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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

Must depend on what part of the country you're from.
Bunny Ears/Rabbit Ears
Casserole/Hot Dish
Pop/Soda/Coke
Sled/Snow Machine;)


And Excellent work Travis! Every ProCross sled should have one of these.:Rockon:

Bunny Ears
Casserole
Pop
Sled.....for my my era and area...lol


Ok...so I,ve been keeping up with this thread very keenly. Great job on working out a fix for this SW issue Travis. Honestly, this "problem" is one of the few Winder issues that have led me away from buying one.

Lately, however, my right thumb and cerebral cortex have been "twitching".....feverously....

Been looking at a used Viper XTX that was built in April 2015, and has the "old" Nytro motor, but am not convinced that I'd be totally happy with it (power wise vs. my 09 Nytro XTX)....and am now thinking HARD on a Sidewinder!! This thread has helped for sure!!
 
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Bunny Ears
Casserole
Pop
Sled.....for my my era and area...lol


Ok...so I,ve been keeping up with this thread very keenly. Great job on working out a fix for this SW issue Travis. Honestly, this "problem" is one of the few Winder issues that have led me away from buying one.

Lately, however, my right thumb and cerebral cortex have been "twitching".....feverously....

Been looking at a used Viper XTX that was built in April 2015, and has the "old" Nytro motor, but am not convinced that I'd be totally happy with it (power wise vs. my 09 Nytro XTX)....and am now thinking HARD on a Sidewinder!! This thread has helped for sure!!

Get the Winder and just be done with it!! The power difference between what you have, and a 998 Winder is bigger than night and day! You won’t be disappointed. And then you could tune it if you wanted, and that’s when it really goes off the charts even more!!

Once you jump...you’ll wonder how you ever rode anything less before.?
 
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Random thoughts:
Its great that a solution, short of Yamaha updating the parts, has been proposed for this issue.
What is the bearing manufacturer's maximum interference fit, if any, for its inner race on a shaft? What amount of torque on the wedges center-bolt would be necessary to a achieve this?
If this interference spec. can't be determined/found, is it possible to apply enough torque to the center-bolt to cause the inside race of the bearing to start to expand? Whether this could occur would likely require that a bearing's outer race be cut off, the balls bearings to fall away, and a dial indicator place on the bottom of the inner race to measure any movement. And if there is radial expansion, how much would likely be within the bearing's acceptable operating range, if any?
And, if there is an acceptable level of expansion of the inner race, is it even possible to achieve without stripping out the threads of the center bolt or that of the wedge?
Also, is it "possible" that if the wedge were to be expanded to even the maximum dimension where it would either cause the inner race to exceed the manufacturer's interference specification, or the point just before the center bolt's threads would strip, could the wedge itself spin within the shaft?
This seems unlikely, as the entire wedge assembly has very little mass, and what mass there is is contained within, and close to, the shaft's centerline. Still, if the shaft's rotational forces, both accelerating and decelerating, were to cause the wedge to slip within the shaft, what would happen to the wedge assembly? Where could it move to, and would it interfere with any other components?
After all that....what's your solution???
I will feel better knowing I attempted to fix this problem versus worrying about it every time I ride. Thanks to all the guys that have spent time addressing this issue! I'll have my bearings screwed on tight!
 
Sorry for those having trouble. I have reported the problem to my web host. Orders have been coming through all weekend so it's not completely down.
I will follow up with those that reached out to me directly. I can send paypal invoices direct or cards over phone.

Doing some more experimenting on torque setting and finding that is not going to be the best way to set these. Torqe spec x is not going to yield same result on every sled as tolerances vary. Also finding as unit get seated multiple times same torque spec does not yield same expansion. Resistance of the lock itself increases as wedge gets drawn closer to the base of fingers, which further makes setting by torque inaccurate. I will be posting up a video later today to explain how to set it up.
Travis will you be at the toronto snowmobile show this month
 
This summer on rainy Saturdays, I replaced all my drive bearings. The inner chain case came out to press out the upper and lower bearings. The PTO side of the jack shaft had to have the bearing pressed off the shaft. I have a 20 ton old fashion rachet style press to do this.
The drive shaft was worn at least 1/8 of an inch due to the shaft spinning inside the inner race of the 6009 bearing. The bearing seemed fine but the dealer took it, shaft & rotor for warranty. The rotor had 1/8 inch trimmed off of the inner flange. On reassembly, I prick punched 4 spots on the drive shaft bearing surface, installed the bearing in the inner half of the caliper and put Locktite 680 on the inner bearing race. I used the 3 bolts that hold the caliper on to gradually pull the bearing onto the new drive shaft. This was done with 6465 miles on it in 2 seasons. This should last another 2 seasons.

Damn, taking that inner case out is a lot of unnecessary work. Just have to heat the cases with a heat gun around the bearings and the bearings almost slide right out.
 
Damn, taking that inner case out is a lot of unnecessary work. Just have to heat the cases with a heat gun around the bearings and the bearings almost slide right out.

Yup I found that video online about the heat gun trick after we did that inner case removal. That's the way to do it for sure going forward. One question I had was in the video I saw he had put the new bearing in the freezer I think before he went to put it in the inner case. Is that necessary and if so how long in the freezer?
 
Yup I found that video online about the heat gun trick after we did that inner case removal. That's the way to do it for sure going forward. One question I had was in the video I saw he had put the new bearing in the freezer I think before he went to put it in the inner case. Is that necessary and if so how long in the freezer?
Hr should be enough.
 
putting the bearing in the freezer will shrink the bearing. keep it in there as long as it takes for it to get completely cooled down. id say an hour to be safe.
 
putting the bearing in the freezer will shrink the bearing. keep it in there as long as it takes for it to get completely cooled down. id say an hour to be safe.

Just don't be tempted to go for the ice cream when retrieving your bearing.
Gaining 10 pounds before winter can be the difference if your a 1/4 or a 1/2 mile behind me on the trails.
 
Received all of my BOP fixes. Must say top notch quality. Thank you Travis! I set my bearing lock at 35ft/lbs. At 35ft/lbs I couldn't pull the caliper housing/bearing off but it's tough to get a good feel with the driveshaft in the sled. I think I feel better having it locked down anyway.
 
Question. On the bolt for the bearing lock...loctite/lock washer or just the bolt tightened down? Going to tackle this on the weekend and wondering what Guys are doing.
 
Question. On the bolt for the bearing lock...loctite/lock washer or just the bolt tightened down? Going to tackle this on the weekend and wondering what Guys are doing.
I used blue loctite.
 


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