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Barn of Parts Driveshaft Saver....Bearing Lock

Well it’s funny that this stuff is being talked about. I wasn’t really sure how far to insert the BOP fix into shaft. I figured the fingers being centered on bearing race would be the ticket. Not really sure it’s going to matter how far actually. What are we talking here ? Couple 3-4 mm. I realize if it puts to much pressure on rotor that could be a issue. But I guess it’s hard to Figure at this point. Damn good design and I feel it’s not going to make much difference how far it’s installed into shaft. I think the torque spec could be a bigger factor. Just my 2 cents at this point.
 

After reading through these posts I have come to realization that there may be an issue with the current design. I think rotor still needs to wiggle on the splines or there is a good chance he tunnel will flex due to a shaft that is not perfectly true. When I discussed machining the flats on the end with my machinist he did not make the part any longer. When the lock gets pulled out of shaft so the flats are exposed the expansion gets closer to the splines. If torqued too hard we run the risk of locking down the rotor.

With flats exposed on a test setup here once I get to 40lbs the rotor gets tight. If I slide it in the whole way til washer hits shaft then torque it the splines are not expanded and rotor still wiggles.

By all means I will stand by all that have been sold and send out updated parts if need be once I get a handle on it.

For now I need feedback. Those that have installed does your rotor still have wiggle on the splines? If rotor does not wiggle run the sled on a stand and watch the tunnel to see if it wiggles back and forth. I need some others to verify if a locked down rotor yields tunnel movement or if my test set up this summer was just a fluke.
I installed mine last weekend and my rotor is solid no movement should i loosen it off and slide it in all the way?
 
I installed mine last weekend and my rotor is solid no movement should i loosen it off and slide it in all the way?
What torque ?? And I’m guessing if you have no rotor play yes you should adjust. Try changing torque? Does it free up rotor. Might have to pkay with it a bit. IMO that rotor needs wiggle. Not answering for Travis. Didn’t see you were asking him. My bad.
 
IMO it would have to be longer then as to not make the brake disc "stick". I assumed when you installed the flats on the end, they would have been added to the length to keep the pressure centered on the bearing only. I haven't installed mine yet as I haven't started the teardown and going thru the machine for winter.
35lbs Now that i think about it i tried moving the rotor before installing the wedge and it was solid,plus the dealer said the new drive shafts are 1/8" narrower than previous can anyone confirm this?
 
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What torque ?? And I’m guessing if you have no rotor play yes you should adjust. Try changing torque? Does it free up rotor. Might have to pkay with it a bit. IMO that rotor needs wiggle. Not answering for Travis. Didn’t see you were asking him. My bad.
There was no rotor play when i installed it,i tried moving it before putting the wedge in and it was tight,brand new shaft and bearing plus dealer had to ratchet strap the tunnel to get it in,is there any play in the 2020's since the shaft is 1/8" narrower now?
 
Been doing some more experimenting with the placement of the device in the shaft this morning. One thing I noticed is if I place the device farther in the shaft it takes even less torque to snug up the bearing. The devices as made will still function just fine. I may have overreacted yesterday, but I would rather be conservative and up front about any concerns. I will be making an updated video later today to discuss everything.
 
Great progress here by Travis and keeping up with the questions. I would think if you have a tight rotor, it will show up in your left hand when pulling on brake lever for first ride you will feel it pulse. If so, I would loosen and tap the device inward some.

I think the larger issue is not all shafts have the same wear, and not even new shafts are all gonna be the same, so there is no perfect torque number for everyone. Basically we just want the damn bearing to not spin on shaft.

Dan
 
Been doing some more experimenting with the placement of the device in the shaft this morning. One thing I noticed is if I place the device farther in the shaft it takes even less torque to snug up the bearing. The devices as made will still function just fine. I may have overreacted yesterday, but I would rather be conservative and up front about any concerns. I will be making an updated video later today to discuss everything.
You mean insert it to the washer or could we leave it out 1/8", should we still tighten it up to 35lbs with brand new axle and bearing?
 
Appears the most correct answer is to lightly tighten, using the flats, until the devise will no longer spin inside the shaft.
Tap until the washer engages the shaft flush. No flats exposed. Torque until the bearing is snug & rotor still floats.
Is this correct? You eluded to this, but did not demonstrate in video.

To me, it makes sense to expand shaft at the bearing race. Not forward or behind.
 
Installed my wedge last night. Couldn’t have been easier. Torqued to 35’lbs and still have rotor slop. Pushed it all the way into the shaft after initial wedge engagement. 2 easy
 
Installed my wedge last night. Couldn’t have been easier. Torqued to 35’lbs and still have rotor slop. Pushed it all the way into the shaft after initial wedge engagement. 2 easy
If a replacement shaft is not readily available , I will buy these and give to my dealer to install , on the old axle ,
Did you just install a new bearing on the old shaft , with no maintenance to the shaft ?
 
If a replacement shaft is not readily available , I will buy these and give to my dealer to install , on the old axle ,
Did you just install a new bearing on the old shaft , with no maintenance to the shaft ?

No, I installed on my ‘19 SRX. No evidence of bearing spinning. 5100kms
 


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