It makes sense that with the front flange forward and rear flange the opposite there should be some tension in the arms so that the flanges are the primary wear surface. But it only needs light tension to accomplish this.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
True. For now I think I’ll leave the back one unmodified so the a-arm/ball joint is in the correct position and then just modify the front bushing a little so there’s slightly less pressure on it.
I decided a few weeks ago I wanted to go back through the steering and front suspension one more time and get it as light as possible. Small gains to be had but I don’t want to leave anything on the table when it comes to the front end.
I’ll start with the tie rods first. I cut 0.20” off the outer rod end studs, replaced the steel washers I was using as spacers with aluminum spacers I made and got titanium bolts and nuts for the steering arm side.
Steel bolts & nuts, steel washers, cut off stud pieces
Ti bolts, Ti nuts and Alu spacers
Tie rods complete with all hardware only 1.42 lbs
On the steering post, I rounded off the corners on the aluminum bushing straps, replaced the steel bolts and steel K nuts with shorter low profile torx head titanium bolts and thin titanium nuts. These bolts just happen to come in black.
Steel hardware
Titanium replacements
4.88 lbs for the entire steering setup. Includes the steering post, lower pivot tube, straps, all hardware and tie rods.
On the suspension side of things I ordered titanium bolts to replace the 4 upper a-arm and 4 shock bolts. The tie bolts were way lighter, all 8 steel bolts were like 186 grams iirc.
Ti and steel comparison
All 8 Ti bolts.
I couldn’t find a titanium replacement for the upper a-arm rod end bolt. It’s an oddball size. But I did figure out that a K nut fits and they are way lighter.
Factory nuts
K nuts
In all I reduced the front end hardware by 0.26 lbs.
I also cut 0.20” off the lower ball joint studs. I got the complete front suspension weight down from 19.5 lbs to 19.23 lbs. Not a huge gain but I won’t think about the front end anymore and can focus on other stuff.
I’ve also been working on redoing all the ski hardware to try and get a complete ski under 5 lbs. I’m not quite done though, will be a few days before I’m ready to post the details.
I decided a few weeks ago I wanted to go back through the steering and front suspension one more time and get it as light as possible. Small gains to be had but I don’t want to leave anything on the table when it comes to the front end.
I’ll start with the tie rods first. I cut 0.20” off the outer rod end studs, replaced the steel washers I was using as spacers with aluminum spacers I made and got titanium bolts and nuts for the steering arm side.
Steel bolts & nuts, steel washers, cut off stud pieces
Ti bolts, Ti nuts and Alu spacers
Tie rods complete with all hardware only 1.42 lbs
On the steering post, I rounded off the corners on the aluminum bushing straps, replaced the steel bolts and steel K nuts with shorter low profile torx head titanium bolts and thin titanium nuts. These bolts just happen to come in black.
Steel hardware
Titanium replacements
4.88 lbs for the entire steering setup. Includes the steering post, lower pivot tube, straps, all hardware and tie rods.
On the suspension side of things I ordered titanium bolts to replace the 4 upper a-arm and 4 shock bolts. The tie bolts were way lighter, all 8 steel bolts were like 186 grams iirc.
Ti and steel comparison
All 8 Ti bolts.
I couldn’t find a titanium replacement for the upper a-arm rod end bolt. It’s an oddball size. But I did figure out that a K nut fits and they are way lighter.
Factory nuts
K nuts
In all I reduced the front end hardware by 0.26 lbs.
I also cut 0.20” off the lower ball joint studs. I got the complete front suspension weight down from 19.5 lbs to 19.23 lbs. Not a huge gain but I won’t think about the front end anymore and can focus on other stuff.
I’ve also been working on redoing all the ski hardware to try and get a complete ski under 5 lbs. I’m not quite done though, will be a few days before I’m ready to post the details.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Trimmed down both steel mounts to match the rounded off straps.
Left the rear a-arm sleeve unmodified.
On the fronts, the shoulder stock is 0.170”, I took it down to 0.080” and then made 0.090” aluminum spacers. That took nearly all the pressure off the a-arm.
Suspension and steering are 100% done, there’s nothing left that is going to bug me.
I’ll start wrapping up the skis next.
Left the rear a-arm sleeve unmodified.
On the fronts, the shoulder stock is 0.170”, I took it down to 0.080” and then made 0.090” aluminum spacers. That took nearly all the pressure off the a-arm.
Suspension and steering are 100% done, there’s nothing left that is going to bug me.
I’ll start wrapping up the skis next.
fantastic work as always!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
A little more bling. Always wanted to replace the 8mm engine mount and starter bolts with Ti.
74Nitro
VIP Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2013
- Messages
- 5,410
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Dublin Ontario
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2019 Sidewinder LTX
Pretty. When Yamaha came out with the 700 Viper in 2002, it featured the first digital speedo. The sensor gear mounted on the end of the drive shaft was held on with a fancy hollowed out bolt. However, that was where the bling started and ended lol.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I have a 7075 bolt coming to the replace the Ti bolt currently securing the speedo gear lol. Ordered some 7075 hardware for the skis a week ago and got one 10mm for the speedo gear and also a couple 6mm to secure the sensor. Eventually I’ll get a few more for the chaincase cover. There’s a ton of weight to be saved in hardware.
