Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Wrapped up the heat shields and finished cleaning up all the pieces.
For the plate the header goes through I drilled and tapped additional holes in the chromoly tube so I could use the same screws to secure both pieces and save weight on tabs and fasteners.
Lower heat shield in place.
Both heat shields. The top piece has insulation, the bottom does not so it will gain a little weight. The steel bolts will be replaced with aluminum.
Need to pick a material and make the sides of the tunnel now.
When I was planning the build I wanted to keep the heat shields under 1.5 lbs and all the tunnel skins/enclosures under 4 lbs, that would get me my 50 lb frame with the complete cooling system.
.040 7075 upper piece is 1.06 lbs
.040 7075 front piece is 0.93 lbs
.050 2024 header piece is 0.39 lbs
.032 5052 heat shield support is 0.11 lbs
Heat shields w/ steel bolts 0.77 lbs
At 3.26 lbs for all of it right now. So I have 2.24 lbs to cover the sides of the tunnel.
For the plate the header goes through I drilled and tapped additional holes in the chromoly tube so I could use the same screws to secure both pieces and save weight on tabs and fasteners.
Lower heat shield in place.
Both heat shields. The top piece has insulation, the bottom does not so it will gain a little weight. The steel bolts will be replaced with aluminum.
Need to pick a material and make the sides of the tunnel now.
When I was planning the build I wanted to keep the heat shields under 1.5 lbs and all the tunnel skins/enclosures under 4 lbs, that would get me my 50 lb frame with the complete cooling system.
.040 7075 upper piece is 1.06 lbs
.040 7075 front piece is 0.93 lbs
.050 2024 header piece is 0.39 lbs
.032 5052 heat shield support is 0.11 lbs
Heat shields w/ steel bolts 0.77 lbs
At 3.26 lbs for all of it right now. So I have 2.24 lbs to cover the sides of the tunnel.

kinger
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I love this and wish I had the patience, time and tools to do it...I do not so you must finish it haha
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I need to start thinking about a fuel tank. My plan was to weld one up out of aluminum using a mix of .063 and .080. I’ll get a fill neck and cap from Wahl Bros, and use the fuel tank string foam to control sloshing and save weight vs baffling. Where I’m stuck is the fuel pump. I don’t have a way to machine my own adapter to take the Nytro fuel pump.
I’m thinking an external fuel pump may be best/easiest here. Anyone have a recommendation?
Edited: Found an old thread recommending the MSD 2225. Can anyone confirm if these are good?
www.summitracing.com
I’m thinking an external fuel pump may be best/easiest here. Anyone have a recommendation?
Edited: Found an old thread recommending the MSD 2225. Can anyone confirm if these are good?

MSD Ignition 2225 MSD High-Pressure Electric Fuel Pumps | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - MSD High-Pressure Electric Fuel Pumps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fuel Pumps at Summit Racing.
Last edited:
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Worked on enclosing the tunnel some more. Had to do a little filler piece up front on the clutch side. Used .040 7075, this piece was 0.15 lbs. The rest of the inside from the bearing holders back will either be thin HDPE or single layer of carbon fiber.

