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Offset wrong under load? Video

wonder why these triples have such a high initial torque value. the apex's are 85 ft lbs then have the same secondary torque values as ours. wonder why they need to be 23lbs tighter
 

PowderFalcon said:
wonder why these triples have such a high initial torque value. the apex's are 85 ft lbs then have the same secondary torque values as ours. wonder why they need to be 23lbs tighter
Click to expand...

There you go thinking again,,, without the equipment!!
 
Video is something that should not be looked at for conclusions. I have done this every sled I've ever owned and its near impossible to get the real data on cam(for the viewer). I'm not saying this is a bad thing, after all I have been doing this for yrs when noone else cared.lol

What I mean is....you need to figure this out with your EYES watching, and come to the conclusion first. The video is more or less fluff IMO. Every sled ive run the belt up on stand, has been OFF by eye, some more then others. And I have shimmed them all according to my eye and lowered belt temps. So I believe these type of tests are always helpful.

My videos below(for comparison sake) to yours. Stock mine was set to 62++mm.....and I could detect the slightest dogleg by eye. I eyed it up first tho, then measured...and it concurred with where I felt it needed to go. So I then removed shim, got it closer to 61++mm...and did another eye'd up run, and it looked dead nuts straight bottom to top. Basically could not get it any straighter.

My conclusion was that the 61mm spec is perfect. Anything LESS is bad as the secondary wants to float inward under load. And it will float outward on backshift within the float limits of whichever adjuster you own or till hub hits large stock washer. But I will say the outward movement is rare, and secondary nearly 100% of the time stays inward fully. Only on high speed run up and throttle chop does it try to move outward a tad.

My videos:

62++ mm offset(slight dogleg)


Correct 61++mm offset(perfect) (older video lots of changes since this so some of what im saying back then has changed.lol)
 
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Soupy....

Have you tried to go back to stock just for comparison sake? I have been all over the place testing and its interesting how I am getting back closer to stock all the time.

Just to see how much heat you have with entirely stock setup.

Dan
 
ROCKERDAN said:
Video is something that should not be looked at for conclusions. I have done this every sled I've ever owned and its near impossible to get the real data on cam(for the viewer). I'm not saying this is a bad thing, after all I have been doing this for yrs when noone else cared.lol

What I mean is....you need to figure this out with your EYES watching, and come to the conclusion first. The video is more or less fluff IMO. Every sled ive run the belt up on stand, has been OFF by eye, some more then others. And I have shimmed them all according to my eye and lowered belt temps. So I believe these type of tests are always helpful.

My videos below(for comparison sake) to yours. Stock mine was set to 62++mm.....and I could detect the slightest dogleg by eye. I eyed it up first tho, then measured...and it concurred with where I felt it needed to go. So I then removed shim, got it closer to 61++mm...and did another eye'd up run, and it looked dead nuts straight bottom to top. Basically could not get it any straighter.

My conclusion was that the 61mm spec is perfect. Anything LESS is bad as the secondary wants to float inward under load. And it will float outward on backshift within the float limits of whichever adjuster you own or till hub hits large stock washer. But I will say the outward movement is rare, and secondary nearly 100% of the time stays inward fully. Only on high speed run up and throttle chop does it try to move outward a tad.

My videos:

62++ mm offset(slight dogleg)


Correct 61++mm offset(perfect) (older video lots of changes since this so some of what im saying back then has changed.lol)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info Dan. It's much worse by eye, which is why I'm chasing this problem and decided to post. All looks great on the stand, offset is 60.7mm, belt appears straight, but the belt still overheats & blows after 1-200 miles. I was riding pretty slow trails last wknd and got to an opening and blew the belt in 2 seconds.
 
ROCKERDAN said:
Soupy....

Have you tried to go back to stock just for comparison sake? I have been all over the place testing and its interesting how I am getting back closer to stock all the time.

Just to see how much heat you have with entirely stock setup.

Dan
Click to expand...
Yes, long ago. Been blowing belts since new. Reinstalled clutch tuning components because it doesn't seem to matter what I run, still lots of heat.
 
Soupy said:
Thanks for the info Dan. It's much worse by eye, which is why I'm chasing this problem and decided to post. All looks great on the stand, offset is 60.7mm, belt appears straight, but the belt still overheats & blows after 1-200 miles. I was riding pretty slow trails last wknd and got to an opening and blew the belt in 2 seconds.
Click to expand...

Do you feel your primary(stub shaft) is moving inward? It sure sounds like this is what you are explaining.

I have often wondered about the stub shaft, and if/how it can move in/out.....also never understood why any clutch bolt would ever have to be torqued down over 85ft lbs...seems nuts. Must be some reason YAM wants this torqued this way.

Im now down 2 belts myself....but both were basically self inflicted I believe. At 270hp and how I beat this thing, i dont blame the belt. I dont have any heat out of ordinary.

If your belts are stripping down, pulling cords ect....that is heat. My 8JP went into tiny pieces, so I think it just gave up due to HP.

Have you tried stock clutching? ALL stock(just add your weights to get rpms where you want) and see how heat is....It does sound like you have other issue but Im seeing cooler temps the closer I get back to stock.

Dan
 
How are you guys measuring the offset? I am using a tape measure making sure it is level and straight and I get 2-3/8 in which is 60.3 with NO shim behind secondary. I put 550 miles on all stock clutching and offset which was 61.3 and no issue. Changed to my clutching setup in signature wrapped to 3-3 and adjusted the offset to 60.3 by removing shim and across lake at full throttle belt went.
 
I think there should be a poll.....how many belts blown with STOCK clutching VS how many without stock.

The guys running closer to stock clutching seem to do better....

Im getting closer to stock now, and seeing less and less heat.....

You guys need to remember stock primary spring is a LIGHT finish rate.

But I think SOUPY has something else going on.
 
Good idea. I think the reason for the majority of blown belts is heat related first and offset playing a smaller cause.
 
Soupy said:
Million pcs
Click to expand...

Under constant power or in and out? Also is the traction consistent or slipping than catching?

My only break (knock on wood) was traction variation from loose to catch on top of a knob. Belt just snapped.

No question with variations in traction we need to use some caution with this much power. All that dynamic load gets chased somewhere. If I were to choose something to fail it would be the belt.
 
HMTurbo said:
Under constant power or in and out? Also is the traction consistent or slipping than catching?
Click to expand...
Mine blew when slipping in powder and catching tracks on lake....seems like this is when you need to really be easy on things, I was only going along half throttle and mine went into pieces then.
 
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