Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

[ROCKERDAN]

Only thing that happens if locked up tight when installing new, is you may get a rotor slightly out which makes the brake lever pulse a tad. This I know after I loctited my bearing on. Within a few rides it went away.

I would not be worried about torquing it loosely, I would be worried about it not tight enough, and bearing still spinning. I feel like if the sled is entirely together and just adding the wedge, torque it down plenty IMO. I went with 40-45 ft. lbs.

Dan

 

[jonlafon1]

Only thing that happens if locked up tight when installing new, is you may get a rotor slightly out which makes the brake lever pulse a tad. This I know after I loctited my bearing on. Within a few rides it went away.

I would not be worried about torquing it loosely, I would be worried about it not tight enough, and bearing still spinning. I feel like if the sled is entirely together and just adding the wedge, torque it down plenty IMO. I went with 40-45 ft. lbs.

Dan

Thoughts for torque on a new shaft and bearing? I was thinking 40? I have not installed mine yet but I did a little investigating. Get this > the dealer put anti seize on the shaft and then put bearing on! Surprising it was actually tight on the shaft. Lol

 

[FrozenTows4]

Only thing that happens if locked up tight when installing new, is you may get a rotor slightly out which makes the brake lever pulse a tad. This I know after I loctited my bearing on. Within a few rides it went away.

I would not be worried about torquing it loosely, I would be worried about it not tight enough, and bearing still spinning. I feel like if the sled is entirely together and just adding the wedge, torque it down plenty IMO. I went with 40-45 ft. lbs.

Dan

One thing that we don't want to do is begin to expand the inner race as well.
That's why the torque will be different for a lot of folks. Procedure is explained in the video.
If you want it locked, then torque so it's just locked.
If you want it snug, then torque until it's just snug.

This is a brand new mod that we know nothing about. A year from now we'll all know more.

 

[Fast]

Only thing that happens if locked up tight when installing new, is you may get a rotor slightly out which makes the brake lever pulse a tad. This I know after I loctited my bearing on. Within a few rides it went away.

I would not be worried about torquing it loosely, I would be worried about it not tight enough, and bearing still spinning. I feel like if the sled is entirely together and just adding the wedge, torque it down plenty IMO. I went with 40-45 ft. lbs.

Dan

Time will tell i set mine to 35 lbs brand new shaft and bearing, anyone confirm that 35lbs locks it tight when brand new?

 

[Turboflash]

I helped put 2 together w all new parts. 35 seemed good.

 

[hibshman25]

After reading through these posts I have come to realization that there may be an issue with the current design. I think rotor still needs to wiggle on the splines or there is a good chance he tunnel will flex due to a shaft that is not perfectly true. When I discussed machining the flats on the end with my machinist he did not make the part any longer. When the lock gets pulled out of shaft so the flats are exposed the expansion gets closer to the splines. If torqued too hard we run the risk of locking down the rotor.

With flats exposed on a test setup here once I get to 40lbs the rotor gets tight. If I slide it in the whole way til washer hits shaft then torque it the splines are not expanded and rotor still wiggles.

By all means I will stand by all that have been sold and send out updated parts if need be once I get a handle on it.

For now I need feedback. Those that have installed does your rotor still have wiggle on the splines? If rotor does not wiggle run the sled on a stand and watch the tunnel to see if it wiggles back and forth. I need some others to verify if a locked down rotor yields tunnel movement or if my test set up this summer was just a fluke.

 

[02ViperMody44]

Thanks Travis for keeping up on this, and hopefully you can perfect what needs, or what you think needs to be done, to put everyone at ease.

 

[KnappAttack]

After reading through these posts I have come to realization that there may be an issue with the current design. I think rotor still needs to wiggle on the splines or there is a good chance he tunnel will flex due to a shaft that is not perfectly true. When I discussed machining the flats on the end with my machinist he did not make the part any longer. When the lock gets pulled out of shaft so the flats are exposed the expansion gets closer to the splines. If torqued too hard we run the risk of locking down the rotor.