zx4ever
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Order up a wallbro gsl 392 best pump for the nytro turbo I have went thru a few msd pumps before I started using wallbro. Don’t worry about using stock nytro pump as it is close to not enough fuel for the turbo anyway. Just buy some wallbro fuel pickups. one in front and one in back and your good to go.
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I need to start thinking about a fuel tank. My plan was to weld one up out of aluminum using a mix of .063 and .080. I’ll get a fill neck and cap from Wahl Bros, and use the fuel tank string foam to control sloshing and save weight vs baffling. Where I’m stuck is the fuel pump. I don’t have a way to machine my own adapter to take the Nytro fuel pump.
I’m thinking an external fuel pump may be best/easiest here. Anyone have a recommendation?
Edited: Found an old thread recommending the MSD 2225. Can anyone confirm if these are good?
![]()
MSD Ignition 2225 MSD High-Pressure Electric Fuel Pumps | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - MSD High-Pressure Electric Fuel Pumps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fuel Pumps at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
Get a Walbro GSL392 pump, use a relay to power the pump from the battery and use the fuel pump wires to activate the relay. You'll also need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as well.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
For the sake of finishing this some day I decided to use the .040 7075 aluminum for everything forward of the 3/4 round vertical tube. Behind the tube will be HDPE or CF.
Made the second piece for the clutch side, 0.11 lbs.
Frame tube curves in at the top. I’ll trim the header plate to match after I get the chaincase side done and take everything back apart.
Next up is the large piece for the chaincase side.
Made the second piece for the clutch side, 0.11 lbs.
Frame tube curves in at the top. I’ll trim the header plate to match after I get the chaincase side done and take everything back apart.
Next up is the large piece for the chaincase side.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Template was a pain for this side.
Work in progress. Have a couple more screw holes to add and then I need to drill the holes for the jackshaft and driveshaft.
Work in progress. Have a couple more screw holes to add and then I need to drill the holes for the jackshaft and driveshaft.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Finished the chaincase side. Added a small .063 steel tab to the bottom 1” tube so snow wouldn’t push the .040 aluminum out. Also had to add a small 90 degree support by the jackshaft hole to keep the aluminum pieces in the correct position, used .032 for that.
This piece was 0.47 lbs.
Then had to see if I could install the track. I have to install the track and driveshaft first, then slide the jackshaft in from the chaincase side, then install the chaincase over the shafts. It’s a little slow but not difficult by any means.
Made the holes large enough to account for any flex in the aluminum but didn’t want to go too big and let a ton of snow through.
That was a huge job behind me. Sitting at 3.99 lbs for all the aluminum pieces and heat shields. Need to see if I can keep the tunnel sides under 1.5 lbs for both.
This piece was 0.47 lbs.
Then had to see if I could install the track. I have to install the track and driveshaft first, then slide the jackshaft in from the chaincase side, then install the chaincase over the shafts. It’s a little slow but not difficult by any means.
Made the holes large enough to account for any flex in the aluminum but didn’t want to go too big and let a ton of snow through.
That was a huge job behind me. Sitting at 3.99 lbs for all the aluminum pieces and heat shields. Need to see if I can keep the tunnel sides under 1.5 lbs for both.
Brotherdan
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Great job that looks awesome, now you have to learn how to make your own carbon fiber panels!!Finished the chaincase side. Added a small .063 steel tab to the bottom 1” tube so snow wouldn’t push the .040 aluminum out. Also had to add a small 90 degree support by the jackshaft hole to keep the aluminum pieces in the correct position, used .032 for that.
This piece was 0.47 lbs.
View attachment 178740
View attachment 178742
Then had to see if I could install the track. I have to install the track and driveshaft first, then slide the jackshaft in from the chaincase side, then install the chaincase over the shafts. It’s a little slow but not difficult by any means.
View attachment 178741
View attachment 178743
Made the holes large enough to account for any flex in the aluminum but didn’t want to go too big and let a ton of snow through.
View attachment 178744
View attachment 178745
View attachment 178746
That was a huge job behind me. Sitting at 3.99 lbs for all the aluminum pieces and heat shields. Need to see if I can keep the tunnel sides under 1.5 lbs for both.

kinger
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I can confirm the GSL392 from walboro is great. Zero issues on BOB
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
What regulator are you using?I can confirm the GSL392 from walboro is great. Zero issues on BOB
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Still can’t decided what to do on the tunnel sides. HDPE needs a lot of fasteners and I’ll have to shield around the turbo.
I cut a piece of .040 7075 but this time cut it to fit the entire lower area to see what it would look like. Thinking I might do something like this and leave the top open, if it absolutely sucks (snow getting thrown out) it would be easy enough to pull it off and use it as template to make a full height piece from carbon fiber that covers the whole side.
I cut a piece of .040 7075 but this time cut it to fit the entire lower area to see what it would look like. Thinking I might do something like this and leave the top open, if it absolutely sucks (snow getting thrown out) it would be easy enough to pull it off and use it as template to make a full height piece from carbon fiber that covers the whole side.



earthling
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The snow getting thrown out is going to be somewhere between annoying and unmanageable. I would be more concerned about the top being open than the bottom. All of the snow being thrown from the track is going to be along the top of the tunnel. The sides not nearly as much. At minimum, I would enclose the top of the tunnel entirely and if you want that open framework look, then leave the bottom open to see how that works.... [edit] looking closer, I see that the top of the track is still where the lower opening is. I still vote for closing it in entirely.
Last edited:

kinger
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I am using the Aeromotive compact unit. Its the smallest lightest one I could find about a decade ago.What regulator are you using?
Compact EFI Regulator
Part Number: 13105
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