Barn of Parts New Driveshaft Solution

[Renegade XRS 900R]

Bearing number is 6009-2RSR-C3 Travis will be listing just the replacement bearing for future replacement when needed.The inner race has been opened up for this collar to be pressed on.(not a stock bearing)

 

[HABS 1]

You guys better order a second bearing so you have a replacement on hand when riding.
Please post the bearing number so I can make my own at work on my lunch break.

 

[hibshman25]

Bearing number is 6009-2RSR-C3 Travis will be listing just the replacement bearing for future replacement when needed.The inner race has been opened up for this collar to be pressed on.(not a stock bearing)

Correct...it is not a std bearing. Never understood why bearing mfgs still refer to them by std bearing number even though they don't have the std dimensions. The yamaha secondary bearing says 6206 but it has a different ID than the std 6206.

If one gets in a bind on a trip and my bearing fails you can always just remove the assembly and press a stock bearing back in the caliper to get up and going again. I hear of very few bearing failures compared to Jap models with the much smaller bearing. An FAG bearing should also be better quality than the OEM Peer.

 

[Turboflash]

I should have the product up on the website today.

Here is the video I made.

Nice product Travis!
What is fit of the collar ID to un-worn outer diameter of shaft?

 

[Turboflash]

I should have the product up on the website today.

Here is the video I made.

1. Has this been field tested?
2. Based on your video, it looks like the set screws would be inboard of a seal, if one chooses to use one?
3. Do you recommend applying loctite to set screws?

Thank you!

 

[Pstn head]

1. Has this been field tested?
2. Based on your video, it looks like the set screws would be inboard of a seal, if one chooses to use one?
3. Do you recommend applying loctite to set screws?

Thank you!

I agree, and if I may add. Can't the collar be made an 1/8" or so shorter to accommodate the seal ?

 

[sailor joe]

1. Has this been field tested?
2. Based on your video, it looks like the set screws would be inboard of a seal, if one chooses to use one?
3. Do you recommend applying loctite to set screws?

Thank you!

To field test we need a connection to someone in the Andes during our summer months to test new inventions like Travis's shaft saver. Does anyone know if we have a member who lives there and has a Sidewinder down there to do our summer field testing ( our summer that is, their winter). We need to develop it if it doesn't exist. Heck we could send a number of Yamaha enthusiasts from this site to do that trip and it would only cost 50 cents collectively from all us members, Steve with OCD comes to mind...oh, he likes Doo, never mind. If we did this, that whole Sidewinder Mach Z bologna could have been avoided before our season started lol.
Clearly BOP hasn't field tested, he just put out the product a week ago.. but their invention is genius, give the guy a break, he backs up everything he sells. It's great to see that on August 1st we are talking sledding...fricking awesome all!!!

 

[hibshman25]

The new bearing has not technically been field tested as I only developed it in this offseason. I've run a sled on stand in shop with bearing to check for any obvious issue. The set screw concept is not new tech. The concern some may have is how does the chassis like the locked down bearing. With my original driveshaft expander locking down the bearing and many machining shafts for a press fit, I think it has been proven already that the chassis has no issue with the bearing locked down with the exception of Habs 1. Removal of the inboard clip has been debated as well, but if the bearing is locked down, the clip really is not doing anything. I initially had 2 set screws on prototypes but decided to add a 3rd just for extra measure to help resist lateral movement.

In the back of my mind the only potential concern I have is how the collar holds up on a worn shaft. The bearing is essentially overhanging the worn area of shaft and I wander if the collar could shear over time. Even if it would shear one would essentially just be back to where we started with a shaft spinning independent of the bearing so there is no ride ending failure that would result from this. My father's winder has a worn shaft that I addressed with shim stock and the saver. I plan to remove it this fall and run the new bearing so I have one first hand that I can monitor.

If the collar was shortened to accommodate the seal the set screw access would not be feasible. I also wanted as much length as possible on the collar for support when used on worn shafts.

 

[jonlafon1]

When installing this new shaft saver, couple things that come to mind? The bearing/collar go into the brake assemble( while assembly is removed) first and then assembly gets bolted on to tunnel, then the set screws on collar get tightened? Im thinking maybe the track should be spun BEFORE tightening the 3 set screws? Otherwise the collar could be cocked and cause the brake assembly to wobble?. Does the collar stop/bottom on the shaft when installing brake assembly inward onto shaft? And the more worn the shaft the bigger the gap and maybe more potential for the set screws to be uneven after tightening them.. Just brain storming not saying any of this will happen or be a issue as I don't have the new collar/bearing in my hand YET.. And maybe im missing something on installing this new product..

