Wow never thought I would see the day the old Lincoln would come out to save day again. Remember the Phazer Stingray? Used it every weekend on that one!
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
Yep! Still miss the arm pulling take off on the supercharged Phazer! But you must be mistaken, only the Viper breaks down, no other Yamaha did!
Kruzenkelvin
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I saw the exact same thing on a Artic Cat a week ago. Great heads up and pix!!
Well I tell ya what. The RR's and all the race sleds have a bigger dia shaft. The Bolt is 10 mm longer with a shoulder about a inch long and the Sleeve is different also. All these parts will bolt right in the regular Vipers. I will use the RR/Race shaft and stock Sleeves for the weekend. Got the right side done and working on left. If time I will make a steel shaft. Little bit of weight wont be noticed there. Previous AC's that shaft was solid aluminum not hollow. Even if Yamaha denies this as warranty mine will not break there again. I will list part #'s later if you feel you want to upgrade this part. I made a new inner steel plate same thickness but much stiffer material carried it all the way down to running board and have a 90 deg bend which will be screwed to the board got tunnel fairly straight with Boosted Nytros help. Was definitly a two man job beating that straight. Finally a 1/8 in steel plate for outside. One more side to do. Sadly I couldnt find any AC green paint at hardware store!
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Still waiting on the collars and bolts for the RR shaft so put stock type in for now. I did get it together and joined a bunch of guys for some River running around here. What a relief. So much fun. I am fairly confident this repair will last. Of course tunnel will be replaced under warranty or not but if not under warranty will wait.
I do suggest doing the shaft upgrade or make your own from steel. If anyone has a failure like this and needs to ride I do have templates for the reinforcement plates I made. Just ask. All steel. Much stronger stiffer steel on inside same thickness as stock and 1/8in plate on outside. Got about a tankfull through it today. Looking for stuff to hit since going to Muni next weekend. Nothing moved or broke. Its good. Check it out.
Left side
Right Side
I do suggest doing the shaft upgrade or make your own from steel. If anyone has a failure like this and needs to ride I do have templates for the reinforcement plates I made. Just ask. All steel. Much stronger stiffer steel on inside same thickness as stock and 1/8in plate on outside. Got about a tankfull through it today. Looking for stuff to hit since going to Muni next weekend. Nothing moved or broke. Its good. Check it out.
Left side
Right Side
yamadoo
Yamadoo is a snowmobile ' aholic'.
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Nice work!
Another thing to check is these rubbers. I have almost 6000mi on and they are worn on angle. Could be from the destruction but either way something that could put stress on that shaft. They are cheap. Or tossem and put up with a little clunking now and then. RR and race sleds dont use the rubber.
I would like to thank TA Motorsports and Jeff for helping me get this through Yamaha. Its approved parts on the way including new tunnel. This is why you go to a good dealer. They understand and jump through the hoops to get things done! Is also why I buy Yamaha. They have always stood behind their product.
Thanks for digging up the RR stuff. Nice to know that mine is built a bit heavier. The rivets still work around a lot though based on the gray streaks on mine.
Yes it is. Guess I should have waited for a RR. Almost have one now. Word is those have failed also though but only the racers. I will get all the part #'s and pics together as soon as I get them. I would say for Non RR types if you ride the bumps and dont slow down you should get the stronger parts.
Here is complete RR shaft. Stronger bigger design. Those bushings on end are same dimensions other than the flange is thinner. They also are machined rather than powdered metal like stockers. I would imagine the RTX LE is same thing. Didnt have one on hand to check so all I have are Cat part #'s
8408-051=Bolts 2 needed
3604-791=Bushing 2 needed
3604-711=Front Arm axle 1 needed
3604-798=Center Shock Axle steel 1 needed
These are what I believe are the equivalent Yamaha Parts
8KN-G7465-00-00 = FRONT ARM AXLE 1 NEEDED
8KN-RA1A0-00-00 = BOLTS 2 NEEDED
8KN-RA805-00-00 = BUSHING 2 NEEDED
8KN-RA729-00-00 = CENTER SHOCK AXLE STEEL 1 NEEDED
8408-051=Bolts 2 needed
3604-791=Bushing 2 needed
3604-711=Front Arm axle 1 needed
3604-798=Center Shock Axle steel 1 needed
These are what I believe are the equivalent Yamaha Parts
8KN-G7465-00-00 = FRONT ARM AXLE 1 NEEDED
8KN-RA1A0-00-00 = BOLTS 2 NEEDED
8KN-RA805-00-00 = BUSHING 2 NEEDED
8KN-RA729-00-00 = CENTER SHOCK AXLE STEEL 1 NEEDED
DT
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1015 Viper
To sound retarded; what does "RR" stand for?
Do you think by the tapered wear of those rubber isolators in your slide link, that your shaft was bent for a while? Nice repair job, BTW.
Do you think by the tapered wear of those rubber isolators in your slide link, that your shaft was bent for a while? Nice repair job, BTW.
RAMSOMAIR
TY 4 Stroke God
Race Replica
Those with the RTX LE sleds already have the beefier parts just FYI.
The RR skid has the adjustable reservoir shocks and is easily identified by 2 pr of wheels outboard the rails in the front of the skid.
The RR skid has the adjustable reservoir shocks and is easily identified by 2 pr of wheels outboard the rails in the front of the skid.
No. I think that is how much it flex's then comes back. That amount of wear took a long time. Never took a straightedge under there but would have seen the bolts cocked in tunnel if shaft was actually bent before. I think it flex's then fails. Have seen bent ones but I believe those were bent just by hitting the rod putting suspension in. It is exactly like a tierod in every dimension. Doesnt take much of a hit to bend a tierod.
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