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Rear Seat Torcs screw Solution....

If I go turbo the local dealer is really getting big into Hurricane. Interested in how yours turns out. He was pushing those instead of MPI.
 

Did a lot of research on turbos. Spoke extensively with a lot of people. Each setup has benefits. But liked the 190 HP Hurricane because of the oversize injectors which provides a cooler burn, uses the PCV like most others, has the intake where it won't get too hot (behind but to side of rad), and this year has a bigger and quieter Hindle can .... now 90db at idle instead of the prior 100db. Dave uses the 8JP belt and has had no issues with it when used with the rest of his clutching (including machining the sheaves) .... and gets around 125 mph with stock gearing on the RTX-LE 1.25. I'm running the 1.7 lightly studded, so expect about 5 mph less. I do aggressive trail riding mostly in north or northwestern Quebec and northern Ontario (too much traffic around here), so want the overdrive machining. Won't be using the sled until late January tho, so won't be able to report "real" on trail experience til end of that month. Dave said last year his guys were getting at least 5,00o k's on a belt as long as they didn't mess with his clutching. Also said you don't really need boost or A/F gauges as no one had any issues last winter (evidently he had 100 out there). I test rode one at my dealer (Bracebridge Yamaha, Ontario) last spring and really liked it. Plus it's supposedly an easy 2.5 hour install. Jury is out but my dealer has sold 4 units this fall. Install should be complete in a couple of weeks as unit will ship this week.

Have been riding Doo's for the last decade. 800 etec can really dangle but still a 2 banger and don't want to test the longevity. One year, I was the only guy out of a dozen that didn't have significant problems. But last year was my turn with endless electrical gremlins. Will dearly miss the Rmotion tho .... it's a treat as you can change the preload in 5 seconds or adjust for whoopdees in 10.
 
Sure was Hijacked LOL, Never the less a nice post with good info for those interested in boosting a viper. That rear Torx screw thing was played out anyway!
I have a tendency to wonder off path to. Its all good info.
 
The number one solution to the Torx problem is to use proper size, don't use the almost fits #27 when you need a #30.
The automotive industry has converted to Torx because it vastly superior to Phillips, blade or most other screw heads.
And why does the seat have to come off that often.
 
The number one solution to the Torx problem is to use proper size, don't use the almost fits #27 when you need a #30.
The automotive industry has converted to Torx because it vastly superior to Phillips, blade or most other screw heads.
And why does the seat have to come off that often.

I agree, If you need to take the seat off that often you have bigger problems than the type of fastener holding the seat on!
 
Thx for the info on the turbo. One thing I had heard that there was little testing on the kit for the mountains, which I might run one or two times a year, but it sounds like a pretty sound kit at lower elevations. Don't think I'll be hitting those top speeds with the 2.25" track!

As for the torx screw. Being an engineer by profession I think we have much more to study on this. Stress, strain, preload, thermal analysis, static and dynamic load analysis, etc. I think we may be on to what really makes this chassis work with this one screw. lol
 
Obviously we need snow and the trails open real bad. 5 pages on a screw thread, whew!
 
The number one solution to the Torx problem is to use proper size, don't use the almost fits #27 when you need a #30.
The automotive industry has converted to Torx because it vastly superior to Phillips, blade or most other screw heads.
And why does the seat have to come off that often.

The issue is not taking the seat off often, nor is it failure of the OE fastener. It is convenience to be able to remove at will and without tools. The way it stands if you had a dead battery out in the field you would need a torx bit to get to the battery under the seat.

The aluminum ones gall up the threads possibly electrolysis, corrosion, etc.
 
The issue is not taking the seat off often, nor is it failure of the OE fastener. It is convenience to be able to remove at will and without tools. The way it stands if you had a dead battery out in the field you would need a torx bit to get to the battery under the seat.

The aluminum ones gall up the threads possibly electrolysis, corrosion, etc.

umm.....no. Hook it to another sled (or battery box if at cabin) with your cord that has accessory plugs on both ends. You do have one of those right? ;) http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-DC-12V-...304?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a9bffabc8 DISCLAIMER: I have not bought from ebay link above it is only included for illustration purposes.
 
Is it really big enough gauge for boosting though. I doubt it

I have used them since my Nytro days. Before I could get the updated ECU for my Phazer I used this sometimes pretty hard, mine came with my battery box and carries more load than expected.
 
I have used them since my Nytro days. Before I could get the updated ECU for my Phazer I used this sometimes pretty hard, mine came with my battery box and carries more load than expected.
So you found that the system fuse held during a boost too or did you essentially fast charge and therefore limit the amps?
 
So you found that the system fuse held during a boost too or did you essentially fast charge and therefore limit the amps?

Just plugged the cable into my battery box and cranked, never had an issue. I am sure there are cases where you could melt the cord or blow a fuse but I did not.
 


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