• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

900 miles per belt


Get creative with the motor mounts. It would be a chore.

Nobody has addressed if these motor mounts are adjustable or even "cheatable". The only way to adjust center or parallel is with motor mounts.
I will be looking at this in spring.
I'm breaking out the micro millimeter tools this spring. For now i'm trying to keep it under a 100 on the trails. NOT easy to do up here.
 
Move motor! Egg hole

I think you are saying to "egg hole" the motor mount hole. If not you'd be calling me an "egg hole" & that stings. LOL
I was actually asking are the mounts adjustable as is or do WE have to get "creative" like the CLUTCHMAN says.
Whether it's elongating the hole or shim, if it needs to be done, i'm doing it!
 
I think you are saying to "egg hole" the motor mount hole. If not you'd be calling me an "egg hole" & that stings. LOL
I was actually asking are the mounts adjustable as is or do WE have to get "creative" like the CLUTCHMAN says.
Whether it's elongating the hole or shim, if it needs to be done, i'm doing it!

My viper has some play in the mounts but not much. As for adjusting the offset with the mounts it’s pretty much cut and weld. Parallel Center to Center is doable with the “egg” method. Of course once it’s good I would tack weld the bolt in place. Fine thread bolts help clamp better but with a tune I would throw a tack weld on the front mounts.
 
Move motor! Egg hole
Well,we had my front exchanger completely out when I replaced that and many front end parts,bulkhead and bulkhead a-frame,and I don't see any way to egg shape anything,you have one long bolt that slides through,and the two one on each side of exchanger and they both bolt togeather,just cant see how this on this sled could be changed.
 
i forget
 
Last edited:
Older sleds are soooo much easier, these new sleds are engineering nightmares.
 
You can remove the front engine mounts and then remove 1mm then put the mounts back to the engine and you will increase c t c.
 
You can remove the front engine mounts and then remove 1mm then put the mounts back to the engine and you will increase c t c.

Remove 1mm where? Do you have a pic or diagram?
 
On the engine you have 2 pieces of engine mounts mounted with 2 bolts each. If you remove the engine mounts from the engine you can remove some materials from the backside of the engine mounts.
 
a lil follow up from earlier post.... will just got back from a lil speed rip on the lake .... 122 mph on the clock ...stopped at the end shut her down ..removed side panel and put my hands on the clutches and both were lil better then warm to the touch...could have left my hands on them and not get burned.... just awesome ..
 
a lil follow up from earlier post.... will just got back from a lil speed rip on the lake .... 122 mph on the clock ...stopped at the end shut her down ..removed side panel and put my hands on the clutches and both were lil better then warm to the touch...could have left my hands on them and not get burned.... just awesome ..

What was the deal with your secondary? Where did you end up alignment wise?
 
first belt broke at 300 kms... second at 740...ordered up the hurricane alignment tool and i could not believe my eyes when i put the jig on the secondary.....long story short, final result was cutting 3/16 off the clutch stub....jig now fits like its suppose too .... goin to go for a lil rip tomorrow and hope now that all the #*$&@ is behind me ..
I did similar....but when I mocked mine up, I had to go back and have custom shims made.

You need to mock up secondary, no spring, with helix installed....mock it up at your preferred offset, and then open secondary to mimic full shift....Check with a mirror that your backside of sheave is not hitting the frame! As the bearing sits "set in" where the circlip is. Mine was very close, and I ended up with a 1.5mm custom shim I had made, that also is a smaller OD to fit into the movable sheave as it shift to into OD at max shift. I had 4mm removed which was just a tad past flush at full shift.

So just check all that to be safe.

Dan
 


Back
Top