Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[SledFreak]

Does seem strange.

 

[1nc 2000]

Time for the Calipers to check "things".
Tomorrow I have a used brake coming. And another set of eyes. Got 2500 miles on a new shaft that looks PERFECT at 270 HP.. A sled with 150 Hp and 180 miles and the shaft is worn?? Something is not adding up

When the bearing spins on the shaft and wears it down it is also wearing down the side of the brake disc. The disc needs to be replaced also.

 

[Sevey]

Knapp has the right idea on applying the wedge.

I had used green loctite and put the caliper assembly back on the shaft and tightened up the 3 bolts with the BOP wedge - Without having rotated the shaft. Turns out, months later when I ran the engine the shaft did not spin true and the tunnel throbbing away. Something was oblong. Not good. When applying the brake it pulsed like crazy.

I had to pull it all apart and start again and basically did what knapp suggested. Keep spinning that shaft or track as you assemble the thing and tighten the wedge progressively. It allows the bearing to mate with the shaft.

At the end of the day I have considered they designed it this way because the tunnel on these sleds is so flimsy and flexes a lot under operation. There is no way to have that caliper assembly fixed on the shaft on a paper thin Tunnel held by 3 ten mil bolts. It’s not like a Yamaha sled where the entire front bulkhead was a solid single piece of a cast aluminum containing the drive bearings and supporting the drive shaft. Food for thought.......
Ms

 

[jonlafon1]

Got it figured out!! Mike was right. I reinstalled brake and bearing. All was good no wobble. THEN WE put the wedge in and torqued while spinning track and slowly tightening to 48 pounds. My brake was wobbling from not doing the wedge as Mike said on previous install.
BUT no way the shaft or brake and bearing was installed correctly from factory on my new 8000 as the shaft was worn at 189 miles.

 

[Firecatdude]

Got it figured out!! Mike was right. I reinstalled brake and bearing. All was good no wobble. THEN WE put the wedge in and torqued while spinning track and slowly tightening to 48 pounds. My brake was wobbling from not doing the wedge as Mike said on previous install.
BUT no way the shaft or brake and bearing was installed correctly from factory on my new 8000 as the shaft was worn at 189 miles.

When reading your first post about the brake wobble I didn’t think you said you installed the wedge when you noticed the wobble. Maybe I missed it. If you leave brake pads in, can you still see brake calliper wobble. Did you have pulsing in brake trigger?

Also, never saw anything from Travis about installing wedge Mikes way.

 

[jonlafon1]

On my buddies used 6000 (1500 miles and shaft worn badly)we had NO WEDGE installed. So that tells me the bearing was ever so slightly cocked or not square on shaft. If the bearing is not seated correctly it will wobble with pads or without. We had a caliper that was hung up and did not function properly. So we were trying to see if it wobbled without pads in.
The 2021 Cat 8000 bearing was not installed correctly from factory. No way a shaft is worn in 189 miles. What I noticed was the plate/rubber seal on the inside of the tunnel was kinda kinked onto the snap ring that the bearing sits against. Just a little hung up when I removed the 3 bolts and pulled the seal away. I know it’s almost impossible to screw that up but they managed. That’s what I believe wore the shaft in 189 miles. So the bearing was NOT seated totally against the snap ring on the shaft. If the bearing is cocked the brake assembly will wobble while running sled on a stand. It’s real simple after you install your brake assembly and tighten 3 bolts check for wobble BEFORE wedge install. And slowly tighten and turn track when installing wedge and check for wobble again.

 

[cannondale27]

All this boils down to fit to the shaft. Think about how the wobble bearing in the older machines worked. The shaft ran straight even if whole bearing was crooked. If fit to shaft is tight shaft will run true has to. Weld the shafts.

 

[number1kyster]

I'm experiencing a vibration down by my left foot, but no pulsing of the brake. I torqued the shaft saver from 35 to 50 this fall. Should I loosen it and retorque while turning the track?

 

[jonlafon1]

I'm experiencing a vibration down by my left foot, but no pulsing of the brake. I torqued the shaft saver from 35 to 50 this fall. Should I loosen it and retorque while turning the track?

Vibration might have nothing to do with shaft saver or torque numbers. IMO if you have NO pulsing in brake and NO WOBBLE > you got no issues with wedge install.

 

[KnappAttack]

If the bearing is wedged on cooked, you can see it on the housing and chassis flexing when reving it up on the stand. It's plain to see.

 

[Firecatdude]

I have no pulsating in break lever but if I look hard enough it looks like the calliper has a small wobble to it. I am 99% sure that bearing was seated in the calliper housing all the way when I installed it. Frick, I don’t want to take it apart in the middle of riding season. Just from the force of the track spinning, wouldn’t you expect a little movement of the thin tunnel in that area???

Hey Jonlafon1, was your wobble really noticeable or did you really have to eyeball it to see it?

 

[jonlafon1]

You will definitely see a wobble. Especially just engaging belt. Low RPM VERY NOTICEABLE .

 

[Sevey]

After messing around with mine, you can slack the track off and remove the wedge, roll the track a bit and then re install the wedge. It likely will settle out.
MS

I have no pulsating in break lever but if I look hard enough it looks like the calliper has a small wobble to it. I am 99% sure that bearing was seated in the calliper housing all the way when I installed it. Frick, I don’t want to take it apart in the middle of riding season. Just from the force of the track spinning, wouldn’t you expect a little movement of the thin tunnel in that area???

Hey Jonlafon1, was your wobble really noticeable or did you really have to eyeball it to see it?[/QUOTE

After messing around with mine, you can slack the track off and remove the wedge, roll the track a bit and then re install the wedge. It likely will settle out.
MS

 

[Firecatdude]

So I removed wedge. Looks like the wobble went away. I will have to try Knapps way of installing it. Do you guys think it would be better to put the fingers of the wedge in a different spot than where they were originally?

 

[KnappAttack]

So I removed wedge. Looks like the wobble went away. I will have to try Knapps way of installing it. Do you guys think it would be better to put the fingers of the wedge in a different spot than where they were originally?

No that won't matter, do it the way I said, tighten slowly bringing it up little by little while rotating the track around and around, this will normalize the bearing on the shaft as the bearing self aligns and normalizes on the shaft without being crooked on the shaft.