Space behind primary?

Ummmm, why does that look like a broken stub shaft still in that drive clutch? I see where the primary has moved in and worn away at the sheave, but whats going on where the shaft is supposed to sit?
I notice that too , but not schooled enough on how to ask the question .
It looks like something is not parallel , as the top of the clutch appears to be worn less than the bottom .
The middle thingy is also worn less on the top than on the bottom ???
 
Wow, no SCHIITT!

Was it big big power? What does Dave think?

That is not good....

270 race... dave was really good …. stub got welded in there I guess … I couldn't press it out … sent clutch to dave … he replaced taper and inner sheave … just got clutch back yesterday
 
no … It was with stock stub after a couple belts broke.. stub moved in on the bearing … I was chasing the alignment and im guessing that's why … I didn't know it had moved till I took it apart to install daves stub
 
Art,
I hope you disassembled the shaft, cleaned and re-loctite the shaft on the bearing using something like green 638 or such so it doesn't happen again. Probably like the oil tank seal, where Cat's not using enough sealer on the oil tank, Yamaha is probably not using enough loctite or even any loctite on the shaft from the factory, blow a belt and boom, over it goes.

I sure hope they bring back the Apex or R1 engine, turbo it and put it in a decent chassis, that means something like a ski-doo chassis too, not a poor engineered Cat. This three cylinder 998 clutch ratteling hunk of crap is for the birds! They didn't do their home work on this 998!
I don't know About that Mike. I read all about the 998 in the 2017 Yamaha brochure and they went all out to build the most reliable most advanced turbo charged snowmobile engine ever.
 
This could very well be one of the leading causes of reoccurring belt issues. Once one blows badly it knocks in the bearing and rubs on the bolts as well. An absolute probematic issue that we as owners should not have to re-engineer ourselves. Disgusting.
 
This could very well be one of the leading causes of reoccurring belt issues. Once one blows badly it knocks in the bearing and rubs on the bolts as well. An absolute probematic issue that we as owners should not have to re-engineer ourselves. Disgusting.


I'd believe that.

Beerman was just down and we moved his fairly easily in the press. We cleaned it up and re-assembled with 638 loctite. The part that surprises me was the fact that the part that moves is the larger outer race inside the housing assembly, I thought it would be the PTO shaft moving inside the inner race, but not the case on his.
 
I'd believe that.

Beerman was just down and we moved his fairly easily in the press. We cleaned it up and re-assembled with 638 loctite. The part that surprises me was the fact that the part that moves is the larger outer race inside the housing assembly, I thought it would be the PTO shaft moving inside the inner race, but not the case on his.
Thanks again Mike, much appreciated!

It's guys like Mike that make this such a great site and a "community" for us all to learn from. As a group, we're getting close to figuring out these clutching issues.
 
Thanks again Mike, much appreciated!

It's guys like Mike that make this such a great site and a "community" for us all to learn from. As a group, we're getting close to figuring out these clutching issues.


Happy to do it and meet you as well Art.

Same can be said for you and lots of others here. sharing ideas even secret clutch recipes and working as a group is the way we are going to figure this stuff out. It takes a village to improve these issues. An idea here and an idea there will get us to where we need to be on these things.
 
This could very well be one of the leading causes of reoccurring belt issues. Once one blows badly it knocks in the bearing and rubs on the bolts as well. An absolute probematic issue that we as owners should not have to re-engineer ourselves. Disgusting.
is it even possible for the bearing to move inward … doesn't the bearing press up against the seal and the seal gets pressed up against crank case …. when the bearing holder is tighten up with the 4 bolts there is no way for it to move .. pls correct me if I am wrong ….. my issue was the stub moved inward on the race toward the engine … if I were to guess ,the race was out near 1/8 of an inch out from where it was suppose to sit .
 
This is very interesting. Seems like two issues from this stub. Subscribed. Is there anything else that can be done? Is green loctite going to work for the long haul?
 
This is very interesting. Seems like two issues from this stub. Subscribed. Is there anything else that can be done? Is green loctite going to work for the long haul?
well I had put the green Loctite on the hurricane stub when I installed it …. when we tried to press the piece of the stub that was still in the bearing out with a 20 tonne press.. there was a lot of pressure on it to the point I was using 2 hands to pump on the press.... when it finally broke free it sounded if a bomb went off I the shop...
 
I'd believe that.

Beerman was just down and we moved his fairly easily in the press. We cleaned it up and re-assembled with 638 loctite. The part that surprises me was the fact that the part that moves is the larger outer race inside the housing assembly, I thought it would be the PTO shaft moving inside the inner race, but not the case on his.
Yep...same as mine...

One hard SNAP on hard accel did it for me...just once. When removing the primary, I can see a 1mm space there(outer race) where mine moved in. My offset went from NEW at 61mm to 62mm....I knew I didnt measure it wrong.lol

I would assume the splines would bottom out, not allowing the stub to move inward after 1mm or so....but its looking like more then that if sheaves end up hitting bolts. grrrr

Dan
 


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