Ive figured Id do the same...have it come on with the key in the acc position..but mighty had a good point...lets say your sled is off at night and you hear some machines coming..and for whatever reason (like you had gone to take a leak) you don't have to turn key...just flip a switch...to be seen...
I guess they are about the same function but, with just the less...the draw is less...
super , whats the difference between yours going to rocs outlet or going to the accessory port down by the chain case?
I guess they are about the same function but, with just the less...the draw is less...
super , whats the difference between yours going to rocs outlet or going to the accessory port down by the chain case?
WINDER1987
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What kind of wiring harness comes on them? Does it turn into a rca plug?
WINDER1987
TY 4 Stroke Guru
What has to be done to wire them so they come on with the key but also can turn them on when the key is off sitting on the trail ? Or is this a bad idea ?
I believe if you use the accessory port down by the chain case...run a extension up (i would run in aluminized sleeve) that when you turn the key to your accessory detent...the headlight , taillight and accessory comes on?
it does mean you are burning battery with all of those if you don't need them all on..not like a regular bulb of course
AXR
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You could put on a dbl pole toggle switch. Wire 1 side to the acc jack and 1 side to the battery. But really my as well just wire it right to the battery because you could just switch it on and off vs having to flip it depending how you want it powered. I use one of these switches so I can decide between a 12v battery pack or the acc circuit. When the sled is not running I run my led's off of 8 AA batteries in a battery pack.
In reality if you are just planing on using the sled's power for the leds there is no point in using the acc connection if you want them to be on when the key is off. If you need more info on how to wire that switch let me know.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-20-Amp-Double-Pole-Toggle-Switch-GSW-16/100210997
Id prefer the switch wired to the battery...butI don't want to drill holes...any thoughts?
super1c
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There would be no difference. I already had roc's thing hooked up to run my GPS so it made sense.
Put the switch right in the handgaurd
3UR
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If you want to have lights come on with key in the on position. Here's what I did
I replaced the female spade terminals on the rear of the 12v accessory outlet. I wired power madd module in a new insulated female spade terminal along with factory wire. I did that for power and ground circuits at the rear of the 12v accessory outlet.
I used double sided tape to mount power mad module to top of air box under the gauge cluster.
I installed disconnects similar to what you use on a battery tender for the right-hand and left-hand hand guards and then the Power Madd module. Very easy to disconnect or reconnect with headlight/hood removal.
Power MADD kit comes with bullet style connectors. I thought the battery tender style connectors will hold up better to multiple disconnect and reconnect.
You can do all of this with the hood/headlight assembly removed. I did all work with hood on the living room floor. LOL
It was very easy plenty of room to work. Caution when you take the female spade's off the back of the 12 V outlet make sure you maintain the correct polarity.
I replaced the female spade terminals on the rear of the 12v accessory outlet. I wired power madd module in a new insulated female spade terminal along with factory wire. I did that for power and ground circuits at the rear of the 12v accessory outlet.
I used double sided tape to mount power mad module to top of air box under the gauge cluster.
I installed disconnects similar to what you use on a battery tender for the right-hand and left-hand hand guards and then the Power Madd module. Very easy to disconnect or reconnect with headlight/hood removal.
Power MADD kit comes with bullet style connectors. I thought the battery tender style connectors will hold up better to multiple disconnect and reconnect.
You can do all of this with the hood/headlight assembly removed. I did all work with hood on the living room floor. LOL
It was very easy plenty of room to work. Caution when you take the female spade's off the back of the 12 V outlet make sure you maintain the correct polarity.
WINDER1987
TY 4 Stroke Guru
3UR do you have any pics of the finished product and the wiring ?
3UR
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I will post some tomorrow.
3UR
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RDAY, well I could not let sled alone in the trailer. So I pulled it apart to show you some pics.
Picture of hood, NOTE: hood has removed from sled.
Picture shows module on top of air box.
Picture showing module wires. The wires coming out of the left side of module follow wire loom(conduit) up to rear of 12v Accessory port. The wires coming out of the right side of module goes directly to the connectors for left and right Handguards. FYI the wire does NOT run under the hood.
Picture of back side of 12v Outlet
Picture showing wiring from hand guards with wire connectors
Left and Right side hand guard connectors that connect directly to module
I know pictures are dark, hope this helps.
Picture of hood, NOTE: hood has removed from sled.
Picture shows module on top of air box.
Picture showing module wires. The wires coming out of the left side of module follow wire loom(conduit) up to rear of 12v Accessory port. The wires coming out of the right side of module goes directly to the connectors for left and right Handguards. FYI the wire does NOT run under the hood.
Picture of back side of 12v Outlet
Picture showing wiring from hand guards with wire connectors
Left and Right side hand guard connectors that connect directly to module
I know pictures are dark, hope this helps.
Very nice job 3UR and thanks for the excellent writeup and pics!
3UR
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Cannondale 27, thanks. I started to use this site after I ordered my LTX-LE. I've pulled wayvmore info from the site than I have contributed. It's nice to be able to add to site.
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