wear. I did as Mike had suggested a couple years ago and put a small bolt in from inside the shaft, pressing against the inside of race.
74Nitro
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I used a very short bolt since I could then use a 12 point wrench to tighten.A bolt... or like a set screw installed from the inside of the shaft?
It's to difficult with the Allan set screw with six sides of course.
Last edited:
Firedawg1998
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Ya, your bearing and shaft served u well, but u will need one of each as others have mentionned. 3 of us that ride together, mileage between 8-11,000km. 2 of them needed bearing and shafts, one needed that , plus when his bearing let go it allowed the rotor to chew into his chassis and required some welding and paint and caliper which ultimately needed changing.... drovesjaft savers installed in all 3 and we ended the season of over 3000 km each running some.days on 270 and alot of 300... yearly maintenance now.. we also found that ski or a nice bearing from Germany at our local Maslack part centre jad way better tolerance than those junky Peer ones...
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