My RTX LE 50th BUILD THREAD-ROCKERDAN

[ROCKERDAN]

Dash flash is so cool and useful!
Dan since you replaced the Stubshaft with Hurricane how has the alignment been effected?

I did not replace stub shaft. I just removed mine to check a few things out, and see if mine moved some.(which it did)

The Hurricane stub shaft should be identical when it comes to alignment I assume. Interesting thought you bring up, Maybe Dave should consider making his stub shaft a tad longer outward. Since it seems most of us have to remove approx 3 to 4mm off secondary to get aligned using his bar/method.

It sure seems like the stub shaft is a smart upgrade for those who will keep these long term. Seems I find more and more guys with miles piling up, showing lots of wear in primary pins, rollers ect...just way too much harmonics coming from this engine beating up clutch parts, hence the rattle. Cat's TEAM primary is quieter, and could be if its heavier?? I have never weighed the TEAM vs YAM primary, but our primary sure seems light, and seeing how Dave's Stub shaft is a heavy mass to dampen the harmonics, it makes me think the TEAM is heavier possibly, and maybe its parts will hold up longer. Time will tell.

Dan

 

[cannondale27]

I did not replace stub shaft. I just removed mine to check a few things out, and see if mine moved some.(which it did)

The Hurricane stub shaft should be identical when it comes to alignment I assume. Interesting thought you bring up, Maybe Dave should consider making his stub shaft a tad longer outward. Since it seems most of us have to remove approx 3 to 4mm off secondary to get aligned using his bar/method.

It sure seems like the stub shaft is a smart upgrade for those who will keep these long term. Seems I find more and more guys with miles piling up, showing lots of wear in primary pins, rollers ect...just way too much harmonics coming from this engine beating up clutch parts, hence the rattle. Cat's TEAM primary is quieter, and could be if its heavier?? I have never weighed the TEAM vs YAM primary, but our primary sure seems light, and seeing how Dave's Stub shaft is a heavy mass to dampen the harmonics, it makes me think the TEAM is heavier possibly, and maybe its parts will hold up longer. Time will tell.

Dan

Oh I thought you did. Dave did say he made the Stubshaft 1/8 in. Or 3.175mm longer.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Oh I thought you did. Dave did say he made the Stubshaft 1/8 in. Or 3.175mm longer.

Wow, that is great! I had never heard that. Maybe if I keep her I will try his stub shaft next yr, or be changing to TEAM clutches. Will see!

 

[cannondale27]

Yes.

We had this shaft made to move the clutch out drone the engine 1/8inch to fix the offset problems. It’s a ten min job to install

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Removing the float while using the BOP belt adjuster

I was able to set up my BOP adjuster very nicely. Travis should like this! So anyone with the BOP adjuster, this is an easy setup with a few easy mods and a 35mm OD washer.

This setup will allow for belt deflection adjusting, and also removal/installing belts as we all love, and will remove the float fully or just the amount you want.

Lowering the offset as per the Hurricane alignment bar, Secondary hub backside gets machined down, and so the secondary slides inward approx 3 to 4mm. To reduce the massive amount of float that is produced afterwards, material needs to be cut off the stock aluminum float plug. So first get your secondary exactly where the Hurricane bar wants it.

Once secondary is sitting perfect with Hurricane alignment bar, insert the stock alum float plug. The alum float plug will get cut down close to flush with outer hub..... When I cut mine, I left it a tad longer then flush, and used an old Apex shim OVERTOP of the Alum float plug to remove the float down to approx .2mm(Basically nothing). These shims are much larger and fit over the alum plug like the apex used to have(pics below).....I like to allow for this small spacing so there is no side loading when bolted tight.

NOTE: Initially the amt left hanging out of my HUB was 7mm!(check yours as not all will be exact same). That large amount of float, is increased if using the belt adjuster, as hub may float inside the adjuster even further outward once into the shift. This is where the 35mm washer comes into play.

