• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Getting rid of the roll over valve


Tired of getting oil in the intake, so I'm definitely bypassing it. But I will keep my heated ROV, since I'm actively throwing it around as a 2-stroke. If the hose before ROV freezes, then I'm deleting the ROV and installing a better oil tank seal.

View attachment 172279

Turned the pipe towards exhaust side.



View attachment 172280

Using the original tubing, then extending with 5/8" fuel hose with angled cut and a slit as mentioned numerous times. Not gonna heat wrap it.
I may do something like this.
I don't want the oil in my air box/clutch but don't care to bypass the valve as I never have had a problem with it in 13k miles. I am trying to decide where to vent the hose.
Instead of fuel hose, look for transmission line. It is made to withstand oil.
 
I also am looking into bypassing and get rid of nonsense weight. My only question with bop bypass is should i be concerned about condensation being dumped into valve train of motor from this? i iony say this cause i have noticed oil/condensation in my intake track from stock rov setup? the oil tank definitely does create condensation maybe it is not enough to worry about? just a thought
 
I also am looking into bypassing and get rid of nonsense weight. My only question with bop bypass is should i be concerned about condensation being dumped into valve train of motor from this? i iony say this cause i have noticed oil/condensation in my intake track from stock rov setup? the oil tank definitely does create condensation maybe it is not enough to worry about? just a thought
You bring up a really good point About the condensation. I’m not a certified mechanic and hopefully someone will chime in, but Im thinking the heat of the oil in the motor would burn off any condensatio. I hope I’m right if I’m im wrong someone correct me please.
 
In my opinion the motor is still venting just not back in to your intake. As far as condensation is concerned the motor heat will vaporize it the same. Mine only drips water out of the hose till its good and warm. My intake hoses etc are spotless. If your not rolling it over it's the way to go. Also if you loop the vent hose up near the steering and back down by the right foot well it would be difficult to evacuate much oil if rolled. Again this is just my opinion but I think that is how most have done it.
 
I have two hoses routed down to the right footwell area.
One from the tank up and around with a big loop and the other is from the valve cover down to the foot well.
 
I have two hoses routed down to the right footwell area.
One from the tank up and around with a big loop and the other is from the valve cover down to the foot well.
Mine is an 2018. The newer ones were changed. Never looked at one close but i know they were making a mess and getting oil on the clutch so I think they were just routing them to the ground. Sounds like you should be fine.
 
Mine is an 2018. The newer ones were changed. Never looked at one close but i know they were making a mess and getting oil on the clutch so I think they were just routing them to the ground. Sounds like you should be fine.
I have been running mine like that for a number of years with no issues.
Have to rid of that EPA crap.
 
I may do something like this.
I don't want the oil in my air box/clutch but don't care to bypass the valve as I never have had a problem with it in 13k miles. I am trying to decide where to vent the hose.
Instead of fuel hose, look for transmission line. It is made to withstand oil.
I meant to say oil hose, not fuel hose! I installed a gas hose that withstands high temps and is made from a substance that works well for oil. I'm thinking the original ROV won't fail. Btw it took a lot of force to turn the hose connector towards exhaust but definitely possible.
 
Last edited:
I meant to say oil hose, not fuel hose! I installed a gas hose that withstands high temps and is made from a substance that works well for oil. I'm thinking the original ROV won't fail. Btw It look a lot of force to turn the hose connector towards exhaust but definitely possible.

Any issue with running the hose down the left side through the left footwell or would the right side be better?
 
Any issue with running the hose down the left side through the left footwell or would the right side be better?
Left side would be a tight fit because of the secondary and guard. Right side has higher temps, I think the slush would drain out easier there.
 
Anyone have to readjust their hose every so often? Mine seems to sag more and more a the year goes on, kinda like life.

But I love pulled it up and put new zip ties on it. Some sort of clamp may be better.
 
I may do something like this.
I don't want the oil in my air box/clutch but don't care to bypass the valve as I never have had a problem with it in 13k miles. I am trying to decide where to vent the hose.
Instead of fuel hose, look for transmission line. It is made to withstand oil.
 

Attachments

  • 20230327_135442.jpg
    20230327_135442.jpg
    74.4 KB · Views: 104
If yours has the valve on the water tank (2017-) you can route a hose around the tank and use the original ROV mounting post as a clamping post. You can use (2)1/2 and (1) 45 degree copper water elbows with the 1/2 inch fuel hose to go right around the tank and back down. I tried to make a loop, but it just kept trying to kink. This way I know there isn't any reduction in diameter.
 


Back
Top