Getting rid of the roll over valve

[KnappAttack]

Mike,

The valve holds pressure back, so very little oil vapor blows into the intake tract.

With your setup, that tube is wide open.....nothing holding the vapor/pressure back at all.

So why wont this just blow alot more oil out?

If the stock setup has a spring/valve holding back all the pressure and oil vapor, and it still sends oil into intake tract, I just feel like with NO valve or pressure, alot more oil is going out that tube.

I guess you can run it and let us know if you see your oil level dropping alot faster then stock setup.

I sure hope they come up with a proper gasket fix....man this stuff really bugs me.

Dan

Well the CFM coming from my free flowing tube is not going to change, but the pressure will be down in the tank all the time. So what ever comes out the tube on mine comes out the tube on the stocker also, I just hold less pressure on the tank as it takes pressure to open the valve even when its working properly. The valve does not hold any oil or vapor back at all Dan unless it stuck shut. The vapor and pressure in the tank has to go somewhere and its going to take the path of least resistance and the oil mist and vapor mist are going to go with it no matter the path its taking.

What is making the pressure is combustion blowing past the the rings, and to be honest, the less crankcase pressure there is the better the rings will seal. Thus the reason you see Pro-Stock car and motorcycle racers using vacuum pumps on the crankcase. So any little bit of pressure you can take off the better too.

Even if they fix the tank seal and give us a gasket, it does not fix the problem causing the failure in the first place and that's the lousy valve that is really NOT a roll over valve at all, but a spring loaded check valve. If the engine is running and it's on its side or top, the valve is not stopping the flow of oil literally pouring out in the turbos intake than thru the entire intake system and thru the engine anyway. The only way the valve stops flow of oil, is if the engine stops running, which may or may not happen. Many reports that the engine stays running and sucks the oil right thru the engine anyway. Its a worthless valve if the engine is running.

 

[Chris Rose]

This is what I’ve done to get rid of the problematic valve. Just a hardware store 5/8" ID hose wrapped with foil heat tape, looped it up and over down to under the running board. Let bottom hang and inch or two below the board. You can see how much blowby you have also.

I plugged the line where the stock hose went into the turbo intake with a rubber 3/8" ID cap stretched over the intake turbo tube nipple and clamped.

Now the intake is not getting that blow-by exhaust and no worry of the supposed factory "roll over" valve sticking shut and blowing out the oil tank seal again.

It worked fine on my turbo 1200 Doos for years this exact same way.

I was going to install a 1200 roll over valve but haven’t yet as the space to do so is pretty limited. It’s been over 20 years since I’ve rolled any machine and am not to worried about it not having a valve, for now anyway.

Not telling anyone to get rid of it, but I’m not going to have my oil tank seal blown out on a trip. I’ve already sealed it once as it was leaking.

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This is a real roll over valve from a 1200 Rotax I had planed to use, but space is tight and I may or may not put it in down the road. I'm not to worried about rolling over anyway. The old Suzuki 1100 turbo never had a roll over valve either...

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I like the loop idea for the roll over protection, have got the hose and wondering where to get the insulation tape? Thanks for the simple fix.

 

[34pontiac]

Hardware store by the heating ducts, vents usually.

 

[ryama]

Thank You Mike,
I took your advice and copied what you did.Guys like you make it so easy for the rest of us.

 

[KnappAttack]

Ran this setup out in the field tonight and it works exactly the same on my Winder as it did on on my Turbo 1200 Doo. I was a bit worried about heat on the hose, but it's a non issue. Works as designed and no pressure buildup in tank at all. Only thing coming out of the tube is water vapor which is exactly what I expected.

The 270 Hurricane Race tune hauls the mail too! Son of a ----- it hooks and books like no other. No worry about transfer here on the 137, hooks and hangs the skis like a mofo. ZERO lag any any point and pulls massive clutching with normal progressive AND aggressive helix! Way different than the lame setup I rode last season on my buddies tuned Winder that was so lacking down low and thru mid-range. Extremely happy with the way it works! Hurricane High-Flo muffler is nice and quiet too! Ya-hooooo!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Ran this setup out in the field tonight and it works exactly the same on my Winder as it did on on my Turbo 1200 Doo. I was a bit worried about heat on the hose, but it's a non issue. Works as designed and no pressure buildup in tank at all. Only thing coming out of the tube is water vapor which is exactly what I expected.

The 270 Hurricane Race tune hauls the mail too! Son of a ----- it hooks and books like no other. No worry about transfer here on the 137, hooks and hangs the skis like a mofo. ZERO lag any any point and pulls massive clutching with normal progressive AND aggressive helix! Way different than the lame setup I rode last season on my buddies tuned Winder that was so lacking down low and thru mid-range. Extremely happy with the way it works! Hurricane High-Flo muffler is nice and quiet too! Ya-hooooo!

Great to hear.....Everyone with this tune has been telling me Im gonna freak over the bottom end power....I cant wait! Wont be long now!

Im sure Ill need to order another helix!

 

[KnappAttack]

I see you took it right from the top of the oil tank. Could you take a pic where you plugged the other side? Thanks Mike.

 

[fatchance]

That's awesome Mike. I am sure as hell going with your design because I don't want to take the chance of that rollover valve freezing up and blowing out that silicone seal. Why the hell that tank isn't one piece just makes no sense! I'll be installing my shopping cart full of Dave's goodies over the weekend and can't wait to get to the lake.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Does anyone know what the fix is from Yam? Or when it will come?

I would not worry so much but tomorrow and sat are to be coldest days yet up here....And i sure will be pissed if mine pushes oil due to freezing valve.

with the underhood temps so extreme there at that valve, wouldn't these valves(if froze) thaw out instantly with such hot underhood temps?

Dan

 

[fatchance]

I'm not convinced there's enough heat there to prevent this from happening only due to the fact that this has happened many times. Think of it this way.....start your sled after a frigid night. The pressure comes up relatively quickly as the internals heat. This would be long before the engine heats the engine compartment and with that soft silicone being so susceptible it just can't take any excessive pressure.

 

[newtron]

I copied mikes design after I had my seal blow out. Work well so far!

There is a good amount of vapor coming out of the hose from the oil tank. I can see how the valve would freeze if you stopped along the trail for a period of time at these temperatures.

 

[KnappAttack]

Does anyone know what the fix is from Yam? Or when it will come?

I would not worry so much but tomorrow and sat are to be coldest days yet up here....And i sure will be pissed if mine pushes oil due to freezing valve.

with the underhood temps so extreme there at that valve, wouldn't these valves(if froze) thaw out instantly with such hot underhood temps?

Dan

Dan, I can tell ya if you put your finger over the hose, it builds pressure pretty fast. By the time that valve un-sticks, I'd think the damage is done to the seal.

One can always just bypass the valve and connect the factory hoses together too, I just didn't want the blowby and oil mist going into the intake anymore at all.

 

[cannondale27]

Another option is Four Stroke Solutions Rollover Valve. He does have a kit for you guys now. I would toss that factory valve and put his in its place. Problem solved and you get a Tether too!
http://fourstrokesolutionsllc.webs.com/

 

[fatchance]

Sounds like the valve Joe LTX was talking about. Pretty pricey at $329. That's a tough sell.

 

[KnappAttack]

Sounds like the valve Joe LTX was talking about. Pretty pricey at $329. That's a tough sell.

I was thinking the same thing. Plus the complexity. At some point I may add the 1200 Rotax roll over valve in. I'd just need to pick up a tight 90 hose elbow to make it work properly. The Rotax roll over valve is just a simple valve that will close off the flow if rolled on the side or upside down.

I like the KISS principal the best. The less complex the better.