With flats exposed on a test setup here once I get to 40lbs the rotor gets tight. If I slide it in the whole way til washer hits shaft then torque it the splines are not expanded and rotor still wiggles.

By all means I will stand by all that have been sold and send out updated parts if need be once I get a handle on it.

For now I need feedback. Those that have installed does your rotor still have wiggle on the splines? If rotor does not wiggle run the sled on a stand and watch the tunnel to see if it wiggles back and forth. I need some others to verify if a locked down rotor yields tunnel movement or if my test set up this summer was just a fluke.

IMO it would have to be longer then as to not make the brake disc "stick". I assumed when you installed the flats on the end, they would have been added to the length to keep the pressure centered on the bearing only. I haven't installed mine yet as I haven't started the teardown and going thru the machine for winter.

 

[twyztid]

IMO it would have to be longer then as to not make the brake disc "stick". I assumed when you installed the flats on the end, they would have been added to the length to keep the pressure centered on the bearing only. I haven't installed mine yet as I haven't started the teardown and going thru the machine for winter.

I have not installed mine yet either but it sounds like I should wait until this is determined. My brother-in-law just ordered one today as well. It sounds like the body design was determined and then the flats were added later. If I understand correctly, when you keep the flats out of the shaft, it moves the main tension point closer to the brake splines than what was originally intended when the part was originally designed (before adding the flats). I think the flats are a good idea but the outer piece should be made longer to keep the pressure point in the same location as originally designed.

 

[jonlafon1]

Okay brand new shaft and bearing. Just installed mine at 40 pounds. My rotor still wiggles. I did not push in very far. So I still could get a 11/16 wrench on the inside piece. At the same time a 19 on bolt head. I had to use both or otherwise it would just spin inside drive shaft. Make sense to others?

 

[Turboflash]

Travis, as you know, inserting part into end of shaft such that one can still get a wrench on flats to hold it puts the contact points for the 3 fingers pretty much right in the center of where the bearing will sit (center-line of the inner race of the bearing). My belief is that it doesn't take much to hold the bearing inner race tight enough so shaft won't spin in it. To me, the contact point doesn't have to be centered on bearing. It could be moved inward more and still function just fine and that would move the pressure points away from splined area.

 

[hibshman25]

Okay brand new shaft and bearing. Just installed mine at 40 pounds. My rotor still wiggles. I did not push in very far. So I still could get a 11/16 wrench on the inside piece. At the same time a 19 on bolt head. I had to use both or otherwise it would just spin inside drive shaft. Make sense to others?

How many miles on your sled? My test set up had 700 miles so splines and shaft dont have much wear. They get more slop with miles. Maybe sleds with low mikes will need to recess it in farther.

The flats are only really needed to get the wedge seated initially. Once it starts to bite the assembly can be tapped inward with a mallet and block of wood and then tightened more.

 

[twyztid]

How many miles on your sled? My test set up had 700 miles so splines and shaft dont have much wear. They get more slop with miles. Maybe sleds with low mikes will need to recess it in farther.

The flats are only really needed to get the wedge seated initially. Once it starts to bite the assembly can be tapped inward with a mallet and block of wood and then tightened more.

Sounds like a good candidate for a cheapy wrench that is ground to a thin profile to hold the flats. The assembly could be installed further in then. What size are the flats? I don't have my assembly handy at the moment.

 

[jonlafon1]

How many miles on your sled? My test set up had 700 miles so splines and shaft dont have much wear. They get more slop with miles. Maybe sleds with low mikes will need to recess it in farther.

The flats are only really needed to get the wedge seated initially. Once it starts to bite the assembly can be tapped inward with a mallet and block of wood and then tightened more.

7200 miles.

 

[Sevey]

Sounds like a good candidate for a cheapy wrench that is ground to a thin profile to hold the flats. The assembly could be installed further in then. What size are the flats? I don't have my assembly handy at the moment.

A thin bicycle wrench would work. Finding an 11/16 may be fun. Does this swop with 17mm easily? That is a common size used in bikes.

MS