 

[hibshman25]

The collar is extended 1" beyond the bearing width. The 1" width mates on unworn area of shaft and therefore should ensure that the bearing is true on the shaft. The collar fit up is slip fit on the shaft so there is a slight bit of clearance. When tightening the set screws I'm thinking the proper sequence might be to tighten 2 screws completely. This will ensure the collar is seated parallel to the shaft. Once 2 are tight then you would tighten the 3rd one. I'm thinking if one were to go around and tighten each screw little by little there is more risk of bearing being slightly cocked.

I do think rotating the shaft a few times certainly won't hurt anything to essentially allow everything to find its "home" position before making the set screws tight. There is no stop on the shaft. The tunnel is essentially your stop once the caliper mates up with it.

 

[jonlafon1]

The collar is extended 1" beyond the bearing width. The 1" width mates on unworn area of shaft and therefore should ensure that the bearing is true on the shaft. The collar fit up is slip fit on the shaft so there is a slight bit of clearance. When tightening the set screws I'm thinking the proper sequence might be to tighten 2 screws completely. This will ensure the collar is seated parallel to the shaft. Once 2 are tight then you would tighten the 3rd one. I'm thinking if one were to go around and tighten each screw little by little there is more risk of bearing being slightly cocked.

I do think rotating the shaft a few times certainly won't hurt anything to essentially allow everything to find its "home" position before making the set screws tight. There is no stop on the shaft. The tunnel is essentially your stop once the caliper mates up with it.

Yea i forgot the set screws are going against the shaft inward from the bearing seating area on the shaft.. Look forward to trying this out.. Thanks for your thoughts on install..

 

[HABS 1]

The new bearing has not technically been field tested as I only developed it in this offseason. I've run a sled on stand in shop with bearing to check for any obvious issue. The set screw concept is not new tech. The concern some may have is how does the chassis like the locked down bearing. With my original driveshaft expander locking down the bearing and many machining shafts for a press fit, I think it has been proven already that the chassis has no issue with the bearing locked down with the exception of Habs 1. Removal of the inboard clip has been debated as well, but if the bearing is locked down, the clip really is not doing anything. I initially had 2 set screws on prototypes but decided to add a 3rd just for extra measure to help resist lateral movement.

In the back of my mind the only potential concern I have is how the collar holds up on a worn shaft. The bearing is essentially overhanging the worn area of shaft and I wander if the collar could shear over time. Even if it would shear one would essentially just be back to where we started with a shaft spinning independent of the bearing so there is no ride ending failure that would result from this. My father's winder has a worn shaft that I addressed with shim stock and the saver. I plan to remove it this fall and run the new bearing so I have one first hand that I can monitor.

If the collar was shortened to accommodate the seal the set screw access would not be feasible. I also wanted as much length as possible on the collar for support when used on worn shafts.

yes the wedg didn't work for me, i know this new style eccentually does the same thing, but ill know as soon as i install it and rip it on a stand to see if clip pops n bearing moves, if it does , this new coller set up gives me more room to play with to try to make sumthin to set inner race but make it float also, so im happy either way!! i think im gonna install it with bit of grease on shaft and locktight screws with blue, id like to get a dust seal to work with the collar also , if anyone does figure out a seal number, droppin it to me would be greatly appreciated! if not , once i find i will post

 

[hibshman25]

yes the wedg didn't work for me, i know this new style eccentually does the same thing, but ill know as soon as i install it and rip it on a stand to see if clip pops n bearing moves, if it does , this new coller set up gives me more room to play with to try to make sumthin to set inner race but make it float also, so im happy either way!! i think im gonna install it with bit of grease on shaft and locktight screws with blue, id like to get a dust seal to work with the collar also , if anyone does figure out a seal number, droppin it to me would be greatly appreciated! if not , once i find i will post

Stock seal is 45x65x8. Collar was spec'd to 54mm OD as you can get a 54x65x8 seal.

Let me know how it works out for you. I could likely make a custom one for you that has a key way slip fit between bearing and collar if needed.

 

[HABS 1]

Stock seal is 45x65x8. Collar was spec'd to 54mm OD as you can get a 54x65x8 seal.

Let me know how it works out for you. I could likely make a custom one for you that has a key way slip fit between bearing and collar if needed.

i will forsure, if it dont ill take u up on the keyway offer forsure! thanks

 

[cannondale27]

I still think even with this design the wear in shaft should be addressed either with shim,welding or maybe even Epoxy. The load on bearing is not going to be centered under the bearing. Kind of like a offset rim can be hard on a bearing. It would be ideal if the brake hub could be machined narrower at back and collar extended and splined. Would not need the set screws at that point and sleeve would have support at both sides of bearing if fit was good. Probably cost prohibitive though. Hope this proves successful.