Next in line to the newly cut down float plug, you need a larger fender style washer, be sure its thick enough too. I found fastenal has 10mm X 35mm OD X 2.5mm thick.

Next we use the 4 small washers that Travis includes in his adjuster. This helps as the main bolt he gives you is very long, and also helps with adjuster to remove belts.

Next is the adjuster itself.

Next I use a large washer outside, i chose one that is a tad larger then BOP threaded adjuster diam, so if the adjuster ever came loose, it cannot spin off.

Now the adjuster works as a deflection tool and also a belt change tool too. Possibly Travis will include a 35mm large washer for guys who want no float

Remember, the '12 cats had this float setup with the helix, and they were belt killers, and now the new Cat 998s are locked down like the doos, and sure enough their belt life seems reasonable. Time will tell.

Dan


Notice the thin Apex shim on left, overtop of Alum float plug.

Float plug,Apex shim, 35mm fender washer, 4 washers came with BOP adjuster, BOP adjuster, large washer.

Apex shim sitting overtop of stock float plug,dials in perfect amt of float(.2mm now,so basically nothing)

All tightened up and deflection set where I want with Adjuster, also used for removing belts easily.

Fastenal washer Part#: 11512281

 

[Fast]

I did not replace stub shaft. I just removed mine to check a few things out, and see if mine moved some.(which it did)

The Hurricane stub shaft should be identical when it comes to alignment I assume. Interesting thought you bring up, Maybe Dave should consider making his stub shaft a tad longer outward. Since it seems most of us have to remove approx 3 to 4mm off secondary to get aligned using his bar/method.

It sure seems like the stub shaft is a smart upgrade for those who will keep these long term. Seems I find more and more guys with miles piling up, showing lots of wear in primary pins, rollers ect...just way too much harmonics coming from this engine beating up clutch parts, hence the rattle. Cat's TEAM primary is quieter, and could be if its heavier?? I have never weighed the TEAM vs YAM primary, but our primary sure seems light, and seeing how Dave's Stub shaft is a heavy mass to dampen the harmonics, it makes me think the TEAM is heavier possibly, and maybe its parts will hold up longer. Time will tell.

Dan

Dan check out the cat form seems the cat(team) clutches are worse than the Yamaha they all want Yamaha clutches

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan check out the cat form seems the cat(team) clutches are worse than the Yamaha they all want Yamaha clutches

Im over there alot....Have not seen that at all. Will check again soon though.

Dan

 

[Fast]

Im over there alot....Have not seen that at all. Will check again soon though.

Dan

Go to hardcore sledder.com section on team clutches

 

[Fast]

Go to hardcore sledder.com section on team clutches

Any thoughts on my overdrive question

 

[snowbeast]

Belt adjuster(BOP) & limiting the float

I finally got some more washer sizes to try a few other secondary setups. I was able to set up my BOP adjuster very nicely. Travis should like this! So anyone with the very nice BOP adjuster, this is an easy setup with a few easy mods and a 1.25" fender washer.(I have some 35mm OD washers coming, hard to find , 1.25" works but a tad on small size)

Same as everything I did previously, except this will be able to adjust deflection and also remove/install belts as we all love.

How this all started:

Lowering the offset as per the Hurricane alignment bar, Secondary hub backside gets machined down, and so the secondary slides inward approx 3 to 4mm. To reduce the massive amount of float that is produced afterwards, I also then removed that same amount of material off my stock aluminum float plug(4mm). This will allow for approx 1 to 2mm of float. Some guys are trimming back their stock float plug til its flush with the hub, I decided to leave approx 1mm.

Initially the amt left hanging out of my HUB was 7mm!(check yours as not all will be exact same). That large amount of float, is increased if using the belt adjuster, as hub may float inside the adjuster even further outward once into the shift.

So to change this, I lessened the float to 1mm....that means the stock alum float plug will stick out of the hub 1mm when secondary is slid fully back, and at the spot the Hurricane alignment bar wants it to be.

