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Getting rid of the roll over valve

I quess for me and the type of riding I do, my main concern is more that I make it back problem free at the end of the day. (So no oil leaks). I’m worried more about keeping it out of the trees than I do track side up. I usually put on 200 plus miles a day when we’re riding and have to do my fixes at home the next week. Nothing ruins a weekend sledding more than working on my sled or someone else’s on the trail when I should be putting miles on.
 

I hear you Dan, leave it open and keep the track side down!
 
I don't know what the big deal is about losing oil if you roll your sled over. Carry a couple qts of oil in your rear bag if it worries you. If you roll your sled and you lose oil the only way you will hurt anything is if you ride it without adding more oil. The sled will be fine as long as you shut it down and don't let it sit there and run upside down for a long time. Also from what I have read is the so called rollover valve on our sleds does nothing anyway if you roll it over.
 
I’m with you xp 123, I would rather take the chance of having to add oil that doesn’t leak back out than oil that leaks out a blown seal.
 
Or just pay the $ to buy a proven rollover valve and tether and ride worry free. I will be damned if I am going to carry oil on my 4st. Cmon guys if anyone ever saw that would never live that down. Don't act like I am the worry wart when you guys are adding plumbing and hose to fix a problem not one of you posting has even had.
 
Has anyone unhooked the hose off the top of the oil tank and blow through it to make sure the Rollover valve was not stuck before starting on a cold morning. It does take some pressure to open the first time before a ride.
 
Nice work Dan! I am going to follow Mikes design though. Your system has vacuum from the turbo inlet potentially drawing a small amount of oil and water vapor through the RO valve into the intake. I think your design will eliminate most of the vapor but unfortunatly not all.

Edit: As I wrote this I thought it would be good if anyone could confirm vacuum on the turbo side of the RO valve? I don't have my sled available. I suspect there is vacuum on one side of the valve and pressure on the other...
I don't think you will see anything getting past the rollover valve because it needs pressure to open. With Dan's mod there will be no pressure to open it.
 
I just finished mine....Used some plumbing items I had here already, and a rubber fuel line.

I just dont want any issues with leaking oil tank seal in these extreme temps...Plenty of vapors coming out this hose as I just tested it. Mine is tad different then Mikes as I left all the stock stuff in place, but same idea and no more pressure in tank.

Thanks Mike for the good imagination on this one, Nice work.

Dan

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I'm thinking I may go up just a little higher than you did Dan with the T. I figure the higher the better if you happen to tip the sled on it's side.
 
My ROV stuck NOT from water, but just gummed up.
I noticed over summer a couple of drops of oil on ground. A couple more rides & i might have been in trouble.
I researched cleaning the ROV valve. When i first blew in it.....nothing. I'm sure a cheap whore could have blew it free, but i had to use the compressor.
I also do NOT like oil in my intake so i plan on using KNAPP's method until a better solution comes along.
 
That is correct.

Also correct.



The air and vapor coming out of the tube is no different than I had with the Doo 1200 and I have never had it freeze up ever as there is plenty of heated air going thru it, but yes that is a concern I agree. One option is to put a slit in the tube up higher, Ski-Doo does this on the stock 1200's and if I remember correctly, I think the Apex have a slit cut into the tube as well in case it freezes on the end of the tube. Just a 1" slit cut into the tube would give it a relief valve so to speak.

What I have found in the real world is the air coming from the tube is heated and poses no icing concerns that I have seen on the 1200 Doos, and in reality the YamaCat should be even warmer in this department with the added exhaust and oil tank heat, hence the reason I used the reflective heat foil tape on it.

The volume of air coming out of it is no different that I've seen from the 1200 Doo, I'm confident that the Rotax vent "rollover" valve will work fine as well. The Doo uses the same oil scavenge pump design as the Yamaha does, but I'm not too concerned running straight thru without a valve for now. The Suzuki never had any type of valve from the factor at all either.
Using a slit in the hose is also done on the MPI stage 1 turbo vipers
 
Mike....

OK, what would be wrong with a smaller diameter tube? Im just thinking out loud here.

It should still allow for pressure/vapor escaping as its open at the end, same as yours.....

I just wondered as it seems a smaller diameter hose/tube would be easier to install in there, and look good too.

Would a small hose like fuel line(clear tube) melt though?

On our oil tank, we have a clear hose where we can view our oil level, and it does NOT melt. So why not just run something smaller like this, in exact same manner as you did?

Nothing wrong with yours, just thinking smaller hose, and I have lots of that size stuff around the shop and so It would be nice to rig this up without having to do a run to town.

Let me know your thoughts on diff diam hose

thnx
Dan
Dan, this post explains why you don't want to do that

Getting rid of the roll over valve
 
I can tell you guys arent listening and most probably think they will never roll there sled. Ok. Move on. I have rolled my Viper 3 times. Twice was just on its side and once was on purpose and totally upside down(Stuck). Point is on its side is far more likely. Right side with bar end stuck in snow that hose bend wont do a thing. You will have alot of oil come out within 30 seconds. Both times it rolled on side it was the right side. Without valve I lost 1.5 qts almost instantly. Second time had valve and just lost prime. No oil loss at all. Third time I was stuck and could not get out so turned key on pulled tether to activate rollover valve filled hole rolled it back,started and drove away. Before advising this hose mod think about other people and how ticked they will be if something goes wrong. Because it will happen.
Exactly!!!
I'm not dissing this fix at all. I like the idea of removing all those vapors from the intake tract. That is exactly what the MPI stage 1 and up kits did. Their kit vented out of the oil separator into the engine compartment but it had a filter on the end of the hose. But we need to make sure people realize this isn't the right fix for everyone. Anybody who goes out carving in powder and playing off trail should not do this in my opinion.
 
Exactly!!!
I'm not dissing this fix at all. I like the idea of removing all those vapors from the intake tract. That is exactly what the MPI stage 1 and up kits did. Their kit vented out of the oil separator into the engine compartment but it had a filter on the end of the hose. But we need to make sure people realize this isn't the right fix for everyone. Anybody who goes out carving in powder and playing off trail should not do this in my opinion.
I understand the concern but from what I have read the stock rollover valve stays open and all the oil comes out anyway unless you shut the sled off immediately.
 
I understand the concern but from what I have read the stock rollover valve stays open and all the oil comes out anyway unless you shut the sled off immediately.
That is true. But the hose has potential to dump the oil running or not. And once again I'm not taking away from the idea. I like it, it's simple and effective for the right person. But I've seen too many people over the years here do things suggested in threads that are not right for them and have catastrophic consequences. I will always point out the downside to everything so people can make informed decisions. Even on things I like and do myself, like the #*$&@ welds on my new muffler that I just took out of the box.
 


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