Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[Sevey]

The wedge was installed mid Jan 2019. the Sleds first season.

Only put 40 ft lbs initially and the last 2 season just cranked it up to 55 ft lbs,

It conceivable it was spinning since day one, but I couldn’t stop it.

I find its impossible to know how much to crank it unless the shaft is out of the sled on a table. Which i have not done.

MS

 

[SAB1]

Just don’t be pissed at the wedge. It’s a Yamaha Cat #*$&@ part.

 

[Sevey]

Just don’t be pissed at the wedge. It’s a Yamaha Cat #*$&@ part.

You are mis interpreting the post. The wedge is the only attempt to prolong shaft life, fending off this massive design flaw. I had hoped catch it in time to stop it, but it seems like the whole system is too flimsy and flexes way too much allowing that shaft to slip. JUst really frustrated at what it takes to keep these things going.
MS

 

[justinator]

I think the wedge needs to be cranked down to 60lbs + imo, even on a brand new shaft and bearing.Its not strong enough to expand the shaft so much that it will cause premature damage to the bearing. It hasnt on either of my sleds and my wifes riot is at 70 ft lbs, 3300 miles and counting and my winder has a shaft that was welded up for a better fit plus the saver at 60ft lbs. 2500 miles since this setup and zero issues. On a new sled I would torque 60-70ftlbs right off the bat

 

[WinderFab]

Update - just pulled my bearing off the shaft. 3 seasons and only 8300 km.
Have had the wedge since about half way in its first season.
Definitely a ledge has been created on the shaft indicating the bearing is spinning.
Had the wedge up to 55 ft lbs but it still seems to be spinning.

When i removed it, i had left the wedge in and removed the 3 10mm bolts to see if the caliper would fall off bearing. And i could just pull it off. No resistance.

So pissed right now.
MS

Not good news..
I’ll be checking mine in the next few weeks, hope I have better news to report than what you found. I did install the wedge since new on my 20, when I checked mine after the first season “3500” km it didn’t spin.
I know it’s a pain but I made a puller to remove the bearing out of the calliper, than with the bearing on the shaft I torqued it down till it was locked on the shaft. This way you can see and feel when the bearing actually gets locked to the shaft, I loosen wedge re install bearing in calliper and re torqued the bearing 10 more foot pounds than what it just locked to shaft. From what I’ve been reading my bearing to shaft wasn’t as bad as some are, mine was a snug slip fit.
Bottom line is we shouldn’t have to be doing this on a $20 000 + sled in 2021.

 

[WinderFab]

I think the wedge needs to be cranked down to 60lbs + imo, even on a brand new shaft and bearing.Its not strong enough to expand the shaft so much that it will cause premature damage to the bearing. It hasnt on either of my sleds and my wifes riot is at 70 ft lbs, 3300 miles and counting and my winder has a shaft that was welded up for a better fit plus the saver at 60ft lbs. 2500 miles since this setup and zero issues. On a new sled I would torque 60-70ftlbs right off the bat

I agree.. torque it down.. I had my new bearing in my hand in about 0*C and it didn’t spin very freely, -20*C and it’s even harder to spin.

 

[Sevey]

I think the wedge needs to be cranked down to 60lbs + imo, even on a brand new shaft and bearing.Its not strong enough to expand the shaft so much that it will cause premature damage to the bearing. It hasnt on either of my sleds and my wifes riot is at 70 ft lbs, 3300 miles and counting and my winder has a shaft that was welded up for a better fit plus the saver at 60ft lbs. 2500 miles since this setup and zero issues. On a new sled I would torque 60-70ftlbs right off the bat

I entirely agree. The wedge had just been fabricated so info was sparse. I think initial torque estimates were too light. Chalk it up to a learning curve i guess

Tried using green loctite and had issues with the bearing not running ‘true’. For some reason the shaft and tunnel don’t seem to be aligned on my sled. Cant answer why.

