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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

From the video, it sounded like Travis thought it would be best to not over-tighten the wedge so as to not "lock" it to the bearing. Tight enough to prevent the track shaft from spinning in it, but loose enough that it could move (albeit with some force) if need be. Seems like assembling with loctite would lock the bearing onto the shaft and not allow any movement. Do we know for sure if locking would cause problems? I believe some of us, especially early on when this problem was first identified, dimpled and then loctited the bearing onto the shaft. I rode all last winter this way and haven't seen any ill effects, unless I'm missing something. Travis has more experience with this whole thing.
Thanks again Travis!!!!

I don't see where locking it to the shaft would be an issue. It would just need to be released before the bearing would come off.
 

I don't see where locking it to the shaft would be an issue. It would just need to be released before the bearing would come off.
Nobody knows long term effect of totally locking it. That’s why I like this option. It’s your choice. Adjustable
 
I still say a thin lock/jam nut is needed on the bolt also .I know i''ll be adding one .
 
I still say a thin lock/jam nut is needed on the bolt also .I know i''ll be adding one .
It’s under tension so probably not needed but if so a thin sheetmetal washer that bend over bolt and flat on lock like a trailer hub nut or a Nordlock would work. Probably effect torque if Nordlock though.
 
I still say a thin lock/jam nut is needed on the bolt also .I know i''ll be adding one .

What is your logic for using a jam nut?

Bolt has to shoulder up against face to draw wedge in. How would you do that with a jam nut on the bolt?

Are you thinking a long bolt and then using jam nut to tighten wedge?
 
What is your logic for using a jam nut?

Bolt has to shoulder up against face to draw wedge in. How would you do that with a jam nut on the bolt?

Are you thinking a long bolt and then using jam nut to tighten wedge?
Must be thinking bolt might loosten over time? IMO that's doubtful w all the force against it.
 
What is your logic for using a jam nut?

Bolt has to shoulder up against face to draw wedge in. How would you do that with a jam nut on the bolt?

Are you thinking a long bolt and then using jam nut to tighten wedge?
Yes ,Because no one has used this yet ,and long term i'd rather be safe than sorry .Nordlock washer might work also .
 
Yes ,Because no one has used this yet ,and long term i'd rather be safe than sorry .Nordlock washer might work also .

You would not be gaining anything unless you plan to loctite the jam nut.

You could just opt to not grease the threads on bolt and loctite that.
 
You would not be gaining anything unless you plan to loctite the jam nut.

You could just opt to not grease the threads on bolt and loctite that.
Loctite will work
 
Random thoughts:
Its great that a solution, short of Yamaha updating the parts, has been proposed for this issue.
What is the bearing manufacturer's maximum interference fit, if any, for its inner race on a shaft? What amount of torque on the wedges center-bolt would be necessary to a achieve this?
If this interference spec. can't be determined/found, is it possible to apply enough torque to the center-bolt to cause the inside race of the bearing to start to expand? Whether this could occur would likely require that a bearing's outer race be cut off, the balls bearings to fall away, and a dial indicator place on the bottom of the inner race to measure any movement. And if there is radial expansion, how much would likely be within the bearing's acceptable operating range, if any?
And, if there is an acceptable level of expansion of the inner race, is it even possible to achieve without stripping out the threads of the center bolt or that of the wedge?
Also, is it "possible" that if the wedge were to be expanded to even the maximum dimension where it would either cause the inner race to exceed the manufacturer's interference specification, or the point just before the center bolt's threads would strip, could the wedge itself spin within the shaft?
This seems unlikely, as the entire wedge assembly has very little mass, and what mass there is is contained within, and close to, the shaft's centerline. Still, if the shaft's rotational forces, both accelerating and decelerating, were to cause the wedge to slip within the shaft, what would happen to the wedge assembly? Where could it move to, and would it interfere with any other components?
 
You scare me!
When i have "random thoughts", they usually have female body parts in them or a speedo in triple digits.

To answer your question, as uneducated as i can, there will be hardly any pressure on the race.
I've had to heat many bearings to get on or off so this pressure will be minimal.
If the bolt ever came out and the wedge broke free, it would rattle around in the shaft a bit & eventually fall out the end.
Travis proved that once it's stretched, it actually stays stretched a tad, so the worse case scenario is, you'd be back to stock conditions.

You need to relax in life. I suggest a nipper of some good Rum before posting. Maybe the brand BUMBU, cuz again, you scare me!
I envision all Mainers like the guys in "Temp Tales", not highly educated well thought guys like your self.

P.S: when i talk about SPEEDO i mean SPEEDOMETER, not those thongs that old Frenchmen wear on Florida beaches
 
Random thoughts:
Its great that a solution, short of Yamaha updating the parts, has been proposed for this issue.
What is the bearing manufacturer's maximum interference fit, if any, for its inner race on a shaft? What amount of torque on the wedges center-bolt would be necessary to a achieve this?
If this interference spec. can't be determined/found, is it possible to apply enough torque to the center-bolt to cause the inside race of the bearing to start to expand? Whether this could occur would likely require that a bearing's outer race be cut off, the balls bearings to fall away, and a dial indicator place on the bottom of the inner race to measure any movement. And if there is radial expansion, how much would likely be within the bearing's acceptable operating range, if any?
And, if there is an acceptable level of expansion of the inner race, is it even possible to achieve without stripping out the threads of the center bolt or that of the wedge?
Also, is it "possible" that if the wedge were to be expanded to even the maximum dimension where it would either cause the inner race to exceed the manufacturer's interference specification, or the point just before the center bolt's threads would strip, could the wedge itself spin within the shaft?
This seems unlikely, as the entire wedge assembly has very little mass, and what mass there is is contained within, and close to, the shaft's centerline. Still, if the shaft's rotational forces, both accelerating and decelerating, were to cause the wedge to slip within the shaft, what would happen to the wedge assembly? Where could it move to, and would it interfere with any other components?
Wow. Save yourself all the stress and just don't get one and ride yours stock so you can sleep at night. Sarcasm.. Lol
 
Last edited:
For what it's worth, and for some reason, the Cat engineers specified that track shaft bearing with a "C3" fit which is typically used for bearings that will be pressed on (thereby expanding slightly the inner race and thereby using up some of the internal clearance of the bearing). As we all know, this bearing is not pressed onto shaft nor pressed into caliper housing. Another chance to ask what Cat "engineers" were thinking (we'll add that to the long list).
As Travis suggests, install the saver just tight enough to hold bearing in place. IMO, that will not even come close to radially preloading this C3 bearing.
 
For what it's worth, and for some reason, the Cat engineers specified that track shaft bearing with a "C3" fit which is typically used for bearings that will be pressed on (thereby expanding slightly the inner race and thereby using up some of the internal clearance of the bearing). As we all know, this bearing is not pressed onto shaft nor pressed into caliper housing. Another chance to ask what Cat "engineers" were thinking (we'll add that to the long list).
As Travis suggests, install the saver just tight enough to hold bearing in place. IMO, that will not even come close to radially preloading this C3 bearing.
I had to press my bearing out of the caliper housing and press the new one in.
 


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