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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock


Not sure what you mean by "move?" Bearings on both sides fit tight (OD of bearing) into respective housings so they're not going to move there. Then for ID, the track shaft slips into bearings on each side which we know is a huge problem on brake side. IF one does nothing to change anything using stock parts, the brake-side bearing ID does move on track shaft. With BOP wedge, it doesn't move. The track shaft does not seem to spin inside the chain-case side bearing.
Both stock bearings have a C3 fit which means they have higher than standard internal clearance. This does allow the ID to move around a little with respect to the OD.
 
Can you provide proof of this?
I find this very hard to believe. The cross shaft for suspension is mounted solid in the tunnel just aft of the driveshaft.

My thought is they need to allow some clearance between the shaft and bearing for disassembly. The problem is they should have put a bearing in there with a steel collar with set screws so you can lock it to the shaft like the old polaris sleds I wrenched on a few times. More cheap #*$&@ penny pinching . We pay a lot for these sleds. I dont mind the price going up if the quality stays the same but the quality is going down with the penny pinching along with the price increases. So for now I'm going w the BOP shaft saver
 
Can you provide proof of this?
I find this very hard to believe. The cross shaft for suspension is mounted solid in the tunnel just aft of the driveshaft.
I believe this too. No proof though. Lot of movement there though. That’s why bop wedge is good still allows movement taking strain off bearings.
 
I believe this too. No proof though. Lot of movement there though. That’s why bop wedge is good still allows movement taking strain off bearings.

When I install the barn of parts wedge thing mine will be tight enough that the bearing will not slide on shaft. Tightening the wedge will be the last thing done when driveshaft is installed. I dont want any tunnel pressure or binding on it.
Why install it of your going to let the bearing slide in and out? It will still spin on the shaft.
 
My thought is they need to allow some clearance between the shaft and bearing for disassembly. The problem is they should have put a bearing in there with a steel collar with set screws so you can lock it to the shaft like the old polaris sleds I wrenched on a few times. More cheap #*$&@ penny pinching . We pay a lot for these sleds. I dont mind the price going up if the quality stays the same but the quality is going down with the penny pinching along with the price increases. So for now I'm going w the BOP shaft saver
Should be using Sealmaster Skwezloc bearings which center the shaft when the collar is tightened. Notice the ID of bearing has little slits/fingers that flex so when the collar is tightened, the shaft gets centered making for near zero runnout on shaft. I use these whenever I can. I always replaced those eccentric bearings with these because they center the shaft so much better.
 

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This just sounds like a recall more than anything..so will the replacement shaft i get replaced under warranty be different?
 
Should be using Sealmaster Skwezloc bearings which center the shaft when the collar is tightened. Notice the ID of bearing has little slits/fingers that flex so when the collar is tightened, the shaft gets centered making for near zero runnout on shaft. I use these whenever I can. I always replaced those eccentric bearings with these because they center the shaft so much better.

Yes that would be perfect!
 
The bearing is suppose to move to allow for tunnel flex

Maybe? Then why do all the others, including Arctic's earlier design, have locking collars?

Previous track shafts had Metal Protected bearings, not a sealed bearing, (and there is a difference) that could be greased.
Shaft was locked down, grease would ooze out under the tunnel by the shaft. A light wipe would form a protective barrier against the harsh environment.
Same with the jack shaft. Serviced seasonally, with a grease gun, and these would never, or very rarely, fail.

Now everyone has the sealed bearing thing going on. We're not alone.

And why is only the clutch side track shaft spinning? All other idlers have the same interference fit.
What track tension is all these spinners running?
Gone are the days of "just tight enough so it doesn't ratchet".

Yamaha just doesn't seem that enthused about the snowmobile segment anymore.
Remember, if it wasn't for Arctic, the best we would have is an Apex.
 
Maybe? Then why do all the others, including Arctic's earlier design, have locking collars?

Remember, if it wasn't for Arctic, the best we would have is an Apex.

And the Apex would still be better than most these days. ;-)
 
When I install the barn of parts wedge thing mine will be tight enough that the bearing will not slide on shaft. Tightening the wedge will be the last thing done when driveshaft is installed. I dont want any tunnel pressure or binding on it.
Why install it of your going to let the bearing slide in and out? It will still spin on the shaft.
It needs to be just tight enough that the race turns with it but that it still slides under slight force like when I peened mine. Is easily done since adjustment is very fine. Should have to push caliper on with hand.
 
It needs to be just tight enough that the race turns with it but that it still slides under slight force like when I peened mine. Is easily done since adjustment is very fine. Should have to push caliper on with hand.

My caliper will already be slid on when I torque mine. I will test fit the torque on wedge before final assembly. I want my bearing race locked on shaft.
 
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My caliper will already be slid on when I torque mine. I will test fit the torque on wedge before final assembly. I want my bearing race locked on shaft.


Same here. No reason for it to "move" or "flex" once everything is bolted into place.

Ski Doo has a much better design where the bearing is pressed on the shaft and the housing is ultra snug on the outer race. Doo has a much better design. Can't imagine after all these years Cat has not redesigned this POS driveline.
 
Your call. At 15000 hard miles and going on 6 seasons with it I know for a fact this chassis flexes and flexes alot right in that area. Thats why I always advise people to check the bolts and nuts holding the chaincase to tunnel. They arent loosening from vibration. Its your guys call but having made it as long as mine has I will do what works for me. Thats whats nice about this Wedge from BOP. It should satisfy all except severely worn ones. Ride On.
 


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