Another primary clutch failure

[Big_Phil]

A highly recommended and talented Performance shop that I deal with, and did my tunes and dialed my Winder in, says the TAPP Primary and Pro 4 Secondary is the “ultimate set up” (in their opinion). Nothing slower about any of that...in fact the performance of just the TAPP Primary alone is a huge upgrade, and both those clutches together, Far, far exceeds the stock set up. An expensive option for sure...but it’s far superior in every way compared to stock.

They’ve tested the set up(on Tuned Winders)and it has been beating(mopping up was their words) any of the stock clutched set ups ....it just plain works.

That’s where I think I’m heading for next season...or at least I feel that way currently.

Sounds like this shop knows what they are doing, but I would still be wary of increased performance and reliability claims. I can elaborate if you wish, but if you have a correct setup with the stock clutching, you wont gain anything by switching to a TAPP. Maybe if you go bigger turbo and start making over 350 horse and are serious about racing.

 

[Crossfire12]

Honestly, I was thinking the same way after hearing all these horror stories, but the belt blowing was just set-up issues and clutches breaking are also setup or lack of maintenance. I was looking to buy a TAPP, but there was no guarantee that belt life would be better and the sled would likely be the same speed or even slower. I can live the the rattles, I have over 11000 kms on my stock primary running at least 270r tune. I have over 5000kms on my primary rollers as well. The team clutches are junk. They crack or the bearing fails, and they are slower.

I have team primary and stm secondary , haven’t had a problem with neither, the bearing in primary is awesome,never have to worry about deflection, my friend has a SRX and he’s on his second clutch, the other cracked, he’s going TAPP you will gain, stronger built, billet ,larger clutches, top end , got to get the Yamaha blinders off , that’s all you can see big Phil.oh ya NO RATTLE.

 

[Big_Phil]

I have team primary and stm secondary , haven’t had a problem with neither, the bearing in primary is awesome,never have to worry about deflection, my friend has a SRX and he’s on his second clutch, the other cracked, he’s going TAPP you will gain, stronger built, billet ,larger clutches, top end , got to get the Yamaha blinders off , that’s all you can see big Phil.oh ya NO RATTLE.

Good to hear the primary is working out for you, if you're turned up, its only a matter of time till it fails. I have no Yamaha blinders or brand loyalty. I drive whatever is the best deal and can find and whatever will be reliable for me. The cost/benefit of getting a TAPP clutch, combined with the fact that nobody can guarantee belt life or performance makes it a big no for me. I ride my sled like I stole it for long trips, and I chisel it up and run it at local ice drags. I drove several Nytros before this sled, so the rattle doesnt bug me at all. Guess im used to it.

My brothers race Nytro runs stock clutches still, he will be getting an STM 4 post for next season only because the 3 arm cant hold enough weight, or get the engagement high enough, Currently running 350-360 horse.

My other brothers viper made 419 hp @ 32 psi at hurricane. We were running it at 35+ psi at the end of the season. 1.1 60ft times. STM 4 post and a stock viper secondary. What do I know tho.

 

[WinterWolf]

You know your stuff Phil....I appreciate the conversation. The rattle doesn’t bother me much either. But I know it’s just a matter of time before something gives in that stock clutch set up...especially with things turned up. It just seems like a weak link to me.

The TAPP and Pro 4 are super high quality, high performance and billet..and designed to handle big torque and big power, and handle it for long life. Just seems to make sense...

 

[NYTurbo]

After seeing several Yamaha clutches grenade on these 998s and how fast their wearing out and the fact that the cam arm damn near clears the roller on it's own Yamaha should be doing something here.

 

[Crossfire12]

M

Good to hear the primary is working out for you, if you're turned up, its only a matter of time till it fails. I have no Yamaha blinders or brand loyalty. I drive whatever is the best deal and can find and whatever will be reliable for me. The cost/benefit of getting a TAPP clutch, combined with the fact that nobody can guarantee belt life or performance makes it a big no for me. I ride my sled like I stole it for long trips, and I chisel it up and run it at local ice drags. I drove several Nytros before this sled, so the rattle doesnt bug me at all. Guess im used to it.

My brothers race Nytro runs stock clutches still, he will be getting an STM 4 post for next season only because the 3 arm cant hold enough weight, or get the engagement high enough, Currently running 350-360 horse.