By the time you throw in a new shaft and new bearings its likely going to be close to $400.
At times a 600 or 650 seems like a good bet for ease of maintenance.
MS

 

[justinator]

I entirely agree. The wedge had just been fabricated so info was sparse. I think initial torque estimates were too light. Chalk it up to a learning curve i guess

Tried using green loctite and had issues with the bearing not running ‘true’. For some reason the shaft and tunnel don’t seem to be aligned on my sled. Cant answer why.

By the time you throw in a new shaft and new bearings its likely going to be close to $400.
At times a 600 or 650 seems like a good bet for ease of maintenance.
MS

I think the initial torque estimates work for some and not for others due to tolerances all over the place on those shafts. But in reality like winderfab mentioned that bearing gets more and more difficult to spin in the cold when the grease is cold and if its slipping a fair amount to start with the bearing certainly wont warm up. Tight track seems to help too keeping pressure on that shaft.

 

[sidewinder 2018]

I chose a one time fix given the new shaft tolerances were all over the place.The reconditioned shaft ,with anti-rotation pin added, along with a upgraded bearing,with a slotted inner race should be one and done.See attached.Shaft saver not needed.Franks Motor cycle sales can be contacted @802-878-3930 ,the service advisor is Kamran Pelkey.They will recondition your shaft ,build up journal area,and install a anti rotation pin in your shaft.They also include a upgraded 6009 bearing with a slotted inner race for approximately $140 (before shipping)

 

[Sledroll]

I chose a one time fix given the new shaft tolerances were all over the place.The reconditioned shaft ,with anti-rotation pin added, along with a upgraded bearing,with a slotted inner race should be one and done.See attached.Shaft saver not needed.

Where did you get that done ?

 

[SAB1]

I put my wedge in a brand new shaft. The shaft was dimpled and loctite also. Wedge is at 44lbs. So far so good. If it fails I will go with pin also. I believe there is place in VT that does that.

 

[Firedawg1998]

Just pulled my bearing on my 19srx, was planning on swapping in a nice new Niachi Japan bearing in there along with a ds saver. The one I took out was a factory "peer", spun freely and lots of grease inside... shaft is toast, chewed and sloppy. Called my sudbury dealer and they wont touch sleds until October under my yes warranty.

Anyone get a service manager who is full of excuses? This guy was, well I cant say it will be covered by us... we have to check the bearing and the shaft, it sees alot of heat and if it dried out then that's a Lack of maintenance issue and could be around a 3,000 dollar job... oh and there will be some cost cause we dont pay for the seals and the oil that we replace when we drain the chaincase and remove the shaft... hmmm. Oddly enough , a cat friend at out local cat dealer, same scenario was answered with..... yup, if u have wear, bring it in and we will swap it out. Happens all the time, zero cost to the customer..... wth?.

 

[SAB1]

$3,000 - I'd do it myself.............

I didn't pay a dime for anything when mine was done fluids and all. My dealer also pushed it off until fall though.

 

[Firedawg1998]

Ya, same thing I've read 100 times, dealer just took care of them. He almost has me worried enough to just suck up the 400 dollars and do the work myself with an aftermarket shaft from hurricane... but I'm also stubborn enough to make sure I have all my ducks in order so he cant screw me over. I've been talking with Yamaha Canada and they seem like they are willing to provide me with all the previous work and parts that were changed 1800km ago from a different Ontario dealer in that same area of the machine, except the shaft. So they won't really have a leg to stand on if they mention " maintenance issues". A different yammie dealer was in there just 1800km ago and the bearing is still rolling nice and freely. Just didnt appreciate his tone, ya know? Oh, and somehow, some way, I'm not paying for a cent for this obvious design flaw fix.

 

[FrozenTows4]

... could be around a 3,000 dollar job...

They just don't want to do it.
$3,000 is what a ZR6000 2 stroke factory long block & install costs.
Well, a little more when you add reeds, boots, gaskets, etc.

A new shaft w/drivers & new brake caliper w/bearing is less than $550.00
I did 2 sleds, last fall, for less that $1300.00 counting 2 wedges.

They're just trying to make you go away. What a shame.