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Updated Driveshaft 8JP-G7511-10-00---metallurgy testing

I doubt it's "crappy" tolerances. It's totally design intent. Any reputable machining company can measure tolerances to less than 4 decimal places (that's .0001 or less). They are machining the track shaft exactly to Arctic Cat specifications/blueprint. Arctic Cat design engineering designs and produces the part specifications. They are the ones who (as of this date) are specifying that the track shaft OD is less than the bearing ID. BTW - bearing manufacturers measure bearing components with lasers into the millionths of an inch. It certainly isn't their fault.
 

I doubt it's "crappy" tolerances. It's totally design intent. Any reputable machining company can measure tolerances to less than 4 decimal places (that's .0001 or less). They are machining the track shaft exactly to Arctic Cat specifications/blueprint. Arctic Cat design engineering designs and produces the part specifications. They are the ones who (as of this date) are specifying that the track shaft OD is less than the bearing ID. BTW - bearing manufacturers measure bearing components with lasers into the millionths of an inch. It certainly isn't their fault.

We are saying the same thing.
Crappy tolerances - Sure it is - some engineer spec'ed these tolerances and we are dealing with the fall out.

MS
 
My only point was it's Cat's fault, not some machining company hired to make shafts; or their bearing supplier.
What's Cat problem here after 11 years with same problem??!!!!!
 
My only point was it's Cat's fault, not some machining company hired to make shafts; or their bearing supplier.
What's Cat problem here after 11 years with same problem??!!!!!

For sure - we are saying the same thing.
Collectively the work we 'all' have put into this to avoid the issues associated - Brutal.
I live in Ontario and I am shipping a drive shaft to Vermont to have it pinned and a bearing slotted. Shipping in Canada is extortionist. The bill from that would leave you wanting. And - I will likely have to have it re done after this season.
Thanks Cat.

MS
 
For sure - we are saying the same thing.
Collectively the work we 'all' have put into this to avoid the issues associated - Brutal.
I live in Ontario and I am shipping a drive shaft to Vermont to have it pinned and a bearing slotted. Shipping in Canada is extortionist. The bill from that would leave you wanting. And - I will likely have to have it re done after this season.
Thanks Cat.

MS

You can get that work done locally, Peak Performance has a machine shop, is very familiar with the driveshaft, and can weld it to proper fitment so you don't have to pin it.
 
For sure - we are saying the same thing.
Collectively the work we 'all' have put into this to avoid the issues associated - Brutal.
I live in Ontario and I am shipping a drive shaft to Vermont to have it pinned and a bearing slotted. Shipping in Canada is extortionist. The bill from that would leave you wanting. And - I will likely have to have it re done after this season.
Thanks Cat.

MS

I've seen some posts that the pins wear over time with this set up. Any reason you don't want to try the set screw bearing? Just curious.
 
I've seen some posts that the pins wear over time with this set up. Any reason you don't want to try the set screw bearing? Just curious.
Pinning the shaft with my current set up is not permanent - was hoping it was. That pinn is grinding down and the slot in the bearing is being 'egged' (getting bigger). Gives you an idea how much force is hitting that shaft...... In the end i will get at least 2 seasons out of it. It works great - and the shaft is definitely not spinning.

I have the wedge - used it for a number of seasons but the shaft would still turn - not as much mind you - but it was still turning. I had it cranked to 55lbs. The wedge IMO - needs to be in at day one. Once it starts spinning and creates tolerances you are 'chasing your tail'.

I am not opposed to the set screw bearing at all. Frankly i was waiting to read more feed back. With past experience - if things arent just lined up and true - those set screws will spin as well. Chased a problem like this on my nytro. Was hoping the set screws would be a little bigger on the design. I am interested to see how it works.
MS
 
BOP wedge on a good shaft and it will go the life of the machine. TQ it properly as you spin the track and tighten so it doesn't end up crooked and flexing the chassis.

Pin and slot on the bearing and it will still wear. Bearing needs to be clamped to the bearing to prevent wear.
 
BOP wedge on a good shaft and it will go the life of the machine. TQ it properly as you spin the track and tighten so it doesn't end up crooked and flexing the chassis.

Pin and slot on the bearing and it will still wear. Bearing needs to be clamped to the bearing to prevent wear.
Shaft
 
Peak Performance?

Where are they?

Thanks
MS

Sorry, Peak Velocity, in Claremont

I should add that I have a BOP wedge and many BOP parts but if you want to go another route, no reason to send a driveshaft outside the country.
 
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I am not opposed to the set screw bearing at all. Frankly i was waiting to read more feed back. With past experience - if things arent just lined up and true - those set screws will spin as well. Chased a problem like this on my nytro. Was hoping the set screws would be a little bigger on the design. I am interested to see how it works.
I have installed a couple of these bearings. The tolerance on the BOP bearing to the shaft is MUCH tighter.
On my 2022 I installed the BOP bearing with zero miles on the sled. The stock bearing would slide off the shaft. I could turn the stock bearing on the shaft and watch the inner race skid on the shaft. I had to tap the new BOP bearing into place.
I then took the set screws out and just barely drilled a spot on the shaft for the screws to bite. Blue loc-tite the screws in place.
The tighter tolerance with the added set screws I believe will keep it from spinning.
 
I have two different places within 12 miles or less of me that will build these up and lathe them for $30
Add just enough that the bearing has to be tapped on for and interference fit.
Or make it the right size so that bearing slides on and use bop driveshaft saver.
 
I have two different places within 12 miles or less of me that will build these up and lathe them for $30
Add just enough that the bearing has to be tapped on for and interference fit.
Or make it the right size so that bearing slides on and use bop driveshaft saver.
Can you share ?
 
BOP wedge on a good shaft and it will go the life of the machine. TQ it properly as you spin the track and tighten so it doesn't end up crooked and flexing the chassis.

Pin and slot on the bearing and it will still wear. Bearing needs to be clamped to the bearing to prevent wear.
I must be missing something here, but how does spinning the track affect the alignment of the wedge? I don't see any force except for gravity acting on the wedge once it's in the hollow shaft, and I'm assuming even when tightened to 5 lb/ft there's not enough mass in the wedge for it to move and correct any misalignment when spinning the shaft. Or is it still relatively loose until you get to 30+ lb/ft? I have a new updated shaft from Yamaha on the way and will be installing a wedge. Thanks to all for the great info on this issue!
 


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