saskattakman
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need to machine the secondary there's no way around it..mine was 61mm after a blown belt and stub moved in .040 or 1mm which is as far as it will move in after hitting the crank..milled 2mm off secondary and fixed belt problems

Dr. FeeLGooD
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SideHogger
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This is exactly what my bearing looks like. Not flush at all. .040 pushed in.mine had moved almost 3mm whitout touching the back of the clutch .
Green locktight OD AND ID....
57:5/58:5 offset should put you in the ballpark
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Just reading through this thread as I am working on setting offset. Is the consensus that it is ok to run the secondary directly on the circlip? Or is it best to machine the secondary and add more shims if necessary. I am at 62mm with the factory spacer/washer that separates the inner side of the secondary from the circlip holding the bearing.
hellflyer
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Mine is at 59.8 stock so just removed the shim. Never had a problem but I'll run it like this for this year.
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Ya without the shim I believe it will bring me in just over 2mm


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58-59mm is where you want to be imo. My machinist only charged $25 to machine the clutch down. I had him take an extra 1mm off and then added a 1mm washer behind clutch. I did this so I had a little room for adjustment each way. People have run it against the clip with no issues but in your case you would still be 1-2mm off of where you want to be ideally. Still an improvement though.


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NO ISSUE at all running without a washer. Done it for thousands of miles.Just reading through this thread as I am working on setting offset. Is the consensus that it is ok to run the secondary directly on the circlip? Or is it best to machine the secondary and add more shims if necessary. I am at 62mm with the factory spacer/washer that separates the inner side of the secondary from the circlip holding the bearing.

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NO ISSUE at all running without a washer. Done it for thousands of miles.
I have run without the washer and also have run without the circlip too, don't need either on the shaft. The circlip is 1.5mm as I recall.
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Looks like I will pull the washer and see where that puts me, from what I understand I will have to adjust belt deflection after offset.
The clutching game is all new to me, coming from a few polaris sleds with better aligned clutches from factory, or not enough power to shred them lol
The clutching game is all new to me, coming from a few polaris sleds with better aligned clutches from factory, or not enough power to shred them lol
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I recommend to machine the extra and put the washer back! I recently worked on a sled that the cir clip grooved the shaft..
I got it machined flat and reinstalled the washer/spacer
I got it machined flat and reinstalled the washer/spacer
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I just did mine and removed 4mm and have 2mm washer in and offset measures exactly 57.8. I figure close enough to 58mm. I hope it now keeps heat down in secondary! We shall see!


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I hope everyone that cuts down their secondary for offset is checking to see that the secondary doesn't hit the bearing mount at full shift.
Mine did.
It was time to pull engine stub shaft and fix due to migration of shaft bearing in housing.
Mine did.
It was time to pull engine stub shaft and fix due to migration of shaft bearing in housing.
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Not sure why you couldn't remove the circlip and put a circlip in the bearing housing instead like Cat does
SideHogger
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Fixed my stub shaft too and measurement still out at 60.8 mm. All is good now.I hope everyone that cuts down their secondary for offset is checking to see that the secondary doesn't hit the bearing mount at full shift.
Mine did.
It was time to pull engine stub shaft and fix due to migration of shaft bearing in housing.
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