My other brothers viper made 419 hp @ 32 psi at hurricane. We were running it at 35+ psi at the end of the season. 1.1 60ft times. STM 4 post and a stock viper secondary. What do I know tho.

Sounds like you know your #*$&@, you and your brothers after spending lots of money on theses sleds with a lot of trial and error , changing parts ,have figured it out, way to go !!!big Phil especially if you had Nytros.

 

[Mototown]

Out on the lake this weekend with a buddy of mine. First pull rolling on from about 30 mph, and this happened to him at about 100.

Things I know:

• STM weights
• Dalton B/G primary, Dalton B/O secondary
• 22/41, 8JP
• 1.25 Ice Ripper track
• Rollers had a bit of play in them and were going to be swapped out

It's been posted before, and I'll say it again -- these primary clutches NEED to be inspected frequently, and I would not be doing any hard pulls unless you know everything is 100% in your driveline.

I have no confidence in the stock primary, and won't be running it next season.View attachment 147949View attachment 147949 View attachment 147950
View attachment 147949 View attachment 147950 View attachment 147951

3rd picture,it's clear the rollers have no bushing in that picture, owner failed to inspect bushings which caused failure of clutch...

 

[Doowithblue]

Or make longer flyweights?

 

[Big_Phil]

You know your stuff Phil....I appreciate the conversation. The rattle doesn’t bother me much either. But I know it’s just a matter of time before something gives in that stock clutch set up...especially with things turned up. It just seems like a weak link to me.

The TAPP and Pro 4 are super high quality, high performance and billet..and designed to handle big torque and big power, and handle it for long life. Just seems to make sense...

Ya, those TAPP clutches looks legit. A riding buddy had one on his MCX 1200 Doo with alot of power, one of the ramps broke at like 20000kms, and didnt even destroy the clutch somehow. Apparently the part that broke has since been updated. Those 1200s used to eat stock clutches worse than a sidewinder too, lol.

I would say the primary rollers are the weakest link if you stick with the Yamaha clutch. Kinda shitty that Yamaha didn't test the clutching calibration and left the buyers to figure #*$&@ out. Could be worse, we could be riding a pPolaris 800 and be putting engines in every few 1000kms instead of clutches.

 

[STAIN]

Sounds like this shop knows what they are doing, but I would still be wary of increased performance and reliability claims. I can elaborate if you wish

Please do.

Nytro runs stock clutches still, he will be getting an STM 4 post for next season

STM does NOT recommend their clutch for this motor
No warranty on Nitro 1000 or Ski-Doo Triple motors as we do not recommend running these clutches on them.--right from their site.
Winter wolf, I assume you are talking about a Cat shop in Mass on the performance claims??

 

[WinterWolf]

Please do.

STM does NOT recommend their clutch for this motor
No warranty on Nitro 1000 or Ski-Doo Triple motors as we do not recommend running these clutches on them.--right from their site.
Winter wolf, I assume you are talking about a Cat shop in Mass on the performance claims??

Yes Stain..that is correct.

 

[Tcat100]

Sounds like this shop knows what they are doing, but I would still be wary of increased performance and reliability claims. I can elaborate if you wish, but if you have a correct setup with the stock clutching, you wont gain anything by switching to a TAPP. Maybe if you go bigger turbo and start making over 350 horse and are serious about racing.

Guarantee faster acceleration with a TAPP vs a flyweight clutch...just say'n.

 

[actionjack]

There is now too much BS on TY. Most of us have no clutch problems and every problem is exaggerated to the point of hyperbole. Im kinda f-in sick of it.

 

[STAIN]

Yes Stain..that is correct.

I think that he very knowledgeable, BUT is mostly a drag racer. Drag set ups and trail set ups can be very different.

 

[Tcat100]

I can see where serious drag racers would see a disadvantage with a TAPP on controlling engagement without effecting shift. With a TAPP, the spring seems to have less effect on engagement since the ramps/rollers have so much low end leverage compared to the "weak" leverage of a laid over flyweight. Indeed when I tried there much stiffer spring get peak rpms up, it didn't have all that much effect on engagement. The new TAPP ramps are flippable to address this, but I haven't tried that since it would make the clutch more aggressive (lower rpm) throughout the shift range, and with the plus 2 rollers it's already too aggressive. Again for anyone considering make sure you ask them for the stock or plus one rollers. Seems the plus 2s are for higher HP than the 270-280 most trail guys run. All this said, the TAPP is awesome for ordinary hard fast trail riding.