Then you need a larger fender style washer, be sure its thick enough too. Easiest I came across was 1.25" OD x 3/8" bolt size(needs to be larger OD then HUB)....you will need to drill out the center just a tad for the 10mm bolt to slide through nicely. I could not find any 10mm fender washers that were large enough OD. This larger washer will be directly against the hub, so it cannot float out past that large washer.(found fastenal has 10mm X 35mm OD, perfect)

Next we use the 4 small washers that Travis includes in his adjuster. This helps as the main bolt he gives you is very long, and also helps with adjuster to remove belts. Then the adjuster itself, and then you can use the large stock factory washer outside if you want. Now the adjuster works as a deflection tool and also a belt change tool too. Possibly Travis will include a 35mm large washer for guys who want no float.

IMO a small amount of float is good, as not to side load the Jshaft bearing, not that it will happen for certain but I would think it may contribute to shortened bearing life. And I think 1mm of float is not a bad thing. It was the massive 7mm+++ amounts that were killing us(maybe?) . Remember, the '12 cats had this float setup with the helix, and they were belt killers, and now the new Cat 998s are locked down like the doos, and sure enough their belt life seems reasonable. Time will tell.

Dan


View attachment 143034

View attachment 143036

1.25'' Fender washer(10mm X 35mm OD is best, Fastenal has em)
View attachment 143038

Approx 37mm overall stock float plug(yours may differ)
View attachment 143037

Fastenal washer Part#: 11512281
View attachment 143129

Hi Dan,i found it,is that fender washer 10mm thick,how does that effect your float?

 

[snowbeast]

Hi Dan,i found it,is that fender washer 10mm thick,how does that effect your float?

Dan I only had to remove 2mm from my secondary shaft,so is that what I should remove from the stock plug?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Dan I only had to remove 2mm from my secondary shaft,so is that what I should remove from the stock plug?

Pete, watch the video and look at pics above...

I suggest after you get alignment correct with Daves bar....you mockup secondary without spring, and then see how much your float plug sticks out past HUB. As I have shown in video/pics...then cut off float plug so its flush(no float) or leave 1mm out(1mm of float) past hub....then use the large 35mm washer and stack of washers and BOP adjuster as I have shown above.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

RED lower nose piece(bellypan)

*Updated Dec 25th - Installed pics!

I really like the '19 models which come with a red lower nose section. As soon as I saw this i wanted to get this for my '18, as the price is not bad at all. Approx 42$.

It was not avail for awhile...and when the '19 microfiche came online, I ordered it! Well, a black nose piece arrived same as my stock one....Grrr....Turns out YAM messed up with the early fiche, and showed the DX model under SE model. So I sent it back and showed them the problem with the fiche, and they agreed. So I figured out the correct part number for the red SE model nose piece. And it just arrived today, even though they told me backorder til late Dec! So i'm pretty psyched.

Even came with the reflectors attached.

Just got it installed....Pics below.
Dan

RED part number

Side by side....Red to stock black

Remove side panels and hood

First remove one T20 torx screw lower front, remove main grill, remove secondary inner grill screen

Now there are 2 torx screws exposed(left and right) remove them

Now remove the large main torx screw underneath

Now remove 2 torx screws underneath, at the rear-most edge

Work the stock nose piece off the bumper...

Remove, and reinstall this clip onto the new RED nose piece

Work the new red nose piece onto the bumper, reinstall all the screws and grills in reverse order that you removed

Comparison new Red to Black stock nose piece, I really like it!

 

[Rtbo]

I got the blue one for my 17 ltx le but it didn’t come with the reflective tape and Yamaha wanted too much for them

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I got the blue one for my 17 ltx le but it didn’t come with the reflective tape and Yamaha wanted too much for them

That is interesting...Funny cause It looked like reflectors were additional on fiche, and I could care less as I like them without. And can always add black reflective which looks nicer then the yellow....

But to my surprise, they came on there already.

Yeah the blue will look nice on blue models for sure, like SRX.

Dan