Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[jonlafon1]

If you read further back on this thread it mentions this stuff.. So you should install the wedge and snug it up some.. Turn track by hand or stand.. Don't need to go crazy.. Just a few turns.. Then increase torque some more and repeat a few times until you get to your desired torque.. This seats/normalizes the bearing on the shaft.. IF you don't do this it can cause the bearing to be slightly cocked on the shaft.. I know it sounds a little weird but its true.. Dont worry about what you did.. Just put it up on a stand and run it some .. WATCH the brake assembly for wobble.. You will see it if the bearing is not seated right.. If it does not wobble and you have brake rotor play your good.. Its no biggie just something to check! If it wobbles just reinstall the wedge and slowly torque and turn track in between torques.. No worries just check it on a stand to be sure.

 

[jonlafon1]

ALSO. most are putting more torque on that wedge.. If you feel it grabbed/tightened your bearing down enough on the shaft so be it.. Most are around 40-50 pounds on torque. Your sled your call just mentioning what most are doing

 

[hellflyer]

I had it torqued to 45 since new on my 2020 and just had it off for inspection. Though it didn't spin you could definitely see the 3 points of contact and the rust between them. Bearing was very sloppy since new. Torqued to 50 now with 3200km on it

 

[mbarryracing]

Runs true. all set there.

I didn't want to over torque the wedge and then possible cause distortion or have it tighten the brake rotor splines on the shaft. I could see having to go 40 to 50 if there was already a lot of clearance having to be closed up, but mine locked on at 18 ft lbs.
You really think I should go from current 20 higher to 30, or even double?
Keep in mind I also had lubed the threads of the bolt with anti seize grease so requires less torque to achieve same clamping load. Think of cylinder head bolts studs or nuts, torque required is higher when dry, less with lube. So definitely can't totally compare apples to apples...

 

[fatchance]

Runs true. all set there.

I didn't want to over torque the wedge and then possible cause distortion or have it tighten the brake rotor splines on the shaft. I could see having to go 40 to 50 if there was already a lot of clearance having to be closed up, but mine locked on at 18 ft lbs.
You really think I should go from current 20 higher to 30, or even double?
Keep in mind I also had lubed the threads of the bolt with anti seize grease so requires less torque to achieve same clamping load. Think of cylinder head bolts studs or nuts, torque required is higher when dry, less with lube. So definitely can't totally compare apples to apples...

I wouldn't waste the time with 20 lbs. Mine was at 60lbs with no ill effects and i had used never seize on the threads and the inside of the forks on the wedge.

 

[mbarryracing]

Ok, I torqued it up to 40 ft lbs.

 

[jonlafon1]

Ok, I torqued it up to 40 ft lbs.

I know it’s a little work checking that bearing. But you could check it after 500 miles and see if it’s staying locked down or wearing the shaft. Just a idea if your concerned about torque umbers and effectiveness. Sounds like your good to me!!

 

[mbarryracing]

I'm glad now that I took everyone's advise here and cranked it up some, no longer concerned about too much. Thanks guys!
It went 2123 miles with the original factory bearing and didn't wear the shaft. I think it has to be better, if not perfect, now.

 

[jonlafon1]

After I had a few issues with wobble and seating that bearing. I’m just trying to make sure no one gets it wrong and causes more issues

 

[WinderFab]

After I had a few issues with wobble and seating that bearing. I’m just trying to make sure no one gets it wrong and causes more issues

Thanks jonlafon1, like many on here your info is greatly appreciated

 

[jonlafon1]

Thanks. Mike Knapp deserves some credit on this issue also.

 

[rubrsidedown]

GREAT info.

Thanks for all your hard work.

Looking to do this very thing to my T-Cat with approx 1400 miles on it.

Has a strange clicking noise when coming to a stop as well so I need to address that at some point.

Maybe rotor rattle or brake pads possibly. If I lightly hold the brake lever while coming to a stop is all but disappears totally.
Any suggestions or advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

Love the sled, just wish it didn't have these issues.


Jeff B In Maine

 

[Fast]

Had to use a ratchet strap trick to draw the two running boards together to get the snap ring on the shaft . Seems good now. Will test drive it on the trails tomorrow.
View attachment 159329

Where did you put the ratchet strap? right at the foot wells , with the suspension and cross shaft out?

 

[Sevey]

Update - just pulled my bearing off the shaft. 3 seasons and only 8300 km.
Have had the wedge since about half way in its first season.
Definitely a ledge has been created on the shaft indicating the bearing is spinning.
Had the wedge up to 55 ft lbs but it still seems to be spinning.

When i removed it, i had left the wedge in and removed the 3 10mm bolts to see if the caliper would fall off bearing. And i could just pull it off. No resistance.

So pissed right now.
MS

 

[FrozenTows4]

This was on a new shaft & bearing?